Dual Pass intercooler
#251
Banned
Join Date: 03-14-06
Location: soon to banned as I am from MANITOBA?
Posts: 3,660
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
the reservoir you seeing holds ice. the inlet and outlet are the same size. you would put it in series with the line going from the HE and running to the endcap. that way you can shill the coolant just before entering the intake. it runs inline so the in and out can be used. you can not use it to blead out air unless you have the stock small reservoir also in line at the chiller box.
now if you knew all of this prior to my post, i am sorry, I didnt gather that you did from reading your post.
#252
Senior Member
some things so simple are hard.....LOL
the reservoir you seeing holds ice. the inlet and outlet are the same size. you would put it in series with the line going from the HE and running to the endcap. that way you can shill the coolant just before entering the intake. it runs inline so the in and out can be used. you can not use it to blead out air unless you have the stock small reservoir also in line at the chiller box.
now if you knew all of this prior to my post, i am sorry, I didnt gather that you did from reading your post.
the reservoir you seeing holds ice. the inlet and outlet are the same size. you would put it in series with the line going from the HE and running to the endcap. that way you can shill the coolant just before entering the intake. it runs inline so the in and out can be used. you can not use it to blead out air unless you have the stock small reservoir also in line at the chiller box.
now if you knew all of this prior to my post, i am sorry, I didnt gather that you did from reading your post.
#253
Senior Member
Where is this pipe plug screw at, if everyone is talking about the screw that holds the dipstick to the side of the manifold then that hose isnt doing anything because its a blind hole that doesnt have an exit? It seems like thats where the diagram says its suppose to go but if that is where it goes then the hole needs drilled out so the bleeder can breathe into the manifold. Which doesnt make much sense either, if the bleeder would happen to get fluid in it then the fluid would go into the manifold and that would just be dumb. Also the GM diagram says to flip the bottom two cores so the small openings are int he middle and the large openings are at the bottom, whats up with the, the picture at the beginning of the thread has the big openings in the middle and small openings are at the top and bottom?
#254
Senior Member
Where is this pipe plug screw at, if everyone is talking about the screw that holds the dipstick to the side of the manifold then that hose isnt doing anything because its a blind hole that doesnt have an exit? It seems like thats where the diagram says its suppose to go but if that is where it goes then the hole needs drilled out so the bleeder can breathe into the manifold. Which doesnt make much sense either, if the bleeder would happen to get fluid in it then the fluid would go into the manifold and that would just be dumb. Also the GM diagram says to flip the bottom two cores so the small openings are int he middle and the large openings are at the bottom, whats up with the, the picture at the beginning of the thread has the big openings in the middle and small openings are at the top and bottom?
I Think I understand what you are saying, The Bleeder Plug screw is on the top of the Stock H/E! It ties into the New reservoir's 1/4 inch inlet!
The Gm Diagram is correct, The small ones in the middle & Large on Both ends!
Look back a Few Pages & read up, It will help you if you have any Problems!
Very good setup!
#255
Senior Member
ok i finally found out where it was at, i was lookiong in the completely wrong location, in the GM diagram it makes it look like the 1/4 inch tube goes into the little screw hole where the dipstick is held on by but its that screw with the blue dot on it on the top of the H/E. Im assuming that this is the screw everyone is talking about?
#256
Senior Member
ok i finally found out where it was at, i was lookiong in the completely wrong location, in the GM diagram it makes it look like the 1/4 inch tube goes into the little screw hole where the dipstick is held on by but its that screw with the blue dot on it on the top of the H/E. Im assuming that this is the screw everyone is talking about?
#259
so would it make a difference to add ice in the extra resivour tank prior to top end run, b/c if it helps i'll do it I've had the dual pass setup for a week now and i haven't had the chance to go top ending yet. Also that bolt under the manifold was the gayest thing ever and i said screw it, took off the bumper and pulled back the a/c condenser and all to have some room. All in all i started at about 8 at night worked till 5:30AM got up at 1 and finished the car at 5PM went riding without the bumper. (should of seen the looks from people, it was the "Yep see hun over there that street racer done wrecked his whole bumper off" and also if u take the bumper off the cobalt looks like it's smiling at u or something
#260
Senior Member
iTrader: (10)
so would it make a difference to add ice in the extra resivour tank prior to top end run, b/c if it helps i'll do it I've had the dual pass setup for a week now and i haven't had the chance to go top ending yet. Also that bolt under the manifold was the gayest thing ever and i said screw it, took off the bumper and pulled back the a/c condenser and all to have some room. All in all i started at about 8 at night worked till 5:30AM got up at 1 and finished the car at 5PM went riding without the bumper. (should of seen the looks from people, it was the "Yep see hun over there that street racer done wrecked his whole bumper off" and also if u take the bumper off the cobalt looks like it's smiling at u or something
#261
New Member
Join Date: 05-10-06
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 188
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#262
New Member
Join Date: 08-02-07
Location: Mt Vernon, WA
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hard to reach bolts
I found it was alot easier to take out the three alternator bolts and move the alternator out of the way. If you look on the bottom side of the intake there is a single 15mm bolt holding the bottom of the intake. There is no need to remove the I/C pump to get to the two bolts most people seem to be fighting. Also you can do all this from up top and not under the car!
