Dual Pass intercooler
12-28-2006, 10:52 PM
#51
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Originally Posted by Blown 4-banger
I DID NOT DO THE ******* GM END PLATE!!! I DID THE MODIFICATION MYSELF AND I USE THE TWO STOCK FITTINGS AS INLETS, AND THE NEW MIDDLE ONE AS THE OUTLET!!! THE CORE ARE FLIPPED PROPERLY FOR COOLANT FLOWING THE WAY I DID IT!!! DON'T ******* TELL ME I DID MY OWN MODIFICATION WRONG BECAUSE I DID IT DIFFERENTLY THAN THE GM VERSION!!!one!!!!!!1111one!!!!11!
*panting hardly
Have a nice ******* day!!!
[/RANT]
*panting hardly
Have a nice ******* day!!!
[/RANT]
12-28-2006, 10:53 PM
#52
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Originally Posted by Blown 4-banger
I wouldn't suggest doing it unless your prepared to be without your car for a day or two or 9
Make sure you have a way of getting the fitting tig welded on. If you didn't live so far away I'd help you out (you'll need it getting the intake manfold off)
Make sure you have a way of getting the fitting tig welded on. If you didn't live so far away I'd help you out (you'll need it getting the intake manfold off)
the balt is not my every day , but i sure can use ur help if u hapend to b close let me know 
12-28-2006, 11:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Blown 4-banger
WOW!!! Thats like 60 miles from where I live! it is f%^&* far dot worry do u helpme a lot just by telling me were to get this stuff ill get it done some how i done everything else myself so far
thx
12-28-2006, 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Blown 4-banger
I've done all my own stuff too! I'm gettin ready to rig up a heat exchanger sprayer.
12-28-2006, 11:34 PM
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Originally Posted by gilbert
its the only way , cool let us know how that ends i may have to do one myself
jk man
12-28-2006, 11:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Blown 4-banger
Man your just coping every mod I've done so far aren't you! jk man
jk man ok man got to go nice talking to u ill post my results on the dual pass by monday( hopefully) laterzz.
12-29-2006, 12:06 AM
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yeah Blown did it all by himself. 
Honestly I would plan it out ahead of time. Get all the parts together and schedule a time to take the end plate to a shop to be welded. Take the car apart the day before the appointment.
Make sure your fitting are aluminum so they can be welded without conflicts between the metals.
Honestly I would plan it out ahead of time. Get all the parts together and schedule a time to take the end plate to a shop to be welded. Take the car apart the day before the appointment.
Make sure your fitting are aluminum so they can be welded without conflicts between the metals.
12-29-2006, 01:00 AM
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The longer you are WOT the greater the temp decrease, because...
1. With the dual pass IAT2 increase slower.
2. With the dual pass, my IAT2 has been over 170 ONE time, and that was pre heatsoaked, and a 20-140 mph run.
3. With the dual pass IAT2 tends to level off around 165, and stock it will keep rising forever.
1. With the dual pass IAT2 increase slower.
2. With the dual pass, my IAT2 has been over 170 ONE time, and that was pre heatsoaked, and a 20-140 mph run.
3. With the dual pass IAT2 tends to level off around 165, and stock it will keep rising forever.
12-29-2006, 01:05 AM
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Here is my guide to doing the dual pass.
1) DISCONECT THE BATTERY and raise the front end of the car high enough for you to easily get under it. I normally leave the battery connected when instructions say to disconect it, but you will be using a wrench right next to the starter and from experience it arcs very well. Ask Blown 4-banger as our friend welded a wrench to Blown's starter.
2) Take off the S/C.
3) Remove the hoses from the IC pump and catch the fluid that drains.
4) Remove the IC pump and entire IC pump mounting bracket.
5) Remove the 2 bolts under the intake manifold. They are just barely above the IC mounting bracket bolts and not shown in the GMS3 instructions.
6) Remove the 7 fastners on the top of the manifold and remove.
7) Drain as much of the coolant from the manifold as possible. This will make the removal of the end plate and cores less messy.
8) Remove the bolts from the endplate and remove. It will take some force to pull it off. Be careful not to drop anything. There are 2 brass washers and 1 o-ring per core.
9) Remove the 2 cores. You can chose which ones you want and flip them. Just remember that the inlet has the small hole, the outlet has the large hole. Like the end plate, the cores are difficult to remove. I suggest going to a local Ace Hardware and getting some rubber jaw covers for your pliers to prevent scoreing them. There is a second set of washers and o-rings on the other side of the cores to look out for. The cores will make a horrible scritching sound as you are pulling them out. Just be gentle not to bend the fins.
10) Replace the cores with the small hole as the inlet for your new flow pattern and the large hole for the outlet.
11) Take the end plate to have the fitting welded in.
12) Replace the end plate and torque the bolts to the specs provided in the GMS3 instructions. (link posted in post #36)
13) Now would be a good time IMO to replace the stock intake manifold gasket with the revised version from GM if you haven't already ( http://www.crateenginedepot.com/stor...P1723C137.aspx ) and replace the intake manifold. Replace all the upper and lower fastners only hand tight then torque them according to the GMS3 specs.
14) Replace the IC pump mounting bracket and IC pump.
15) Reconnect all the coolant lines making sure the flow is going the proper direction for how you flipped the cores.
16) Refill and bleed the air from the system. I would suggest adding the extra resevior so you have a good place to bleed and extra coolant to prevent heat soak.
17) Replace the S/C and make sure everything is properly torqued and connected.
