My Z31 300ZX build
04-07-2015, 01:31 AM
#179
Senior Member
Thread Starter
The best I can tell from where the giant oil slick is, it broke shortly after I went full throttle in 2nd. I wound it up to about 60mph, so that would be 3-4 seconds, I shifted into 3rd and just let it engine brake (break haha!) down to about 45, then pushed the clutch in, which would be another 10 seconds or so.
When I pushed the clutch in it shut off. This is nothing new as I'm still working on fuel cut recovery in the tune. I started it back up and it was clattering pretty bad and that is when I looked at the oil pressure gauge, seen it was 0 and killed the ignition. Honestly didn't hear anything before then, the car is stupid loud from rattling, creaking, wind noise, on top of turbo noises.
When I pushed the clutch in it shut off. This is nothing new as I'm still working on fuel cut recovery in the tune. I started it back up and it was clattering pretty bad and that is when I looked at the oil pressure gauge, seen it was 0 and killed the ignition. Honestly didn't hear anything before then, the car is stupid loud from rattling, creaking, wind noise, on top of turbo noises.
04-07-2015, 02:21 AM
#180
my porsche did the same thing, kinda. pushed the oil filter seal out half way through 2nd gear. judging by how long i saw the fireball, it took about 5 seconds to empty the oil pan. i let it coast as far as i could, fired it back up, drove it off the freeway and shut it off. end result is i fixed the oil filter and topped it up, oil pressure was fine and no noises.
if i were you, id pull the oil pan off in the car. pull the rod caps off one at a time, use a small screwdriver and roll the upper rod bearing out and have a look at it. i doubt its done any real damage, however in a boosted engine i wouldnt take a chance with the rod bearings. if you can get the pan off in the car id just do it this way, no reason to tear the motor out and all apart, id doubt there would be any damage. the clattering you heard would be valvetrain, with no oil pressures and lash adjusters will bleed down and your hearing the rocker hitting the tip of the valve.
if i were you, id pull the oil pan off in the car. pull the rod caps off one at a time, use a small screwdriver and roll the upper rod bearing out and have a look at it. i doubt its done any real damage, however in a boosted engine i wouldnt take a chance with the rod bearings. if you can get the pan off in the car id just do it this way, no reason to tear the motor out and all apart, id doubt there would be any damage. the clattering you heard would be valvetrain, with no oil pressures and lash adjusters will bleed down and your hearing the rocker hitting the tip of the valve.
04-07-2015, 11:59 AM
#181
Senior Member
Thread Starter
It is easier to pull the engine out and do it on an engine stand honestly. It is next to impossible to get the pan off with the turbo on and getting the turbo off in the car is beyond a nightmare.
It is very possible nothing is damaged. I started prepping to pull it this morning. I reached down and felt the turbine, it still spins beautifully and has no play. I would just rather spend the 100 dollars on bearings and the weekend making sure my $5K+ build is safe lol.
It is very possible nothing is damaged. I started prepping to pull it this morning. I reached down and felt the turbine, it still spins beautifully and has no play. I would just rather spend the 100 dollars on bearings and the weekend making sure my $5K+ build is safe lol.
04-11-2015, 12:45 PM
#182
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Got the engine out and bottom end opened up this morning. Damage isn't as bad as I was expecting. Main bearings are scuffed up, the rod bearings took the brunt of the damage. One was loose in the journal like it was about to spin. Going to mic the crank just to be certain it is ok, clean the bottom end out and then put her back together.
04-12-2015, 04:48 PM
#186
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Yeah, we'll be cleaning it all up.
Speaking of cleaning it all up... everything from the cross member to the differential is oil soaked. I bought some oven cleaner to hose it all down with, hopefully that cuts the stuff
Speaking of cleaning it all up... everything from the cross member to the differential is oil soaked. I bought some oven cleaner to hose it all down with, hopefully that cuts the stuff
04-13-2015, 08:01 PM
#188
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Thank you sir! Not sure I'll get it back together this week. Weather looks like crap all week long.
The weekend before my timing belt tensioner failed I was able to do a few runs with my friend in his supercharged z24. On 6psi with my gimped tune I was able to pull on him. Doesn't sound like much but that little car gives my 350z a hell of a run. So that tells me at the current settings it's making around 260whp. At 6psi the turbo isn't even near its efficiency range. It should get interesting when I start throwing boost to it.
The weekend before my timing belt tensioner failed I was able to do a few runs with my friend in his supercharged z24. On 6psi with my gimped tune I was able to pull on him. Doesn't sound like much but that little car gives my 350z a hell of a run. So that tells me at the current settings it's making around 260whp. At 6psi the turbo isn't even near its efficiency range. It should get interesting when I start throwing boost to it.
04-17-2015, 01:22 PM
#189
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Ah the memories, seems like only yesterday I used ugly green to distract from the giant turbo and other mods in the engine bay. I have to say I do like the current iteration better!
04-18-2015, 12:45 PM
#191
Senior Member
Thread Starter
yeah it is amazing what some paint and a little attention to detail will do lol. First time around I was going for function over form, the upside was nobody expected it to be fast. This time around I figured if I'm spending this much money I might as well make it look nice.
