When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I was hoping this would be in your wheelhouse. It is python. I was hoping to keep this thread "mechanical" and put cluster stuff elsewhere, but we can see where this goes.
A few months ago when I originally put the exhaust header on, I noticed one of the studs felt stripped. I needed a new gasket (I destroyed the crappy one that came with the header), so I figured I'd deal with it later using a helicoil. Last week I got my new gasket so I assessed the situation. I thought, maybe I just needed to keep tightening, and I noticed I was using a tension nut. I tightened and it got tight, so much ado about nothing, I thought. Then I backed off all of the nuts to put the new gasket in, and saw that I had backed out the crappy thread repair that a previous owner had tried to perform. Crap. So I got the stuff to put in a threaded insert. I started drilling out the hole today and noticed this:
It looks like when they did the thread repair they busted through the wall to the oil galley in the head. Awesome. I'll put in the insert, hoping that it seals fine and doesn't cause issues. If it does, then it looks like I'd have to get a new head.
Maybe try red rtv, as long as that oil is not under pressure it could get you by. By oil galley, does that mean it's under pressure? Was the previous bolt leaking though?
Damn that looks like the type of problem I would run into. I can't exactly tell what I am looking at in the picture but I'd think if you knew someone who is good at welding aluminum you could weld that hole, grind it smooth, drill and retap.
Maybe try red rtv, as long as that oil is not under pressure it could get you by. By oil galley, does that mean it's under pressure? Was the previous bolt leaking though?
No idea on all accounts. The engine came from a wreck and I haven't started it yet. It doesn't show signs of an oil leak so it's probably fine. I guess I could try some high-temp rtv, I'm just hesitant being so close to the exhaust.
Originally Posted by jdbaugh1
Damn that looks like the type of problem I would run into. I can't exactly tell what I am looking at in the picture but I'd think if you knew someone who is good at welding aluminum you could weld that hole, grind it smooth, drill and retap.
That's probably worth a try if I have issues. It would be tough to get the bottom of that hole welded though. Considering it's just an le5 head it's probably easier and cheaper to get a new one.
welding that would be nearly impossible to do properly.
if you have an air compressor try blowing air in there using a blow nozzle and a rubber tip. put some pressure into it and see if the pressure is bleeding off, that would indicate if its indeed drilled into somewhere it shouldnt be. if it is in fact leaking through i would try using some high temp epoxy. get the hole threaded for the new heli coil, put a little epoxy in the bottom of the hole, coat the outside of the heli coil with epoxy, and use a new stud also coated in epoxy. that should be enough to seal it up.
I've ordered some new studs so I'll fix the hole when those come.
I've done some electrical work. The components in the electrical box are screwed down where I want them.
i attached a battery cutoff switch and have power to the box, and installed a marine battery box.
Pretty big night last night. Got the OBDII DLC connected and power to the ECM so I was able to read the VIN. I saw the VIN belongs to a G6, which is not the best but not a show stopper. I am figuring out that I need to swap the OS to a manual trans OS in order to get the VSS data to show up, so I'm exploring my options on that.
ECM is out getting flashed with an OS for a manual 2.4. last night I decided to repair the threads on the exhaust manifold stud hole. I used one of these:
Tapping went fine. It's the stud closest to the front so there wasn't room to use the tap-turner-thingy, but a 7mm wrench worked. Just had to be careful not to put a big moment in it when starting. I used a nut on a stud screwed into the insert to install the insert. Worked fine. It actually went in much easier than I thought. I'm a little worried it was too easy. Hopefully the red loctite they come with holds. I put some thread sealant on the stud in case the back is open to coolant. It's fairly cheap to replace if something goes terribly wrong.
I broke a couple factory studs off the LE5 head when I was upgrading to ARP studs, of course it was the front two that broke. I made a jig with McCrackster-Car legit drill bushings to ensure they are drilled out on center. I still have this jig if someone wants to rent it =)
ECM is still out getting flashed.