18) Take the car off the stands and take her for a spin. The real bennefits are the lower temps that allow you to add more timing to your tune whether it be for pump gas or race gas.
Feel free to ask questions if you need.
1) DISCONECT THE BATTERY and raise the front end of the car high enough for you to easily get under it. I normally leave the battery connected when instructions say to disconect it, but you will be using a wrench right next to the starter and from experience it arcs very well. Ask Blown 4-banger as our friend welded a wrench to Blown's starter.
2) Take off the S/C.
3) Remove the hoses from the IC pump and catch the fluid that drains.
4) Remove the IC pump and entire IC pump mounting bracket.
5) Remove the 2 bolts under the intake manifold. They are just barely above the IC mounting bracket bolts and not shown in the GMS3 instructions.
6) Remove the 7 fastners on the top of the manifold and remove.
7) Drain as much of the coolant from the manifold as possible. This will make the removal of the end plate and cores less messy.
8) Remove the bolts from the endplate and remove. It will take some force to pull it off. Be careful not to drop anything. There are 2 brass washers and 1 o-ring per core.
9) Remove the 2 cores. You can chose which ones you want and flip them. Just remember that the inlet has the small hole, the outlet has the large hole. Like the end plate, the cores are difficult to remove. I suggest going to a local Ace Hardware and getting some rubber jaw covers for your pliers to prevent scoreing them. There is a second set of washers and o-rings on the other side of the cores to look out for. The cores will make a horrible scritching sound as you are pulling them out. Just be gentle not to bend the fins.
10) Replace the cores with the small hole as the inlet for your new flow pattern and the large hole for the outlet.
11) Take the end plate to have the fitting welded in.
12) Replace the end plate and torque the bolts to the specs provided in the GMS3 instructions. (link posted in post #36)
13) Now would be a good time IMO to replace the stock intake manifold gasket with the revised version from GM if you haven't already ( http://www.crateenginedepot.com/stor...P1723C137.aspx ) and replace the intake manifold. Replace all the upper and lower fastners only hand tight then torque them according to the GMS3 specs.
14) Replace the IC pump mounting bracket and IC pump.
15) Reconnect all the coolant lines making sure the flow is going the proper direction for how you flipped the cores.
16) Refill and bleed the air from the system. I would suggest adding the extra resevior so you have a good place to bleed and extra coolant to prevent heat soak.
17) Replace the S/C and make sure everything is properly torqued and connected.
18) Take the car off the stands and take her for a spin. The real bennefits are the lower temps that allow you to add more timing to your tune whether it be for pump gas or race gas.
Feel free to ask questions if you need.
12-29-2006, 01:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Blown 4-banger
Yeah, of course I did all the work myself.... with the extreme help of Cobalt_Supercharged! I couldn't have done it without you Geroge!
It was a real learning experience. I'm glad I was able to experience it even though I wanted to destroy your car with a baseball bat followed by some C4.
12-29-2006, 01:22 AM
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[QUOTE=Cobalt_Supercharged]
8) Remove the bolts from the endplate and remove. It will take some force to pull it off. Be careful not to drop anything. There are 2 brass washers and 1 o-ring per core./QUOTE]
What is the purpose of the brass washers?
Where are they?
How likely are these to come out when removing the cores?
Sorry for all the questions...
8) Remove the bolts from the endplate and remove. It will take some force to pull it off. Be careful not to drop anything. There are 2 brass washers and 1 o-ring per core./QUOTE]
What is the purpose of the brass washers?
Where are they?
How likely are these to come out when removing the cores?
Sorry for all the questions...
12-29-2006, 01:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Cobalt_Supercharged
That's right biatch. It was a real learning experience. I'm glad I was able to experience it even though I wanted to destroy your car with a baseball bat followed by some C4.
It was a real learning experience. I'm glad I was able to experience it even though I wanted to destroy your car with a baseball bat followed by some C4.
12-29-2006, 01:26 AM
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[QUOTE=Admiral Jedi]
The brass washers are on the end of the cores where the o-ring is.
Originally Posted by Cobalt_Supercharged
8) Remove the bolts from the endplate and remove. It will take some force to pull it off. Be careful not to drop anything. There are 2 brass washers and 1 o-ring per core./QUOTE]
What is the purpose of the brass washers?
Where are they?
How likely are these to come out when removing the cores?
Sorry for all the questions...
What is the purpose of the brass washers?
Where are they?
How likely are these to come out when removing the cores?
Sorry for all the questions...
12-29-2006, 10:22 AM
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I love playing with C4, and blowing **** up. I get to do it regularly too! I love my job that the even Air Force pays me to do!
How difficult is it to pull out the cores? Any tips or tricks to doing it safely.
How difficult is it to pull out the cores? Any tips or tricks to doing it safely.
12-29-2006, 01:25 PM
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12-29-2006, 03:33 PM
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What parts did you try to get? I was talking about the pipe tap, and 1/2" drill bit. Do you know where the parker store is? Its on Broadway and 35th ST. Thats where I got my fittings for it, they have EVERYTHING!!! Even extra hose which you will need (3/4" heater hose)
12-29-2006, 03:34 PM
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The cores are stuck in there pretty good, just get a firm grip on the end of it, and pull like hell!
12-29-2006, 03:47 PM
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What parts did you try to get? I was talking about the pipe tap, and 1/2" drill bit. Do you know where the parker store is? Its on Broadway and 35th ST. Thats where I got my fittings for it, they have EVERYTHING!!! Even extra hose which you will need (3/4" heater hose)
Last edited by gilbert; 12-29-2006 at 05:29 PM.
