Cylinder hone/deglaze-what grit-flex-hone
 

I have looked all around and cannot seam to find a consensus on what grit hone to use to deglaze and refurbish crosshatch pattern on cylinder wall in preparation for seating new rings that come with the 10:1 Wiseco pistons from TTR. Does anyone have any insight?

According to the recommended cylinder preparation guide in the Wiseco catalog, I think I am supposed to do an initial burn with 400 grit then plateau with 600 grit. But the instructions are for a fresh bore. I am trying to surface preparation on stock bore.

I will be using flex-hone ball hone which seems the hardest to screw up of all the methods. They are supposed to leave a plateau finish due to their construction so I don't know if the same grit suggestion applies. Every other "general" application seams to work well with 240 grit or 320 grit at the highest.

If anyone has any experience with this your feedback would be appreciated.

According to www.summitracing.com/parts/wis-8600xx my piston rings are:
Top ring-stainless steel-gas nitride facing
Second ring-cast iron-phosphate coated facing
Oil ring-stainless

After doing a lot of research from many different sources I have decided that I am going to use 320 grit Silicone Carbide 3.5" Flex-Hone form BRM.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cob...9c7e69f851.jpg

Here is the finished product with flex-hone 320 grit.

the purpose of honing is to break up any glazing on the cylinder walls. If you do too rough of a hone though, it can eat through your piston rings. If the piston manufacturer recommends 400 then 600, you'll be fine with those grits. The "General" applications are most likely for older engines which used different rings. In the SBC world, this application was the cast iron rings. Moly rings needed 400 or higher.

So you blew up already?

I haven't put my car back together yet. Still waiting on parts to get in.

I don't want to remove any more material than necessary. That is why I was wondering if the 2 pass was necessary. Would 600 grit by itself not leave deap enough valleys for oil retention in the cross-hatch pattern? Every flex-hone tutorial I could find they only used a single grit. I just don't want to over/under do it.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cob...7dc091eaf5.jpg

This is a picture of my untouched cylinder wall to give you an idea of what I'm working with. They all pretty much look the same.

You're overthinking it IMO. A flex hone isn't going to enlarge the bore too much. I'd hit it with what the manufacturer recommends. That would be a 400 first and then the 600. It's when you get into cutting stones you have to worry about digging too deep.