OFFICIAL Blown 4-banger build updates!
#26
Here's a question for all you folks saying you're going with a Ti Valvetrain:
What all parts of the valvetrain are you actually replacing with titanium parts?
Every time I dig into someones setup that claims they have a "Totally titanium" valvetrain, I end up finding they are using stainless or inconel valves with standard (put upgraded springs) and a stock cam, so the only parts they are actually using that are titanium are the valve retainers.
What all parts of the valvetrain are you actually replacing with titanium parts?
Every time I dig into someones setup that claims they have a "Totally titanium" valvetrain, I end up finding they are using stainless or inconel valves with standard (put upgraded springs) and a stock cam, so the only parts they are actually using that are titanium are the valve retainers.
#27
Higher compression pistons WILL net you more hp/tq, however your car wont like it much, and neither will the pistons.
If you can TUNE the higher compression pistons, and not have a worry in the world that they will break (or break something else...like your block) then you can do it.
However, lower compression pistons arnt necesarily better, but ALOT safer, and it allows you to shove more air into your motor.
Turbos, you can up the boost with a push of a button (boost controller) so lower comp. pistons would be best.
Superchargers, if you can find the right comp. pistons for the amount of boost your pushin, thatd be key. (alot of Trial & Error...and money)
but I look forward to seeing your updates.
(and my explanation was directed towards scythe snake)
If you can TUNE the higher compression pistons, and not have a worry in the world that they will break (or break something else...like your block) then you can do it.
However, lower compression pistons arnt necesarily better, but ALOT safer, and it allows you to shove more air into your motor.
Turbos, you can up the boost with a push of a button (boost controller) so lower comp. pistons would be best.
Superchargers, if you can find the right comp. pistons for the amount of boost your pushin, thatd be key. (alot of Trial & Error...and money)
but I look forward to seeing your updates.
(and my explanation was directed towards scythe snake)
Last edited by TCarter; 06-22-2007 at 12:35 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#28
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Here's a question for all you folks saying you're going with a Ti Valvetrain:
What all parts of the valvetrain are you actually replacing with titanium parts?
Every time I dig into someones setup that claims they have a "Totally titanium" valvetrain, I end up finding they are using stainless or inconel valves with standard (put upgraded springs) and a stock cam, so the only parts they are actually using that are titanium are the valve retainers.
What all parts of the valvetrain are you actually replacing with titanium parts?
Every time I dig into someones setup that claims they have a "Totally titanium" valvetrain, I end up finding they are using stainless or inconel valves with standard (put upgraded springs) and a stock cam, so the only parts they are actually using that are titanium are the valve retainers.
#31
I'd love to see a link to the Ferrea titanium valves or any other info you have on them, though.
#32
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Unless you're using a different PCM, there isn't a point in going past 8400 rpm's. Honestly, if you're using titanium valves, dual valve springs will be overkill and just adding the weight you were trying to remove back.
I'd love to see a link to the Ferrea titanium valves or any other info you have on them, though.
I'd love to see a link to the Ferrea titanium valves or any other info you have on them, though.
Yeah we got La Bannana running. I was trying to explain to gilbert how he couldn't run the 2.6" with the pump gas, and spent 2 days trying to tune it that way anyways. On the race gas
(109) it says something like 430hp on the interceptor, but I still don't like the way his setup feels. Still can't wait to take it to the dyno to see how much HP it really does make.
#33
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Unless you're using a different PCM, there isn't a point in going past 8400 rpm's. Honestly, if you're using titanium valves, dual valve springs will be overkill and just adding the weight you were trying to remove back.
I'd love to see a link to the Ferrea titanium valves or any other info you have on them, though.
I'd love to see a link to the Ferrea titanium valves or any other info you have on them, though.
#34
You use titanium valves to REDUCE weight from the valvetrain, because they are lighter than stainless steal valves. Get your facts straight. Dual valve springs are only a few grams heavier than standard valve spring, but since they don't move (they do compress, but remain stationary), they don't add weight to the moving valvetrain.
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#36
First off, I have my facts straight, you just mis-interpretted what I was saying. Second off, using a heavy rated spring adds to internal friction, no matter what. The weight of the spring itself does have less of an effect on the valvetrain than the valve itself, but it still is weight that needs to be moved. I'm not suggesting that you should go with the stock springs, just that a upgraded single spring would be able to handle more than you think seeing as it will have lighter valves to deal with in the first place.
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First off, I have my facts straight, you just mis-interpretted what I was saying. Second off, using a heavy rated spring adds to internal friction, no matter what. The weight of the spring itself does have less of an effect on the valvetrain than the valve itself, but it still is weight that needs to be moved. I'm not suggesting that you should go with the stock springs, just that a upgraded single spring would be able to handle more than you think seeing as it will have lighter valves to deal with in the first place.
#41
GMPP themselves told me that they recommend having custom cylinder liners installed above 400 horses, or buying their race prepped block. I'm not against anything he's doing, and I tend to overkill the vast majority of my own projects. I've just decided my goals for my own build aren't quite what his are, and I've been focusing more on reducing friction than anything else, so I just thought he'd appreciate some verying opinions.
#43
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GMPP themselves told me that they recommend having custom cylinder liners installed above 400 horses, or buying their race prepped block. I'm not against anything he's doing, and I tend to overkill the vast majority of my own projects. I've just decided my goals for my own build aren't quite what his are, and I've been focusing more on reducing friction than anything else, so I just thought he'd appreciate some verying opinions.
#44
I've read the background and build book as many times as most. I'm just passing on what they told me when I was trying to get the info for installing the copper headgasket and o-ring kit.
#46
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Did you read this? Read toward the bottom where the sleeves failed, and thats on the 2002 2.2L, I'm sure the 2.0L sleeves are a little more beefy.
http://www.year2032.com/ecotec.htm
EDIT*
http://www.year2032.com/ecotec.htm
EDIT*
Originally Posted by Article post above
However the stock Ecotec block and main/girdle structure did survive to 750 hp, as did the stock sleeves.
Last edited by Blown 4-banger; 06-26-2007 at 05:18 PM.
#47
I'm not dis-agreeing, I'm not putting new sleeves in either. Just passing on the info, as I said. BTW, I still haven't received the damn machining directions from those folks, either.
Edit:
What's up Paul? You ready to buy a trans? lol. Got the car on the road yet? What ever happened to that evo? Maybe you better PM me back, hehe.
Edit:
What's up Paul? You ready to buy a trans? lol. Got the car on the road yet? What ever happened to that evo? Maybe you better PM me back, hehe.
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