Cobalt SS Network - Rota's LNF Holset HX-35 Build

This build has been done now for awhile, but I figured I'd make up a write up about the journey. No one has made any build threads with it for the LNF.(Or that I could find so I did smash the crap out of that search bar! but didn't find much on Holsets for a LNF) I have not had it on a dyno yet because, it's the end of the season here in NY. But, I'm here to help people not take the hardest damn route for everything like I did...

IMPORTANT: YOU WILL HAVE TO RECLOCK/ROTATE THE TURBO AND DO SOME FIREWALL BASHING!!! SO IF YOU DON'T WANT TO DO THIS THEN STOP HERE!

If you chose to go with an external wastegate you'll probably want to cut off the internal wastegate actuator bolts spot and remove the actuator to save on some space between the firewall and housing as I did. I also had my internal wastegate flapper tacked shut. You cannot use a wastegate clamp because those are for non clocked/rotated turbos. Or you can just buy a Non-wastegated compressor housing if you can find one. But I think those are HX40 housings.(Could be wrong)

TURBO:
So first up, I used a Holset HX35 7-blade twinscroll from a 1999 Dodge Cummins. I used the original exhaust housing and compressor housings. This was given to me as a gift from a good friend. You can probably find one at a junk yard for around $100. Now from what I read on DSM and Honda forums this 7-blade HX-35 can flow passed or up to 60ft/lbs. But that's quite impressive to me seeing that the turbo was free. :lol:

TURBO INFORMATION:
One of the biggest problems people have with these turbos I guess is finding the correct oil inlet fitting. It's a M12x1.5!!! Again M12x1.5. I bought M12x1.5 with a 1.5 restrictor, found right on eBay. If you the have two big/small fittings, restrictor or hose you'll drown or starve the turbo and blow your side seals or over heat it and need a rebuild. You can also just burn oil and get smoke pouring out from your hood. So make sure your drain and feed lines are as straight as possible and an adequate size. I used the Summit Racing DIY oil lines, I bought -10AN and -4AN lines with a T3 Oil drain flange from my local Pep Boys Automotive shop or the flange can be found on eBay. I used -10AN for the drain which seems to work perfectly and -4AN for the feed with a 90 degree -4AN to -4AN adapter for that 90 degree bend. I also had to buy the Treadstone Oil drain fitting that goes into the oil pan. Another little fitting you'll need is the ZZP Ecotec Oil Feed Fitting this goes into the block itself. This makes it so you can get your oil line fitting right on ZZP's fitting in your block.

TURBO OIL FEED ADAPTER FITTING:
Turbo Oil Feed Adapter Fitting M12x1 5 w 1 5mm Hole Volvo TD04L TD04H TD04HL | eBay

ZZPerfomance Ectotec Oil Fitting:
Ecotec Oil Feed Fitting

Treadstone Oil Drain Back fitting:
Cobalt SS 08+ Oil Drain Back Fitting- TREADSTONE PERFORMANCE

Another important thing, I bought the turbo with the stock 2-Bolt exhaust elbow. So I had to buy a different end with a V-band on it. I actually got this info from a DSM Holset build thread.(Thank you DSM guys)

The turbo V-band flange link Below:
Holset Downpipe Turbo Flange 3" V Band HY35 HX35 HX35W HX30 HX30W Cummins 4 6BT | eBay

Turbo V-band flange gasket:
HX35 Turbo 5 Bolt Outlet Gasket 3535001

MANIFOLD:
Second up, I used the Treadstone T3 manifold with their hardware and all their gaskets if that matters. I used the Treadstone manifold because I emailed ZZP asking what they thought and just got "You should look into purchasing our turbo kit for under $2,000." etc.. etc... so seeing that they just tried to sell me something rather than help me I figured I'd bring my business to Treadstone. At Treadstone I actually talked with Hector on the phone for all my questions. Although when I got the manifold I did have some complaints but never voiced them. (I guess my problem, I just wanted to start the build) The manifold flange that goes on the studs one of the stud holes weren't centered correctly like the rest. But I still decided to use it anyways. Later on in the build my coolant tube from the thermostat did not fit with the manifold on either so that needed to be "edited" with ball peen hammer very carefully.

INTAKE:
Third, I made my own intake, I bought a Treadstone 4" to 3" coupler reducer, and Vibrant couplers with Vibrant intake piping. This was the stupidest thing ever BUT it did work for the summer. Though I had many fitment issues and just wasn't right to many T-clamps and couplers went horribley wrong. So I became smart and bought the Treadstone Intake pipe with the MAF relocated like I should of from the beginning. Works splendid as it should of haha.:lol: Of coarse one thing to note as I'm sure lots of people on here know but if you don't you must relocate the MAF to your lower intercooler pipe.