I installed the header. It wasn't fitting at first. I think the reason it fit before was the stud was moving around, but now that it's solid it wouldn't fit. I took the header off and noticed it had been dropped at that corner (before coming to me) and had deformed the hole. I enlarged the hole with my drill (wasn't fun since it's like 3/8" or 1/2" thick steel) and it fits. Hopefully that's all taken care of now, knock on wood.
Been working on clearancing and installing the rear bodywork over the fuel tank. I have the fuel tank on some threaded rods so that I can move it up and down as necessary. The fuel tank is raked pretty severely in the Miata, but the rear bodywork prevents that much rake. It also interferes with the rear subframe if the front of the tank is too low. So i've put as much rake angle in as I can without bashing in the sump of the tank. The end result is you don't get as much usable capacity as stock, so it's just something to account for. I don't think I'll be on enough long trips to really miss the extra gallon or two. This isn't a long cruiser so more fuel stops would be welcome if I needed to drive long distances.
I haven't taken any pictures yet, but I will tonight. The mounting hardware is designed to be riveted onto the strut support and the tank supports. The strut support is probably 1/4" steel, and the tabs don't line up well (one pilot hole is floating), so I welded them in. I should have done it before paint but I didn't think about it. Whatevs. I'm going to rivet the fronts in because the tank support is very thin (maybe 20ga?), so it'll be much easier to match-drill the holes. It would also be easier to move the mounts if I need to in the future (such as making taller mounts to lift the bodywork to get more rake). Pictures when it's done.
Just checking in, glad to see you are moving forward. I know all to well how life throws curveballs at us as we do our projects and I find your project really cool. As much as I look forward to posting pictures of my car roasting the tires I also look forward to seeing your car doing some great burnouts. Keep up the great work,
Short update. Mounted the radiator and a universal fan. I'm hoping the cheap waterproof connectors I bought will hold the amperage. If not, then I'll buy nicer ones. But the wires on the fan itself are 16 or 18awg themselves so I think those would cause issues before the connectors. We'll see.
Drew out where I'm going to cut big holes for my rear lights. Really nervous about actually cutting the fiberglass.
Got the ECM back from getting flashed to a Manual Cobalt 2.4L OS. Been hooking up the last of the wires on that. Barring any technical issues, a running engine by the end of July is totally realistic. After that is cleaning up the harness (loom,etc), finishing lights, building the exhaust, bracing the seats, seat harnesses, attach hood and side panels, make a windshield, and that should be about it to get the car registered. Oct. 1 sounds like a good date to do that. After that, I'll drive until something in the drivetrain breaks and I'll upgrade to the beefier 1.8L Miata parts i'm collecting.
No, it's an aluminum radiator built for a Miata. I would have used the Miata fan but a chain of events meant that the oil pan interfered with the lower screw bosses for the fan. In hindsight, I should have explored how high I could have mounted the radiator, but the mounts are weird and yadda yadda it is what it is.
Minor setback this weekend. I hooked up power to the fuel pump preparing to start this engine soon. I've been testing the circuits as I build them (obviously) and the fuel pump did not make any noise when I turned the key on. Checked continuity, then hooked up power directly to the battery and nada. Sucks because it was working fine when I started this project. However, when I pulled the pump, it looked like this:
This type has a small sock that sits in a bowl in the tank. The sock is completely disintegrated. So I bought a new pump and stuff. I was debating whether or not to upgrade the pump, but the stock pump handles 350hp and I'm not doing that, so I'm just getting an OEM replacement. Still hoping to have the engine running this weekend. I just need to get the new pump in and connect the filter/FPR with hoses at the tank. Oh and I should fix my intake.
05-21-2019, 03:30 PM
Moderator
I enlarged the hole with my drill (wasn't fun since it's like 3/8" or 1/2" thick steel) and it fits. Hopefully that's all taken care of now, knock on wood.
