SSilverSS

Hello all, I started a thread a couple months ago about my plans to throw in a gen3 LSJ and well, after a month and a half of waiting on parts I let the thread die. After getting the engine broken in a good 1500 miles I ended saying screw it and threw on a ZZP turbo swap kit with the s256et.

Unfortunately It will not run at all. It will revv up, go lean, sputter and die. Code p0107 is the only code. Double checked lines via ZZP instructions numerous times. Cannot find a damn boost or vaccuum leak anywhere. Also cannot find any information via the search bar ??

Could It be possible we have the wrong MAP sensor plugged into the intake? We have the sensor from the blower plugged in


I must be doing something wrong here. I was able to keep it running long enough to run a scan I hope one of you can help me or point me in the direction of someone who can.

I am brand new to HPT so I hope the scan shows enough information.

Thanks

umrdyldo

iTrader: (1)

Do you have a copy of your tune file so we can see?

Maybe your tune file has the wrong MAP settings or something.

Blairwolf

iTrader: (1)

The MAP sensor is the sensor under the blower on the intake manifold. The sensor in the blower is the inlet pressure sensor and its not used for a turbo swap.

SSilverSS

We had the blower inlet pressure sensor plugged into the back of the manifold. Rookie mistake but hey its our first LSJ turbo swap and i guess we just were rushing lol

Swapping it now and going to see how it runs. Hopefully well. Will be running open downpipe for a couple days

Vids later stay tuned

SSilverSS

So the car runs now but idles like ****. NO codes. Thinking it may be in the tune but i cant get a good scan to send zzp because im having issues with how its boosting.

Seeing 20 plus psi around 4000 rpm

not cool. What should I check next? I doubt having the open downpipe would make it overboost over twice the wastegate spring. I can hear the wastegate opening around nine psi but then boost shoots up

Thanks

63 Nova SS

iTrader: (3)

Well the last thing you want to do is get into boost if the tune isn't right. If you go too lean you will waste the motor that you just spent money on. Start out with the basics and try to get it idling so you can send that file off. Once you determine if there are fueling issues or timing, at idle then work your way up to a smooth pull in 1st or second gear not getting into boost, then worry about how it runs with boost. Don't get into boost until the tune is sorted out unless you want to throw another motor in it.

SSilverSS

It will run decent now besides a random stall here and there at lights. Runs super smooth when cruising/accelerating lightly but bounces everywhere at idle. Im completely new to HPT and having to learn the hard way.

Getting some exhaust put on in the morning then Im gonna have to search on how to tweak the base tune since ZZP is taking a while to get back to me.

The reason i have spent seven grand with them the past two months is because I thought they offered tech support with their kits. . . but i understand that they really cant diagnose the car without it being there

But yea I def don't want to blow this fresh engine. . . Gonna check the turbo LSJ thread and see if maybe someone can help me out with my tune.

Wideband is dancing all over the place but again that could be from the open downpipe

Then figure out why I am overboosting

SSilverSS

Bump got exhaust car runs worse. Something has to be hooked up wrong. Cant really drive it because it is going so lean. HPT is showing KR while its idling.


its still overboosting with just a vacuum line from the manifold to the lower port on wastegate.


And the fuel tank is leaking


About to drive the car into a lake and buy another trans am

Sharkey

iTrader: (1)

first off, stay out of boost till the tune is sorted and the car runs and drives decent.

second, make sure your boost signal to the wastegate isnt pinched and is in good shape. if your running a boost control, eliminate it for now. if not, id pull the wastegate apart and see what springs are in it, and change as needed to get the boost in check (the wastegate should have come with some spring options and a chart).

can you tell us more about your setup? what injectors, throttle body, etc. can you post your tune file and a log file (for some reason i cant open the log you posted), that would help. id bet on most of your issues (aside from the fuel leak) being tune related, i wouldnt trust a zzp canned tune as far as i could throw it. once you get that fixed if you could take a data log of it idling hot, and some driving around out of boost, someone here might be able to point you in the right direction.

SSilverSS

I know I know but i have to boost to see if my WG is working lol


Didnt have the ports plugged in the TIAL wastegate. Causing the vacuum leak AND the overboost.
It was causing the rough idle as well as not allowing the spring to be pushed upwards opening the wastegate fully.

ZZPs instructions say to ignore all other ports on the wastegate so me being new to turbo setups did just that lol

However when I overboosted it I must have blown an exhaust gasket.Im getting a very loud Ticking at idle only and the wideband jumps to lean if I blip the throttle lightly. fine just driving down the block though.

