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Cut the support to get the swap in and out fast and easy
Looks damn good in the 240 Plenty of room on this side for a custom turbo manifold and a bigger turbo
So the top of the valve cover is 4 1/2" taller then the top of the hood so my options are to ether cut the hood and make a 5" hood cowling or option 2 cut and modify the oil pan and pick up tube.or option 3cut and modify stock k-member. Or buy a tublar k-member and hope it gives me enough room
A custom oil pan would be the way i would go. 5" cowl hood wouldnt look good on an s13 imo. Unless the tubular k member has more space for the stock oil pan. Maybe get one made similar to the one ecotec miata makes?
the oil pan is a big deal in rwd swaps. sometimes you can just cut the pan and shorten the sump if your not hanging up that much on the crossmember. this is what i tried to do for my porsche swap, in the end i just built a custom oil pan.
the pan ended up being so shallow at the front that i had to change the pickup completely. i used a milodon external pickup for a big block chrysler. the front of the pan flange is tapped to 1/2" pipe where it lines up with the oil pickup on the front cover, and i ran a -12 an line between.
Ground clearance shouldn't be a problem and steering geometry the only thing that changed was it made my tie rods more of a straight line with the knuckles and it made the tire toe in a little bit which can be fixed by screwing the outer tierods in a little and steering shaft will be modified also because im transplanting the cobalt steering wheel into the 240
Ground clearance shouldn't be a problem and steering geometry the only thing that changed was it made my tie rods more of a straight line with the knuckles and it made the tire toe in a little bit which can be fixed by screwing the outer tierods in a little and steering shaft will be modified also because im transplanting the cobalt steering wheel into the 240
what about bump steer? anytime you move the steering rack up or down you start to induce bump steer. your suspension moves in an arc, and the tie rod has to move in the same arc as the control arm. when these arcs arent the same you get toe changes (bump steer) through suspension travel. being just slightly off will cause the front end to feel unstable in a corner, being way off will cause the car to change lanes over bumps, it can be downright dangerous. on my 944 i dropped the subframe 3/8" for bellhousing clearance and i can feel the bumpsteer, but its still driveable.
its hard to tell from the pics, how far did you drop the subframe? it looks like 2 1/2" to 3". the down and dirty theory is assuming the car had little to no bumpsteer to begin with, whatever you lowered the track you need to lower the steering arm. normally small corrections can be done with bump steer kits that lower the tie rod end, but your not going to correct that much of a change with a bump steer kit. bump steer kits are also bad for flexing, and dropping the steering arm down that much using a bump steer kit would be a failure waiting to happen.
i would highly recommend that before you proceed to put a wheel on it and measure off a fixed point on the car and cycle the suspension up and down with a floor jack and see how much the toe changes.
Ok sharkey i will check it tomorrow honestly didnt think about bumpsteer should i fix the toe in it has already got from me lowering the rack before i check it
Yeah more i think about it your right sharkey i fucked my self on that one. Ain't nothing a welder cant fix looks like im putting it back where it was and looking it doing the oil pan i really didn't want to do the oil pan but i guess its trial and error when it comes to dropping a motor in a car that its not supposed to be in
you can zero the toe before checking it, that would be the most accurate way to measure the bumpsteer. i do think the best thing to do is put it back the way it was and mod the oil pan.
the 2.2/2.4l pan is a little different than lnf/ldk pan, its more of a front sump design. it has some ribbing between the sump and the rear, but that could be trimmed away. this may work better for you being the 240 had a front sump pan. maybe that and some notching of the crossmember is the answer. here is a pic of a 2.2 pan
he no worries, i try and help where i can. ive fixed a number of cars with major bump steer problems, and built a couple of road race cars. this past week i put the rack in another street legal road race car my shop is building. there is far more geometry to look at than one would think in order to get the correct bump steer (which is 0) and proper ackerman.
Picked up a bumper and pop up lights Spool gun not tig Looks so sweet in the 240 Sits alot lower now Mocking up the dash with the cobalt steering wheel and electric power steering
Thanks and yes im shaving the whole bay what ever bolt hole or blank hole that isnt being used is going to be plugged and shaved i still have to do the passenger side i did the driver already
08-10-2017, 08:44 PM