Good news today, crank is ok, new bearings are in. Haven't buttoned it up yet though. I had a few things to do to the 350Z to prep it for the Tail of the Dragon. After that I was done. It is stupid humid and hot out so I was like to hell with this mess I'm going back inside
Good news today, crank is ok, new bearings are in. Haven't buttoned it up yet though. I had a few things to do to the 350Z to prep it for the Tail of the Dragon. After that I was done. It is stupid humid and hot out so I was like to hell with this mess I'm going back inside
05-03-2015, 06:24 PM
#193
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I just got it running about an hour ago. Let it idle for about 30 minutes. Everything sounds good. I'm worried I may have shimmed the oil pump bypass to much lol. I'll find out tomorrow when I finish buttoning it up and take it for a ride. Hopefully I don't have to pull the engine again
While it was out I fixed an exhaust leak I had at the v band on the downpipe. I also went ahead and threw 14.5psi worth of spring in the wastegate. I'll likely see 15-16 at the manifold. She should pick up a good deal of power I can't wait to get that dialed in and see how she feels.
While it was out I fixed an exhaust leak I had at the v band on the downpipe. I also went ahead and threw 14.5psi worth of spring in the wastegate. I'll likely see 15-16 at the manifold. She should pick up a good deal of power I can't wait to get that dialed in and see how she feels.
05-09-2015, 05:30 PM
#194
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Took the car to its first Cars and Coffee since the VG33 Megasquirt build. She ran great with exception of the lost sync in boost I'm battling. I picked up my friend John who is a pretty avid J-body tuner. He was impressed with how well the car ran and drove, he gave me an atta boy. He doesn't give those out very often lol. I parked right next to a black Cobalt SS, which one of you ******* was it??
05-15-2015, 10:23 PM
#197
Senior Member
Thread Starter
While I had the engine out I decided to bump the wastegate pressure up to 15psi. I've only gotten one decent pull before this lost sync thing started. It had tons of mid range, like it surprised me, but was kinda anemic up top but I figure that's due to how rich it is and the 10* advance. But now with this lost sync bs I can't go above 35-40% throttle or above 4k rpm without it acting up. Basically lost sync is it losing track of the crank and cam position sensor. So I've been trying to track it down.
Thank you sir. Still tons of bugs to work out and lots of tuning to do!
Last edited by OzzyruleZ; 05-15-2015 at 10:27 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
05-19-2015, 01:36 AM
#198
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I attempted to brake boost the car tonight on the way home. I wanted to see when the lost sync starts happening and also what IAT's look like in prolonged boost. All I managed to do was a giant rolling burnout. I was impressed.
05-19-2015, 02:25 AM
#199
what are you running for a crank trigger wheel? does it seem to be dependent on rpm, or on load? did it have any issues in the same operating range prior to pulling the engine back out to fix it?
if its load dependent (happening with the higher boost) all i can recommend is to make sure your crank and cam sensor wiring doesnt go anywhere near the coils. with the higher cylinder pressures there is more strain on the ignition system to ignite the mixture, and that can cause more emi, and its possible its interfering with the crank/cam sensors.
id start by checking over the wiring, check your sensor gaps, and make sure everything is tight. check your plug wires, make sure there are no nicks in them. also could try tightening up the plug gap.
if its load dependent (happening with the higher boost) all i can recommend is to make sure your crank and cam sensor wiring doesnt go anywhere near the coils. with the higher cylinder pressures there is more strain on the ignition system to ignite the mixture, and that can cause more emi, and its possible its interfering with the crank/cam sensors.
id start by checking over the wiring, check your sensor gaps, and make sure everything is tight. check your plug wires, make sure there are no nicks in them. also could try tightening up the plug gap.
05-19-2015, 12:02 PM
#200
Senior Member
Thread Starter
It is driving me nuts!
I'm using the stock distributor as it has the crank angle sensor built in with a DIYAutotune trigger wheel made specifically for it. I would say it is 90% dependent on load. I can get rpm up to 5-6k as long as I keep the throttle low. It however does it at idle sometimes as well as normal cruising but those are random. Sometimes it will not lose sync once in an hour drive cruising normal. Other times it will do it 10-15 times in a just a few minutes.
I've adjusted the potentiometers today from full CCW to full CW as DIYAutotune advised with no change in its behavior. So now I'm planning on pulling the harness this weekend to go over the solder joints and make sure nothing is damaged. I've already replaced the crank sensor and moved the harness around. The coils are on the strut towers so they are away from harness. The harness does pass over the drivers side plug wires but they are a good 3 inches below it.
I'm using the stock distributor as it has the crank angle sensor built in with a DIYAutotune trigger wheel made specifically for it. I would say it is 90% dependent on load. I can get rpm up to 5-6k as long as I keep the throttle low. It however does it at idle sometimes as well as normal cruising but those are random. Sometimes it will not lose sync once in an hour drive cruising normal. Other times it will do it 10-15 times in a just a few minutes.
I've adjusted the potentiometers today from full CCW to full CW as DIYAutotune advised with no change in its behavior. So now I'm planning on pulling the harness this weekend to go over the solder joints and make sure nothing is damaged. I've already replaced the crank sensor and moved the harness around. The coils are on the strut towers so they are away from harness. The harness does pass over the drivers side plug wires but they are a good 3 inches below it.