BlilBT

I can tell you that My Intake Temps Never make it over 125 degrees! So running it thru the pump warm wont hurt it!

ItalianJoe1

iTrader: (10)

Also, you would want to have coolant go from the H/E directly to the Manifold to make sure you are getting the coolest temps possible for the coolant to cool the air. If you have the coolant heat up 5 degrees when passing from the H/E back to the pump and then up to the manifold, you have just added 5 degrees to your ITA2, which is much worse than running your I/C pump 5 degrees hotter.

Mase

I've heard of one guy blow his pump after doing the dual pass. This is why I am concerned.

And you're only assuming the pump increases the temps, I'll do some investigation on this.

chipmonk212121

I have an air ratchet ..... unless the air ratchet wont fit. but ill find a way!

ItalianJoe1

iTrader: (10)

Its not so much a matter of the pump itself increasing temps, more of a matter that all the hoses and pump are a longer length between H/E outlet and manifold inlet, and that means more time exposed to heat coming off of the engine, radiator, and such. Obviously, my numbers are just a guess, it may be so insignificant that you will not see a difference either way. I just doubt that drawing the warm coolant into the pump is any harder on it than drawing the cool coolant into the pump. The actual pump is separate from the motor, which is air cooled, so I doubt flow direction makes any difference on pump temps. Now if the guy that blew the pump installed his cores backwards... that added strain could cause a pump failure. Installer error....

distillion

good analysis, we pretty much kept the the flow jsut like stock since it made a lil more sense to do it this way rather than gms way at the time, we kinda goofed on the whole bleeding process and now we understand what needs to be done, mase will get the final touches and connections done tonight and monitor the iat2s.

Asphalt Assault

insulate the hose with aluminized vent tape. that will help the coolant from heating up from engine bay temps. either way you run the plumbing with the pump according to your beliefs this would be a important extra trick. the idea is to shield the hose similarly done by factory GM on the heater core hoses. they are more agressive with protection there due to the exhaust header. aluminized tape should be enough but there might be better things. the alluminum corragated hose protector like the block heater hoses would be considered to be the best.

well that could be to some point except if you having problems with overheating your fuel charge and trying to prevent detonation from IAT being to high, right. IAT can get too high if you in the 130 to 140 as that would be heat soaked. want to be in the 90 to 110 range. I have seen 130 and 140 with my 2.6 (just got it) one evening. yesterday I was driving and air charge was 90 (IAT2). I hit the gas while do 40mph and the tires peeled out letting out a major squeal. I shifted the car to third and realized I was in second at the time. this car is crazy powerful now if IAT2 are in check. you know I am doing this mod very soon...LOL.

Running meth than I would say it not necessary or vital. for HP it will help but seriously until you get some pistons why would you want to put more stress on those weak pistons. if you went to forged pistons already then all the power to you. you have every reason to max your power.

Man I think I found the only benefit to living in canada. my IAT2 only gets up to 130 cause were cooler up here I hear of 165 and 150 lol and I am stock at 90 to 130.lol but summers coming so that will all change our temperatures swing from -40 to 100 F. no ****.


any differences now?

distillion

well be testing mine out tonite.

BlilBT

It does go from the Dual pass H/E >>. Back to the Manifold! Then thru The Intake Manifold>> Then Back out to the Pump for the return Trip! The Temps on the dual Pass are alot lower than the Stock temps! So in return your Coolant temps goin thru the Pump are Cooler than they were when the car had the stock cooling system, The Pump will run cooler than stock & Should last longer!

distillion

so BLILBT the setup we did will work just fine right?

jgarciarivera

iTrader: (1)

Is it normal a 189F temperature on a stock ss/sc?

InfinityzeN

I got a question. What mixture of anti-freeze and water you guys running? Add any thing else to the fluid?

I'm asking because antifreeze has about 50% of the heat handling capabilities of water. So with the stock 50/50 mix, you have about 75% the efficiency of pure water. You should always stay at least 20% antifreeze no matter what, but with a 20/80 split, you would have 90% the efficiency of pure water. Add in some Redline Water Wetter or Royal Purple Purple Ice and you would actually get a higher efficiency then pure water. Meaning you would see about a 30~35% increase in exchanger performance.

BlilBT

Option A works OK
Option B Is the way to go & Route it the same way Gm tells you to!

distillion

we just thought routing the plumbing the way mentioned in previous posts made a bit more sense as apposed to GMs way since thats how it was connected before.

BlilBT

I'm Not sure if it will have the same effect or Not, What Layout are you setting up! Another words How are you routing it!

Asphalt Assault

anyone know what the IAT2 temp is for stock and GMS2. I hit 164 yesterday. I was amazed how guickly it moved up! I need to do more than this little bit of cooling. Gotta go full blown here or just a bigger pulley for now. many problems with 2.7"?

distillion

thats seems a tad high, we found out today for some reason my setup isnt bleeding properly, its almost like its working in reverse and my surge tank is filling with coolant instead of it depleteing.............
it was goin down and topped it twice, then today it was abnormaly high, and bubbles were coming out of the hose that is connected to the bottom of the surge tank......

Asphalt Assault

just to clarify my intercooling is stock.

distillion

i never saw temps that high.
running a 2.7 pulley.

Asphalt Assault

I am running 2.6 so how high did you get?

BlilBT

The surge tank is suppose to maintain a Level Fill when running after all the air is gone! It took mine about 50 Miles to Bleed out all the air!
Just make sure your flow is from the pump to the stock H/E to the 2nd H/E Then back to the center port! On the 2 out Lines should be your 1 st Tee then a small piece of Hose & then your 2nd Tee! Off that Tee 1 3/4 hose goes to the revesvoir & the other goes to the Pump In!

distillion

fixed
wot in second, hit 120 degrees max
wot in 3rd 138 degrees
crusing on highway 85 degrees
idles reaches highest 136-138, then drops to 125 and remains there until moving.
crusing the streets 100-115, depending on traffic.
this is on a 2.7 pulley.
the piping just had to be rerouted because there wasnt enough flow goin to the heat exchanger, other than that we changed nothing in our setup.
the only thing is that we still see bubbles in the tank coming from the bottom where the hose is attached and not exactly sure why.
we retune on wed

Mase

the only thing we did was move the T-fitting to the bottom near the pump and point the straight through of the T to wards the heat exchanger and the bend towards the tank higher up.

85*F, sick!

distillion

i must say you are the man

TxLonghorn#1

does anybody have a diagram of option B...include the "Y" fitting and if you used the 0.040" orifice. I can't understand the one that GM has