#263
How in the hell do you get the hose off the IC pump? I've been fighting with this thing forever. Its really close and you need a long pair of pliers to get enough leverage. I could squeeze the thing that holds the hose on but the hose will not budge.
#264
New Member
Join Date: 08-02-07
Location: Mt Vernon, WA
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I used a small pair of channel lock pliers to squeeze the hose clamp and just pulled and twisted the hose. I later found out that if you take the IC pump out of its bracket you can get a better angle on the hose and hose clamps. It's only two bolts to remove the pump, and they're fairly easy to get too.
#265
I found out why it was so difficult. The hose clamps were melted into the hose along the broad side of the clamp. I wound up having to shred some of the hose connections just to get them off. Some came off fairly easily.
I just got done with mine. I go out to drive around to purge the lines and I believe I have a boost leak . My max boost is either 10psi or about the stock 12.5 psi. When I get up past 5psi it starts to jerk like I'm bouncing off the rev limiter. The S/C spins up quick but I don't think its quite as loud. Wouldnt I be seeing an intermittent rise in boost on my gauge? It's a steady climb to wherever it is going to reach its max. It has the torque of an SI and I can't take it anymore AHH
I think my options for a leak would be the SC<>Intake manifold or the intake manifold<>engine. Which would be most likely? I doubt the CEL it threw will be much help on decifering that. One of those takes about 15 min to fix and the other like an hour to take apart.
I just got done with mine. I go out to drive around to purge the lines and I believe I have a boost leak . My max boost is either 10psi or about the stock 12.5 psi. When I get up past 5psi it starts to jerk like I'm bouncing off the rev limiter. The S/C spins up quick but I don't think its quite as loud. Wouldnt I be seeing an intermittent rise in boost on my gauge? It's a steady climb to wherever it is going to reach its max. It has the torque of an SI and I can't take it anymore AHH
I think my options for a leak would be the SC<>Intake manifold or the intake manifold<>engine. Which would be most likely? I doubt the CEL it threw will be much help on decifering that. One of those takes about 15 min to fix and the other like an hour to take apart.
#266
Senior Member
iTrader: (10)
I found out why it was so difficult. The hose clamps were melted into the hose along the broad side of the clamp. I wound up having to shred some of the hose connections just to get them off. Some came off fairly easily.
I just got done with mine. I go out to drive around to purge the lines and I believe I have a boost leak . My max boost is either 10psi or about the stock 12.5 psi. When I get up past 5psi it starts to jerk like I'm bouncing off the rev limiter. The S/C spins up quick but I don't think its quite as loud. Wouldnt I be seeing an intermittent rise in boost on my gauge? It's a steady climb to wherever it is going to reach its max. It has the torque of an SI and I can't take it anymore AHH
I think my options for a leak would be the SC<>Intake manifold or the intake manifold<>engine. Which would be most likely? I doubt the CEL it threw will be much help on decifering that. One of those takes about 15 min to fix and the other like an hour to take apart.
I just got done with mine. I go out to drive around to purge the lines and I believe I have a boost leak . My max boost is either 10psi or about the stock 12.5 psi. When I get up past 5psi it starts to jerk like I'm bouncing off the rev limiter. The S/C spins up quick but I don't think its quite as loud. Wouldnt I be seeing an intermittent rise in boost on my gauge? It's a steady climb to wherever it is going to reach its max. It has the torque of an SI and I can't take it anymore AHH
I think my options for a leak would be the SC<>Intake manifold or the intake manifold<>engine. Which would be most likely? I doubt the CEL it threw will be much help on decifering that. One of those takes about 15 min to fix and the other like an hour to take apart.
Boost leaks could be from cores not seated properly, manifold gasket leak/not tightend properly, SC base gasket leak/not tightend properly, endplate O-rings missing/damaged (either around the cores, or the green one going to the bypass valve.
I'm sure you have it fixed already based on the date of your post, but I'm just putting it out there for anyone else who might have a similar problem. I've done the dual-pass install a couple times, its not that bad if you know what you are up against, but its not easy or quick to do the whole job.
There are some nice write-ups here and on the RLF, just search the topic, its out there.
Last edited by ItalianJoe1; 06-03-2008 at 09:13 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#267
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 04-03-06
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 7,571
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I was running a 2.6" with HE, the dual pass, and a ported blower. My IAT2 was 180* on a 45-165 mph pull. It definitely helps top end heat.
#270
New Member
Join Date: 09-10-11
Location: Sudbury Ontario
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post