Im hoping the leak is at the v band downpipe but it could be the manifold or turbo gasket . . . .sigh

But at least i didnt blow it up

once I get the leak solved Its going on the dyno but thats a 2 hour drive from me.

63 Nova SS

iTrader: (3)

You are going to have to try and at least get the idle and part throttle issue better before driving 2 hours. If you are getting knock at idle that's not good.
I still don't understand why you would test the boost without it being dialed in farther than what it is. Over boost on a lean engine can kill it quickly.
Gas leak can be from the lines at the tank or in front of the rear drivers wheel. Both can happen.

SSilverSS

The drive ability issues were solved by plugging the ports in the wastegate. Car runs good now and boosts fine. Fuel was leaking from the dang filler neck hose.

Another thing I am confused about is if the manual boost controller is hooked up, it has a huge vaccuum leak due to the top of the wastegate having a hole in it.

The wastegate instructions say to vent the top port to air, so im afraid plugging it will prevent the wastegate from opening.

Im actually just gonna have tim from zzp tune me via hpt for now.

Sharkey

iTrader: (1)

there is 2 seperate chambers in the wastegate, and there should not be a vacuum leak out the top section.

what type of manual boost controller do you have? is it the one zzp has on their site? if so, it hooks to the port on the top of the wastegate, there is no way you can have a vacuum leak.

what you need to remember with your wastegate is it has 2 seperate chambers, one below the bolt flange (bottom chamber) and one above (top chamber) the bottom chamber gets hooked straight to your boost source, in this case the manifold. all other holes in the bottom chamber need to be plugged so its sealed. if your not using a boost controller (or a bleed style controller like a turbosmart boost T) you leave at least one port in the top chamber open, this allows the chamber to vent air. if your using a boost controller, such as the one zzp lists on their site or an electronic one, you need to plug all the ports in the top chamber and have it hooked to the boost controller. maybe this diagram will help.



like i said, if your using the top chamber, it must be sealed so it holds pressure. the idea is by putting regulated pressure into the top of the wastegate it increases the about of pressure it takes to open the wastegate. it makes it like adding a stronger spring.

Sharkey

iTrader: (1)

as far as i can tell your kit would have a tial MV wastegate. follow what it says in the instructions

SSilverSS

With the boost controller hooked up to the top chamber, AND the air ports plugged. The wastegate does not open at all.

With the top port open venting to atmosphere, AND the boost controller hooked up, there is a vacuum leak because the line coming from the boost controller is essentially venting to atmosphere also.

Thanks for the diagrams though. I've decided to say screw the boost controller and just run the spring.

ZZP says that the OEM gasket will work with the turbo manifold. It DOES NOT. OR at least no one can get mine to seal I have swapped it twice (actually by a shop) and it just doesn't seal. I had the studs/nuts replaced as well. It ticks super loud every time. What in hell are we doing wrong?

So now I will have to wait another 5 days to get a zzp gasket or a SAAB gasket.

Sharkey

iTrader: (1)

the idea of that style manual boost controller (or even an electronic boost controller) is to put boost into the top chamber to add to the spring pressure, so if you have a port open in the top chamber is negating the whole manual boost control because it cant add pressure, as well as gives you a vacuum leak.

ive never really been a fan of that style manual boost controller, its essentially an air compressor regulator. you cant have them turned down all the way because it doesnt allow the air in the chamber to escape when the gate opens, this may be your issue. they also dont have a very fine adjustment when your trying to increase boost a small amount. you may have better luck with it if you reduce the spring pressure in the wastegate, that would give you a larger window with the controller. alternatively, if your wanting a boost controller id recommend a turbosmart boost T. we use them at our shop lots, they always work very well.

you can also just play with wastegate springs. being the wastegate is on the top of the manifold its not the end of the world. just figure out something that works to hold the gate together while you take the screws out, something like a c-clamp hooked around the manifold. as you get the tuning sorted, increase the gate pressure another 3 psi and retune till you get it where you want it.

Blairwolf

iTrader: (1)

The very top of the wastegate should have a plug in it just to block off the port, i'll snap a pick of mine when I get home. And I also have to replace the exhaust manifold gasket because the oem one wont seal.

SSilverSS

I just ordered a SAAB MS97128. Hoping it will work so I can get this thing tuned well! SMH wish zzp had sent me the correct one with the swap kit. Spent a week now trying to figure out why it wont seal.

Are you running the new style stainless ecotec turbo manifold from ZZP by any chance ?

Blairwolf

iTrader: (1)

Not sure what style mine would be. I purchased the kit in august last year.