Dual Pass intercooler - Page 6 - Cobalt SS Network

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Dual Pass intercooler

Old 01-26-2007, 05:10 PM
  #126  
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Originally Posted by Blown 4-banger View Post
You'll need 3/4" heater hose. I'd say about 4 feet just to be safe. Also bleeding the system is a long and tedious process, expect it to take several hours.
If you use the extra cooling tank with the 1/4" line going from the top of the heat exchanger to the coolant bottle it bleeds the air out on its own. The air will come right out.
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Old 01-26-2007, 07:28 PM
  #127  
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Originally Posted by BlackSS/SC View Post
If you use the extra cooling tank with the 1/4" line going from the top of the heat exchanger to the coolant bottle it bleeds the air out on its own. The air will come right out.
That's part of the reason I recommend adding the tank while you are at it. Plus it prevents you from making a mess multiple times.
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Old 01-26-2007, 07:38 PM
  #128  
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ok guys educate me,
if i went with the b option how muc hmore involved is this?
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Old 01-26-2007, 10:15 PM
  #129  
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Theres definatly more involved, but not like 5 hours of extra work. I'd do it for sure!
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Old 01-27-2007, 12:49 AM
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I think it is every bit worth the extra time and expense. You will have to drill the Intake manifold for the bleeder valve, but nobody is really sure where.
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Old 01-27-2007, 12:52 AM
  #131  
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Zinner drilled it on the other side of the manifold (the passenger side).
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Old 01-27-2007, 12:58 AM
  #132  
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I wish he would update his Stage 3 install thread then.
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Old 01-27-2007, 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Blown 4-banger View Post
Zinner drilled it on the other side of the manifold (the passenger side).

No I never drilled out anything. I was asking if thats where you put the bleeder in the stage 3 endplate install.
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Old 01-27-2007, 11:02 PM
  #134  
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The bleeder goes on the top passenger side of the heat exchanger. If you look in through the spot where the hood latch is and towards the passenger side you will see a pipe plug screwed in there. Take that out and put a fitting in that has a 1/4" nipple on it. Can't remember the thread now, it was either 1/8"NPT or 1/4"NPT, thinking it was 1/8"NPT but don't quote me on it. You don't need to do anything to do with drilling the intake manifold. Once you got the fitting in you shove the .040" orfice into the 1/4" rubber hose and put that on the 1/4" nipple you just screwed in. The other end goes on the 1/4" nipple on the new coolant tank. I had no problem with air whatsoever, just filled it up. Drove a bit and stopped, topped it up. The air will come out easy on it's own with GM's option B.

Hope I could help. The instructions aren't very clear on this.
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Old 01-28-2007, 09:23 AM
  #135  
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Yeah I found the spot to screw in the bleed screw. I didn't do the GM option 2 because I have all my nitrous gear in that spot.

I used the hose however and just had to drain into the stock filler neck for like 20 minutes.
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Old 01-28-2007, 09:51 AM
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anyone know where I can see these options ie. instructions.
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Old 01-28-2007, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by spaz View Post
anyone know where I can see these options ie. instructions.
Crate engine Depot website!
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Old 01-28-2007, 06:07 PM
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How significantly would adding a larger reservoir affect iats along with a dual pass?
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Old 01-28-2007, 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Admiral Jedi View Post
How significantly would adding a larger reservoir affect iats along with a dual pass?
Larger reservoir would hold more coolant and take longer to heat soak. The gives the ability to do longer full boost runs.
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Old 01-28-2007, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Cobalt_Supercharged View Post
Larger reservoir would hold more coolant and take longer to heat soak. The gives the ability to do longer full boost runs.
X2! Exactly why I'm doing an extra resevior tank.
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Old 01-31-2007, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Cobalt_Supercharged View Post
Larger reservoir would hold more coolant and take longer to heat soak. The gives the ability to do longer full boost runs.

The GM reservoir will add very little extra heat capacity. There is very little flow going through it because of the .040" orfice in line is the only circulation it sees. It's main purpose is to provide extra room for the coolant to expand due to higher temperatures and the extra volume that additional heat exchangers add to the system. It will also bleed air out of the system and keep it out of the system much more efficiantly than the stock fill tube.

Pierre
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Old 01-31-2007, 04:33 PM
  #142  
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I wonder, would it be better to leave the .040 orfice out?
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Old 01-31-2007, 04:57 PM
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wat the hell are u guys talkin about now?
im confused about this random orfice.......

i may have asked this before but does that come with the kit or do i buy seperate?

Last edited by distillion; 01-31-2007 at 04:57 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 01-31-2007, 05:00 PM
  #144  
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Originally Posted by distillion View Post
wat the hell are u guys talkin about now?
im confused about this random orfice.......

i may have asked this before but does that come with the kit or do i buy seperate?
It's just that little piece of plastic you put in the 1/4" rubber line before you put it on the top of the heat exchanger. I wrote a how-to on it that I sent you but it didn't get posted for some reason.
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Old 01-31-2007, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Cobalt_Supercharged View Post
Larger reservoir would hold more coolant and take longer to heat soak. The gives the ability to do longer full boost runs.
On top of that you Add a Dual Pass Heat Exchanger & Your Good To Go!

Im getting a Custom Reservoir Made, I'm Doing the endplate, Heat Exchanger & Custom Reservoir all at once! I'll Post up some Pics when I Get it Installed! About aweek or so, Just waiting on the Reservoir to be Finished!
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Old 02-01-2007, 01:38 AM
  #146  
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Originally Posted by pierre View Post
The GM reservoir will add very little extra heat capacity. There is very little flow going through it because of the .040" orfice in line is the only circulation it sees. It's main purpose is to provide extra room for the coolant to expand due to higher temperatures and the extra volume that additional heat exchangers add to the system. It will also bleed air out of the system and keep it out of the system much more efficiantly than the stock fill tube.

Pierre
It connects with more than just the 1/4" line. It also connects with a 3/4" line. Take a look at the GM Stage 3 instructions. But your right that it is an expansion tank now that I looked at it again. If it had a return it would work even better. Do what BlilBT is doing with a custom resevoir tank and you will get what you really want.
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Old 02-12-2007, 12:14 AM
  #147  
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Were do we get the .040 orifice descibed in the option b instructions on crate engine depot. is this something an autoparts store would have
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Old 02-12-2007, 04:14 PM
  #148  
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Originally Posted by y2kzman View Post
Were do we get the .040 orifice descibed in the option b instructions on crate engine depot. is this something an autoparts store would have
Yes you can get it at any Parts store, Its Just a Line Reducer That goes on the Inside of the 1/4 inch Line to restrict Flow. The 1 in the instructions Has 4 sides & they simplly cut of the Piece on the Bottom. Then shove it up in the Line!
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Old 02-18-2007, 12:39 AM
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Maybe I missed it, but what are the torque specs on the bolts that hold the endplate to the manifold?
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Old 02-18-2007, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Admiral Jedi View Post
Maybe I missed it, but what are the torque specs on the bolts that hold the endplate to the manifold?
89 inch lbs!
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