yea but are the jbp cams regrinds?

 

yes i believe so

 

or you can get cores

 

Camshafts are regrinds. There are no blanks available. We're working on that angle right now, but they are turning out to be very expensive. The LE5 has quite the different "tooling" for the gear hydraulic VVT system, so we have to make blanks.

At this point in time, we can only ask that customers provide their cams for regrinding.

 

setting up now for a dyno/tune, It will take me an extra week, but I dont want to pay twice

 

you can redline and it wont damage either, but if you have had a "Tune" and have raised you "Rev limitor" than you must get new springs or you risk floating a valve, at the same time JBP valve springs will make the stage 2 cams more agrressive

 

so we must send our first? or can we buy then install yours then send ours back?

 

I have to ask that as well, my car is all I have to drive. Also, how far can we take the limiter on stock springs? I read 7100 is when we start to float, so I stopped at 6900 with the tune. JBP, are these the stage 2 cams? If I bought the ferrea valve springs and retainers, would they hold up to 8-9K rpms? How far can I take the engine itself with those springs? Im shooting for at least 8000 by just changing cams and springs/retainers and the neutral balance shafts. Maybe a price quote on that too? (pm me, if you would)

 

hey! were goin for the same build,cool

 

hey me too, but im going with a different set of cams.

 

What cams are you going with? I wasn't aware of any others available yet for the LE5.

I'm in the market too, but would like to consider all of my options before I decide.

 

When you regrind a cam you are reducing the base circle, while increasing the lift. This is a recipe for increasing the angle (steepness?) of the acceleration and deceleration ramps, thus increasing the load on the valve springs, thereby reducing max rpm (valve float rpm.)

Simply put, an engine with a high performance regrind will have a lower rev limit than a stock cam - even a well designed cam, which JBP's obviously is. It's simple physics. High performance springs and a lighter/stronger valve train are always recommended if you want to get the most RPM/hp out of your new cams.

Ask JBP for specifics, but I think a 6900 rev limit is wise with the stock valve train.

 

With pushrod engines we compensate by using shorter push rods. With the OHC design, I'm not sure there's anywhere to take height out of the rocker pivot point. Some OHC designs you can do this with, others not.

The added angle also wears the rockers worse. going to full roller rockers is a good idea when they're available.

 

The hydraulic lifters will pump up to compensate for the small amount of material removed from the cam's base circle. That's not what I'm talking about. I'm talking about the additional "leverage" - for lack of a better word - required to open and close the valves at a quicker rate.

Since the valves open and close faster to remain open longer (so the engine can get more fuel) this puts extra load on the valve train. Thus, you are best served with lighter weight, stronger valves and retainers and stiffer springs allowing additional lift before coil bind.

I agree, better quality, affordable alloy rockers are sorely needed for our engine.

 

Its too bad everyone is so slow to market with parts for our cars. Cams, valve train, SUSPENSION...makes me start looking to the rising sun cars and products for their aftermarket support. Its too bad too, because the 2.4 with cams, valvetrain and I/H/E would be a formidable beast versus the new Civic Sis even with bolt ons while still remaining cheaper and able to fly under the radar.

 

so how much did it cost you total for parts, and labor to install everything?

 

you could have a shop custom grind cams for you to your specific specs. That's always an option.

 

Yes, you can specify the lift, duration and lobe centers, but the cam profile is where the magic is. You can have 2 cams with identical specs with regards to the above 3 parameters, and have them perform entirely differently. Plus, if you exceed the limits of what the ECU will allow, it may force you into limp mode, or worse.

You can make an educated guess compared to how similar cams with similar profiles compare in similar engines, but you would never know for sure until you built it and installed it. It would be an expensive trial and error process. I'd rather let the pros design and test my cam, so I know what I'm getting before I bolt it in. IMHO.

 

i never had my question answered we need to send in our cams before? or we buy theirs then send in our cores for a refund on some money?

 

g5mike, people need the info. COME BACK ASAP, WE NEED YOU! haha

 

LE5 cams are totally different than LSJ or L61 cams.

Here's the process:

1) Purchase the Triflow LE5 cams off the website: here
2) Purchase the camshaft core charge: here
3) Install the JBP cams
4) Return your old cams for the core to be refunded.

Done!

 

thank you

 

Right, the hydraulic lifter will compensate, but the resulting geometry is different than stock. To get the geometry back to stock you need to lower the rocker. On a pushrod engine you do that by shortening the pushrod and even milling the tops of the valves. That puts the rocker back to the same angle it was stock.

I fully agree that someone should make a good rocker for this engine. That would be a good addition even with stock cams (it would lighten the valvetrain and make it last longer).

 

im glad everything is finally working and all and cant wait to see the gains..

but i would be very careful because these cars already run VERY lean with just intakes and exhaust.

 

this is for Geoff at colt cams