Turn Fan On By Switch
06-17-2010, 01:45 AM
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Turn Fan On By Switch
My car seems to get hot quick now, I would set the fan to come on faster with hptuners but my guy is out. So I want to hook the fan up by a switch. Has anyone done this? Anyone can help me?
06-17-2010, 02:01 AM
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Yup, had many threads about my problem and can't seem to figure it out so this is my resort to fix it now. It's in the 200 's sometimes but ppl says its normal but I don't like it that hot
06-17-2010, 02:11 AM
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06-17-2010, 09:51 AM
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It's not worth messing with, just wait until your friend gets back and put it in the tune... If it's happening in stop and go that's ok, but if it's that high at cruising them you have issues
06-17-2010, 06:18 PM
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185-188*F is target normal.
225*F is getting a bit high.
Recall, the PCM isn't dumb... if it thinks its too hot, it will kick the fans on, and cool it down in a hurry.
225*F is getting a bit high.
Recall, the PCM isn't dumb... if it thinks its too hot, it will kick the fans on, and cool it down in a hurry.
06-17-2010, 09:14 PM
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06-17-2010, 09:41 PM
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lol...very easy to do
here...source
Well last summer I did a complete schematic and instructions for a rewire in order to be able to control the fans and CAC pump with a dash mounted switch.(for both the Redline and the SS/SC) It's posted over in the Redline forums (the upload cap over here prohibits PDF files larger than 19k for what ever reason)
BUT just jumpering the 4 relays (30 to 87) Low, High, Cool/SerPa and Intercooler relays is a LOT easier and now with HPT you can just remap the codes so they dont set.(The Cool/SerPa relay is required so the fans wont run in series at 1/2 speed. If your booster pack is low you can pull that one and cut the current in 1/2.
Make sure you only use FUSED jumpers so that if you make an accidental mistake it wont burn out the internal bussing INSIDE the Fuse block. (I use 20awg fusible link wire)
I also use a knife switch on the battery ground so I can use a booster pack in the trunk to run the fans on full and and CAC pump between rounds and not kill the vehicle battery. Works good you can just close the trunk , lock your doors and go have a hot dog while you fans and pump run full-bore to cool your temps. Then when you get deep into the stage lanes CLOSE the knife switch REMOVE the booster pack, and once you start-up your pump and fans will come on immediately anyways if you have HP Tuners. Pulling the lamps fuses is optional, but if your using HPT a lot (and have the key ON) the lights are a major draw. (Of course not such a good idea at night)
Works awesome - I've got 5 or 6 cars rigged up this way
WopOnTour
BUT just jumpering the 4 relays (30 to 87) Low, High, Cool/SerPa and Intercooler relays is a LOT easier and now with HPT you can just remap the codes so they dont set.(The Cool/SerPa relay is required so the fans wont run in series at 1/2 speed. If your booster pack is low you can pull that one and cut the current in 1/2.
Make sure you only use FUSED jumpers so that if you make an accidental mistake it wont burn out the internal bussing INSIDE the Fuse block. (I use 20awg fusible link wire)
I also use a knife switch on the battery ground so I can use a booster pack in the trunk to run the fans on full and and CAC pump between rounds and not kill the vehicle battery. Works good you can just close the trunk , lock your doors and go have a hot dog while you fans and pump run full-bore to cool your temps. Then when you get deep into the stage lanes CLOSE the knife switch REMOVE the booster pack, and once you start-up your pump and fans will come on immediately anyways if you have HP Tuners. Pulling the lamps fuses is optional, but if your using HPT a lot (and have the key ON) the lights are a major draw. (Of course not such a good idea at night)
Works awesome - I've got 5 or 6 cars rigged up this way
WopOnTour
Just buy 4 "inline" 10A fuse holders or 1ft of 20awg fusible link wire from ANY automotive parts supply and solder the correct terminals on each end of the wire
I strongly recommend you use ONLY the correct Metripack 280 series male terminals when connecting these jumpers (the GM PN# is in the pic above), otherwise you risk permanent damage to the fuseblock.
Here's pics of a fully "jumped" fuseblock (using 20awg fusible link) and one of the "knife" switch or battery cut-off switch (with booster pack) installed at the battery as previously discussed.
Whenever you return to the pits...
