2.2L L61 Performance Tech 16 valve 145 hp EcoTec with 155 lb-ft of torque

07cobaltguy's Re-Re-Build Thread!!!

Old 11-20-2011, 08:27 PM
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07cobaltguy's Re-Re-Build Thread!!!

So, as most of you know i recently found out the limitations of the stock bottom end of the L61. It tossed a rod on my way home from work while rolling into the throttle. I am going to be updating the original post during the process. I want to use this as reference material for guys looking to do a build, down to prices, links, and information that is commonly asked for.

UPDATE: Goals, Are 400+whp and rev to 8K RPM

Here is a list of the build parts that I plan on using:

ZZP Fuel Pump Re-Wire- $29
ZZP 82# Valvesprings- $290
ZZP Neutral Balance Shafts- $270
Wiesco Forged Pistons
Eagle Forged Rods-^ $750 (packaged with pistons)
ARP Studs- $135 (From ZZP)
Cometic HG- $95 (From TTR)
Hardend Oil Pump Gears (still sourcing treating)
ARP Flywheel bolts- $25 (From ZZP)

Build total: $1594

Car already has on it:

3" TBE
2.4 Intake Manifold
78lb Injectors
57 trim turbo
Vulcan turbo Manifold (dont recommend it to anyone)
Custom Intake for the turbo
Custom Charge Pipe
Ebay Intercooler

I have started the teardown, only took a little over an hour to strip the car and basically get the engine ready to drop out. I have a few pics of the teardown:





And here is one of the damage (what i know of now):



I get to drive this in the meantime, No complaints here lol:


UPDATE 12/8/11:

Well here are some pics from pulling the motor. I havent gotten the bottom end apart yet but i did get the head off. The valves in cylinder #1 are bent from the piston free floating in the cylinder. Luckly i have another head that i can canabalize for parts.

Also i am going to make a few changes and additions to the parts list. I am talking to ZZP about their LE5 clutch kit since my Spec clutch is now in the landfill.

Anyways on to the pics:












Last edited by 07cobaltguy; 12-08-2011 at 06:28 PM.
Old 11-20-2011, 08:48 PM
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Sub'd, I need to see your process I want to built my motor too. Sorry to thread jack but do u have pics of your charge pipes I wanna change the set up of my charge pipes
Old 11-20-2011, 08:52 PM
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kingsford and budlight. nice haha
Old 11-20-2011, 08:53 PM
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sub'dddididid Cant wait to see the finished product!
Old 11-20-2011, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by CobaltLs505
Sub'd, I need to see your process I want to built my motor too. Sorry to thread jack but do u have pics of your charge pipes I wanna change the set up of my charge pipes
Anything your looking for specifically as far as pictures?

Originally Posted by EXsoccer1921
kingsford and budlight. nice haha
Yeah i didnt notice till you mentioned that lol. Thats left overs from summer lol.
Old 11-20-2011, 09:38 PM
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UPDATED first post with goals of the build.
Old 11-20-2011, 09:40 PM
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on the balance shafts. zzp released about a month or so ago a new stainless steel model with a stronger, longer life than the gmr's or any other balance shaft. you could also go with a balance shaft delete and run an electric water pump. faster revs and less load on the engine.
Old 11-20-2011, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by EXsoccer1921
on the balance shafts. zzp released about a month or so ago a new stainless steel model with a stronger, longer life than the gmr's or any other balance shaft. you could also go with a balance shaft delete and run an electric water pump. faster revs and less load on the engine.
I take it thats how you are running. Any issues with drivability with the E-pump?
Old 11-20-2011, 10:08 PM
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none at all. car stays cool all the time
Old 11-20-2011, 10:12 PM
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Like I want to change my ic piping. I just want to see pics of your ic piping set up
Old 11-21-2011, 06:33 AM
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Ok I will grab some when I get home. I can put it all together on the floor for you.
Old 11-21-2011, 11:15 AM
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good luck on the build. when i built mine it was a ton of headaches but glad i'm done with mine.

i am at the same goal as you of 400hp but with a blower.

you can check out my build thread.

