some things so simple are hard.....LOL

the reservoir you seeing holds ice. the inlet and outlet are the same size. you would put it in series with the line going from the HE and running to the endcap. that way you can shill the coolant just before entering the intake. it runs inline so the in and out can be used. you can not use it to blead out air unless you have the stock small reservoir also in line at the chiller box.

now if you knew all of this prior to my post, i am sorry, I didnt gather that you did from reading your post.

Yes I did, Alphajag is running that system with a icebox made from Bwoody! I hope there is a fill for the system in that Bottle, the 1 I see is for the Ice I Think. So as far as acting like Option b it wont, But as far as acting like a small H/E with Ice In it No Problem!

Where is this pipe plug screw at, if everyone is talking about the screw that holds the dipstick to the side of the manifold then that hose isnt doing anything because its a blind hole that doesnt have an exit? It seems like thats where the diagram says its suppose to go but if that is where it goes then the hole needs drilled out so the bleeder can breathe into the manifold. Which doesnt make much sense either, if the bleeder would happen to get fluid in it then the fluid would go into the manifold and that would just be dumb. Also the GM diagram says to flip the bottom two cores so the small openings are int he middle and the large openings are at the bottom, whats up with the, the picture at the beginning of the thread has the big openings in the middle and small openings are at the top and bottom?

I Think I understand what you are saying, The Bleeder Plug screw is on the top of the Stock H/E! It ties into the New reservoir's 1/4 inch inlet!
The Gm Diagram is correct, The small ones in the middle & Large on Both ends!
Look back a Few Pages & read up, It will help you if you have any Problems!:twothumbs
Very good setup!

ok i finally found out where it was at, i was lookiong in the completely wrong location, in the GM diagram it makes it look like the 1/4 inch tube goes into the little screw hole where the dipstick is held on by but its that screw with the blue dot on it on the top of the H/E. Im assuming that this is the screw everyone is talking about?

Bingo!;)

lol yess, thanks BlilBT

No Problem anytime!:cssNET:

so would it make a difference to add ice in the extra resivour tank prior to top end run, b/c if it helps i'll do it I've had the dual pass setup for a week now and i haven't had the chance to go top ending yet. Also that bolt under the manifold was the gayest thing ever and i said screw it, took off the bumper and pulled back the a/c condenser and all to have some room. All in all i started at about 8 at night worked till 5:30AM got up at 1 and finished the car at 5PM went riding without the bumper. (should of seen the looks from people, it was the "Yep see hun over there that street racer done wrecked his whole bumper off" :lol: and also if u take the bumper off the cobalt looks like it's smiling at u or something

You took the whole bumper off to get to that bolt? Did that really help you? I was blocked by the manifold and the I/C pump, nothing that far forward. Just takes some paitence, a little damage to your hands, and a ratcheting wrench would make it easier, I didn't have one but I will before I ever take the manifold off again.

? what pulley are u running?
we are running a 2.7 and hte intake temps hit 175+ w/o the h/e and w/o meth
of course are WOT at 135-150
but yeah

Hard to reach bolts
 

I found it was alot easier to take out the three alternator bolts and move the alternator out of the way. If you look on the bottom side of the intake there is a single 15mm bolt holding the bottom of the intake. There is no need to remove the I/C pump to get to the two bolts most people seem to be fighting. Also you can do all this from up top and not under the car!

How in the hell do you get the hose off the IC pump? I've been fighting with this thing forever. Its really close and you need a long pair of pliers to get enough leverage. I could squeeze the thing that holds the hose on but the hose will not budge.

I used a small pair of channel lock pliers to squeeze the hose clamp and just pulled and twisted the hose. I later found out that if you take the IC pump out of its bracket you can get a better angle on the hose and hose clamps. It's only two bolts to remove the pump, and they're fairly easy to get too.

I found out why it was so difficult. The hose clamps were melted into the hose along the broad side of the clamp. I wound up having to shred some of the hose connections just to get them off. Some came off fairly easily.

I just got done with mine. I go out to drive around to purge the lines and I believe I have a boost leak :(. My max boost is either 10psi or about the stock 12.5 psi. When I get up past 5psi it starts to jerk like I'm bouncing off the rev limiter. The S/C spins up quick but I don't think its quite as loud. Wouldnt I be seeing an intermittent rise in boost on my gauge? It's a steady climb to wherever it is going to reach its max. It has the torque of an SI and I can't take it anymore AHH

I think my options for a leak would be the SC<>Intake manifold or the intake manifold<>engine. Which would be most likely? I doubt the CEL it threw will be much help on decifering that. One of those takes about 15 min to fix and the other like an hour to take apart.

The clamps are glued to the hose from the factory, they didn't melt. Really stupid idea I think, but thats what we get.

Boost leaks could be from cores not seated properly, manifold gasket leak/not tightend properly, SC base gasket leak/not tightend properly, endplate O-rings missing/damaged (either around the cores, or the green one going to the bypass valve.

I'm sure you have it fixed already based on the date of your post, but I'm just putting it out there for anyone else who might have a similar problem. I've done the dual-pass install a couple times, its not that bad if you know what you are up against, but its not easy or quick to do the whole job.

There are some nice write-ups here and on the RLF, just search the topic, its out there.

I was running a 2.6" with HE, the dual pass, and a ported blower. My IAT2 was 180* on a 45-165 mph pull. It definitely helps top end heat.

click

I'l have to remember this thread for when i go SC lol

What does this actually do? And how much does it cost to do?