1. Connect booster pack as shown
2. Open knife switch
When you're heading for your run
1. Close the knife switch
2. Remove booster pack
*If you want to temporarily disable the fans/pump (to work on the car for instance) you can pull the jumpers entirely or even just the "87" end of the wire. A switch is really unneccessary IMO as once your time at the track is done- just pull the jumpers and reinstall the relays
HTH
WopOnTour
I strongly recommend you use ONLY the correct Metripack 280 series male terminals when connecting these jumpers (the GM PN# is in the pic above), otherwise you risk permanent damage to the fuseblock.
Here's pics of a fully "jumped" fuseblock (using 20awg fusible link) and one of the "knife" switch or battery cut-off switch (with booster pack) installed at the battery as previously discussed.
Whenever you return to the pits...
1. Connect booster pack as shown
2. Open knife switch
When you're heading for your run
1. Close the knife switch
2. Remove booster pack
*If you want to temporarily disable the fans/pump (to work on the car for instance) you can pull the jumpers entirely or even just the "87" end of the wire. A switch is really unneccessary IMO as once your time at the track is done- just pull the jumpers and reinstall the relays
HTH
WopOnTour
here...source
Got it replaced 2 weeks ago and its perfect now it runs about 185 ....
06-17-2010, 11:42 PM
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See I had a thread on the ac. A few months back i wrecked my front end into some large rocks. It broke my ac condensor, leaked green **** witch is freon. Bought a new one but didnt put freon in it yet bbut now when I turn the ac on the fan doesn't turn on. Dont know why, shouldn't be the freon not causing the fan not to kick it. Idk anymore
06-18-2010, 07:50 AM
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See I had a thread on the ac. A few months back i wrecked my front end into some large rocks. It broke my ac condensor, leaked green **** witch is freon. Bought a new one but didnt put freon in it yet bbut now when I turn the ac on the fan doesn't turn on. Dont know why, shouldn't be the freon not causing the fan not to kick it. Idk anymore
secondly, after you have an opening in your ac system you HAVE to (you really have no choice) to get the system vacuumed and refilled by someone with one of those big machines. I just found this out 2 weeks ago when swapping out my s10 condenser, added 2 cans of r134, and nothing. brought it in to work to let the mechanic check it out and he explained that the compressor cannot compress air, so the pressure will shoot up so high with air in the system that it will cause the high pressure switch to activate and keep it from working. either that or because there is no vacuum in my system, that it could not suck the r134 into it to begin with and it was too low.
when he hooked mine up to the machine and filled it with just a few ounces, the psi level shot past 400psi instantly then kicked off and he said about 250 is normal. after he ran the cycle on the machine to suck out the air, and refilled it, it's worked perfect
06-18-2010, 05:35 PM
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the green stuff isn't freon, it's dye in the r134.
secondly, after you have an opening in your ac system you HAVE to (you really have no choice) to get the system vacuumed and refilled by someone with one of those big machines. I just found this out 2 weeks ago when swapping out my s10 condenser, added 2 cans of r134, and nothing. brought it in to work to let the mechanic check it out and he explained that the compressor cannot compress air, so the pressure will shoot up so high with air in the system that it will cause the high pressure switch to activate and keep it from working. either that or because there is no vacuum in my system, that it could not suck the r134 into it to begin with and it was too low.
when he hooked mine up to the machine and filled it with just a few ounces, the psi level shot past 400psi instantly then kicked off and he said about 250 is normal. after he ran the cycle on the machine to suck out the air, and refilled it, it's worked perfect
secondly, after you have an opening in your ac system you HAVE to (you really have no choice) to get the system vacuumed and refilled by someone with one of those big machines. I just found this out 2 weeks ago when swapping out my s10 condenser, added 2 cans of r134, and nothing. brought it in to work to let the mechanic check it out and he explained that the compressor cannot compress air, so the pressure will shoot up so high with air in the system that it will cause the high pressure switch to activate and keep it from working. either that or because there is no vacuum in my system, that it could not suck the r134 into it to begin with and it was too low.
when he hooked mine up to the machine and filled it with just a few ounces, the psi level shot past 400psi instantly then kicked off and he said about 250 is normal. after he ran the cycle on the machine to suck out the air, and refilled it, it's worked perfect
06-18-2010, 06:20 PM
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if the a/c compressor doesn't kick on, the fan should not kick on either. i'm pretty sure that is correct but on monday if you need i can log into alldata and pull up the schematics to verify it
p.s. it's not freon anymore, it's r134
p.s. it's not freon anymore, it's r134
06-19-2010, 08:59 PM
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