UPPER INTERCOOLER PIPE:
Now for the upper intercooler pipe I used ZZP's with the V-band bov option selected but, I needed the Hx35 compressor elbow to make it work properly. It's a little elbow that V-bands from the compressor tip out to the upper intercooler pipe. This lets you just run a coupler and some clamps from that elbow to your upper intercooler pipe. It worked like a charm. Id say it was 100% necessary, without it I was going to have to do some grinding to the tip of the compressor housing to get a coupler and some clamps to that. Which looks gross and rigged as I saw on DSM forums.

TUBRO TO UPPER INTERCOOLER PIPE INFORMATION:
Off of the top of the Upper intercooler pipe the Compressor elbow part number is:3923178
This part number is the one I specifically needed! It may not be the same case for yours.

But beware! there's a few different elbows, mine was a 90 degree bend 2.5" to 3" There's other elbows with different degree bends and smaller diameters. So make sure you read and get the right one you specifically need!!! This can be bought from eBay or right from a Dodge stealership or other misc websites.

Compressor Elbow link Below:
Compressor Elbows | Product Categories |

BLOW OFF VALVE:
Next I just used the ZZP in house 50mm Blow Off Valve found on ZZP's website. I used the heavier 19" spring if I recall right(It should come with the BOV). It's a V-band and works perfectly as expected.(lube up the O-ring before install)

INTERCOOLER:
For the intercooler I used the ZZP LNF Frount Mount Intercooler I bought with it the silicone elbows because I didn't want to use the stock couplers. I got the the slim version for increased ground clearance as I am on Stance Coils and kinda low. I'd really recommend it if you're low.

LOWER INTERCOOLER PIPE
Now the Lower intercooler pipe I used was Treadstones Lower Intercooler pipe with the MAF relocate in it. As you see on the reviews for any of the LNF lower intercooler pipes for the LNF, they are a nightmare to install at times. It looks like it won't even fit or it's flat out impossible. Calm down there's a solution! I learned to take the front bumper off and unbolt the intercooler so it moves freely, install the lower intercooler pipe first then intercooler itself. This should be done with two people, one holding the intercooler while the other installs the lower intercooler pipe. It'll make it 100x easier and save your hairs from being ripped out. ;)

LOWER INTERCOOLER PIPE INFOFMATION:
This should probably be in with the cold side charge pipe but, you're going to also need the GM stage 1 sensors they are 3-bar sensors which is equal to 43.5 psi. These can be bought on just about any vendors site here on this forum. I just got mine from ZZP with the (2)plug and play harnesses.

WASTEGATE:
Next I used a Tial 38mm external wastegate I bought from Treadstone it's a 2-bolt flange that goes to the manifold.(You can request different options I'd assume from ZZP and Treadstone or just about any other manifold people sell.) I have a 1 Bar spring in there which is (14.5 psi). This is venting to atmosphere. I made my own dump tube out of 1.5" stainless tubing with a 38mm 2 bolt wastegate flange. I bought the two bolt dump tube flange from Summit Racing.

DOWNPIPE/EXHAUST:
Lastly for my downpipe I custom made it and it goes to my TurboXS RFL catback, this was a nightmare because when I bought the kit I didn't see that Treadstone separately sold a downpipe so I decided this was my only option. I needed to make a complete "U" bend within a few inches of space, It was very difficult. But today you can just buy their downpipe. I'm still using the downpipe I made, if you decide to make your own I'm telling you now you'll need to do what's called "Lobster tailing" and miter it. It's just a very annoying process and probably will cost you more than or just as much a Company's downpipe. Either way the downpipe was a pain and took a lot of time and finesse. But take the easy route and buy the same name as your manifold as downpie. I.e. Treadstone manifold, treadstone downpipe or ZZP manifold to ZZP downpipe.(keep it simple & mostly will not work or need editing to work if you mismatch them)

ENGINE MOUNTS:
I'd recommend buying some sort of upgraded engine mounts with any turbo upgrade build. But I bought John Powell's upgraded engine mounts to reduce wheel hop seeing I could pick them up in person in a day.

TUNER/TUNING:
I used Term2 as my tuner, He's great he helped me with the tuning process the entire way I highly recommend him. I'm on 24psi with 93 octane pump gas. And a 100 octane (30+psi) tune coming next spring. I'm completely loving it. I don't know what numbers I'm putting down but it pulls hard. I see just about full spool by 3500-4000rpms. I also rev out to 7250RPMs but shift at 7,000 RPMs. My motor is a completely stock 2.0 LNF with 57,000 miles on it.(there is Wiseco pistons and ZZP 4340 rods in the very short future)

If there is anything people want me to add or I forgot please feel free to post and I will add it.

I don't know if I need a disclaimer for using names but... Here yeah go so all this typing wasn't for nothing.

Disclaimer; I do not own or claim to own any of these products, website, rights or company names I have used above. This is for a learning purpose.