went with
94lb dual valve springs
oversize valves
stage 2 n/a cams
ported head
stock head gasket
bates sleeves
bates hardened oil pump gears
bates neutral balance shafts
weisco 10:1 pistons
eagle rods
Old 11-21-2011, 11:50 AM
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How are those N/A cams working for you?I could imagine them having alot of overlap causing you to lose cylinder pressure from the blower but I don't know the specs on them.I bet they sound mean though,any vid clips?
Old 11-21-2011, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by EXsoccer1921
on the balance shafts. zzp released about a month or so ago a new stainless steel model with a stronger, longer life than the gmr's or any other balance shaft. you could also go with a balance shaft delete and run an electric water pump. faster revs and less load on the engine.
The other other option is that GMPP has a kit with a new chain that bypasses balance shafts but still hits the water pump. I think its fairly expensive though. The cheaper option for a delete is to just run the Level Zero Motorsports delete kit.
Old 11-21-2011, 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by 1LowLS
How are those N/A cams working for you?I could imagine them having alot of overlap causing you to lose cylinder pressure from the blower but I don't know the specs on them.I bet they sound mean though,any vid clips?
Fully built Cobalt 2.2 Idle - YouTube

here is what it sounds like with the tune vince gave us. he has the idle at like 1200rpms. trying to get it under 1k so it lopes better. its hard to do that with the 80lbs and 94lb valve springs.
Old 11-21-2011, 01:38 PM
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Sounds good!
Old 11-21-2011, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Leafydialupking
The other other option is that GMPP has a kit with a new chain that bypasses balance shafts but still hits the water pump. I think its fairly expensive though. The cheaper option for a delete is to just run the Level Zero Motorsports delete kit.
why would you get rid of the balance shafts only to keep a load on the chain from the water pump? doesn't make any sense. just get neutrals and be able to rev to 8k. or delete with an electric water pump and be able to rev to 8k and do it fast.
Old 11-21-2011, 05:08 PM
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SBUBD! is that a ss tb?
Old 11-21-2011, 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by riceburner
SBUBD! is that a ss tb?
Yes its a 07 TBSS i bought for my wife now i drive it.
Old 11-21-2011, 05:38 PM
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hahah funny how that works huh
Old 11-21-2011, 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Leafydialupking
The other other option is that GMPP has a kit with a new chain that bypasses balance shafts but still hits the water pump. I think its fairly expensive though. The cheaper option for a delete is to just run the Level Zero Motorsports delete kit.
Link?

Originally Posted by EXsoccer1921
why would you get rid of the balance shafts only to keep a load on the chain from the water pump? doesn't make any sense. just get neutrals and be able to rev to 8k. or delete with an electric water pump and be able to rev to 8k and do it fast.
Because E pumps are expensive? Other then that I don't know.
Old 11-21-2011, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 07cobaltguy
So, as most of you know i recently found out the limitations of the stock bottom end of the L61. It tossed a rod on my way home from work while rolling into the throttle. I am going to be updating the original post during the process. I want to use this as reference material for guys looking to do a build, down to prices, links, and information that is commonly asked for.

UPDATE: Goals, Are 400+whp and rev to 8K RPM

Here is a list of the build parts that I plan on using:

ZZP 82# Valvesprings
Neutral Balance Shafts (Still deciding vendor)
Wiesco Forged Pistons
Eagle Forged Rods
ARP Studs
Stock or Cometic HG (undecided)
Hardend Oil Pump Gears

Car already has on it:

3" TBE
2.4 Intake Manifold
78lb Injectors
57 trim turbo
Vulcan turbo Manifold (dont recommend it to anyone)
Custom Intake for the turbo
Custom Charge Pipe
Ebay Intercooler

I have started the teardown, only took a little over an hour to strip the car and basically get the engine ready to drop out. I have a few pics of the teardown:
What are you doing for the block?
Old 11-21-2011, 05:45 PM
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I still havent seen an e-pump thats as good as a mechanical one. I have a link to the regular delete kit but not the GM one.
Old 11-21-2011, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by ebristol
Because E pumps are expensive? Other then that I don't know.
Electric pump is only $299.

Originally Posted by Leafydialupking
I still havent seen an e-pump thats as good as a mechanical one. I have a link to the regular delete kit but not the GM one.
When i was at the track my coolant was never above 176*. and that was at the end of the pass. driving back to the pits it was already in the 160s, a few minutes of idling and i was back down to 153*.


ZZPerformance Electric Water Pump - YouTube
Old 11-21-2011, 05:56 PM
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Interesting. Did you leave your balance shafts in or put the block off bushings in?

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