so i bought a porsche.......
07-01-2017, 04:57 PM
#251
well, dyno didnt go quite as planned.
its been having a bit of a misfire above 5200rpm, i was expecting that was because how rich it was getting. turns out that its not a rich misfire, the crank signal starts fluttering above 5200. you can watch the logs and it steadily climbs to around 5200, next will be 5280, then 5220, then 5380, etc. sometimes itll clear up after it happens, however when you feel the power drop the first instinct is to lift. i tried tightening up the air gap on the sensor and it made no difference. it does it the exact same rpm every time, nothing changed after a 45 minute cool down. we are going to try another crank sensor, however i have to track one down first. im using one supplied with the ecu from microtech, its just a bosch sensor but i dont know the interchange.
we had another issue with the idle control circuit, ive had it a few times go wide open on me a couple times. it did this again today during idle down after a pull. with the symptoms im having, along with a ground problem i had during the first dyno session last year (brand new piece of 4 gauge ground cable had high resistance, was corroded in the middle of a section) that cause all sorts of issues, my tuner thinks the ecu may be damaged. if thats the case ill have to send it back to australia for repairs, and thatll be the end of my summer.
its been having a bit of a misfire above 5200rpm, i was expecting that was because how rich it was getting. turns out that its not a rich misfire, the crank signal starts fluttering above 5200. you can watch the logs and it steadily climbs to around 5200, next will be 5280, then 5220, then 5380, etc. sometimes itll clear up after it happens, however when you feel the power drop the first instinct is to lift. i tried tightening up the air gap on the sensor and it made no difference. it does it the exact same rpm every time, nothing changed after a 45 minute cool down. we are going to try another crank sensor, however i have to track one down first. im using one supplied with the ecu from microtech, its just a bosch sensor but i dont know the interchange.
we had another issue with the idle control circuit, ive had it a few times go wide open on me a couple times. it did this again today during idle down after a pull. with the symptoms im having, along with a ground problem i had during the first dyno session last year (brand new piece of 4 gauge ground cable had high resistance, was corroded in the middle of a section) that cause all sorts of issues, my tuner thinks the ecu may be damaged. if thats the case ill have to send it back to australia for repairs, and thatll be the end of my summer.
Moderator
Sorry about that. This build made me add a 944 with a potential to swap an LNF onto by radar when I was looking for a weekend car.
07-06-2017, 12:58 AM
#257
honestly i wouldnt be as upset about it had we discovered the issue right away. when i built the car i had the money to deal with it, as of right now i havent worked in almost 9 months. really shouldnt have put the car on the road at all this year, but i was essentially the subject of an intervention and told i should enjoy it now in case in the future i wont be able to.
you can see the burnt diode sitting on the top of the white connector, its supposed to go in the "d17" spot. looking closely it appears it may have heated the board up a bit. my tuner was going to talk to microtech and tell them exactly what happened. basicly waiting for the "yes send it itll be no issue to repair" or the "its likely damaged worse than first meets the eye and it wont be a reliable computer even when fixed so you need a new one".
in the mean time im still fiddling around with it. i decided it was time to fix a couple little things i never sorted out, like the washer fluid tank. when i started the swap the washer tank was the first to go because the massive blob was in the way of the intercooler and charge pipes. washer fluid is one of those things you dont know how much you miss till you dont have it. i recently discovered that 88-91 cars have a smaller tank, however at $100 for a questionable condition tank off ebay i figured id come up with something cheaper. for $10 i picked this little tank up at the local wrecking yard
its from a hyundai accent. came complete with 2 pumps even. it should have no problem fitting behind the bumper on the passenger side, and the neck is 1.5" diameter so if needed i can cut the neck and do what i want with it. i also modded the factory 944 high pressure pump for the headlight sprayers with a bushing to allow it to fit into the new tank.
you can see the burnt diode sitting on the top of the white connector, its supposed to go in the "d17" spot. looking closely it appears it may have heated the board up a bit. my tuner was going to talk to microtech and tell them exactly what happened. basicly waiting for the "yes send it itll be no issue to repair" or the "its likely damaged worse than first meets the eye and it wont be a reliable computer even when fixed so you need a new one".
in the mean time im still fiddling around with it. i decided it was time to fix a couple little things i never sorted out, like the washer fluid tank. when i started the swap the washer tank was the first to go because the massive blob was in the way of the intercooler and charge pipes. washer fluid is one of those things you dont know how much you miss till you dont have it. i recently discovered that 88-91 cars have a smaller tank, however at $100 for a questionable condition tank off ebay i figured id come up with something cheaper. for $10 i picked this little tank up at the local wrecking yard
its from a hyundai accent. came complete with 2 pumps even. it should have no problem fitting behind the bumper on the passenger side, and the neck is 1.5" diameter so if needed i can cut the neck and do what i want with it. i also modded the factory 944 high pressure pump for the headlight sprayers with a bushing to allow it to fit into the new tank.
08-29-2017, 11:18 PM
#260
after a lot of thinking i have decided im going to stick with the non turbo front end. i was planning to swap a 944 turbo/ 944s2 front end, however i didnt like the fact that the turbo front end is the more modern looking urethane bumper and the back is still an old school bolt on bumper, it just doesnt really flow that well for me. the front however needed a lip to finish off the front end. i couldnt find a lip and had a heck of a time finding someone who made anything for the non turbo front end. eventually i ran across a thread on a forum talking about a group buy several years ago on a splitter made by Joe Toth composites. when i looked them up i discovered his shop was about 10 minutes from mine. i happened to mention it to my boss the other day, and when i went to the shop today he handed it to me.
its only propped up right now, i dont have the energy to jack the car up and properly fit it, however so far fitment looks really good. the bolt holes between the side of the bumper to the splitter line up exact, it has mounting provisions to bolt it to the lower rad support, but being i built my own lower rad/intercooler support i have no provisions to bolt it there at the moment.
i think this is what the car needs, itll look even better once i get rid of the dorky 5mph bumpers
its only propped up right now, i dont have the energy to jack the car up and properly fit it, however so far fitment looks really good. the bolt holes between the side of the bumper to the splitter line up exact, it has mounting provisions to bolt it to the lower rad support, but being i built my own lower rad/intercooler support i have no provisions to bolt it there at the moment.
i think this is what the car needs, itll look even better once i get rid of the dorky 5mph bumpers
Last edited by Sharkey; 08-30-2017 at 12:37 AM.
01-03-2018, 03:44 AM
#268
time for a new years update
so i got the ecm back from service last week. bad news is the damaged circuit was only for the idle control, and as that explains the random 2400 rpm idle, they had no explanation for the crank signal problem. im hoping the loose piece floating in the case may have been causing it, but ive grabbed another crank sensor just in case.
the car got put in storage a couple months ago at our shop, and ive been told i can have a hoist for the rest of the week. planning to tackle swapping in the transmission i built almost a year ago, get my splitter properly mounted, and get it running again.
so i got the ecm back from service last week. bad news is the damaged circuit was only for the idle control, and as that explains the random 2400 rpm idle, they had no explanation for the crank signal problem. im hoping the loose piece floating in the case may have been causing it, but ive grabbed another crank sensor just in case.
the car got put in storage a couple months ago at our shop, and ive been told i can have a hoist for the rest of the week. planning to tackle swapping in the transmission i built almost a year ago, get my splitter properly mounted, and get it running again.
01-04-2018, 12:05 AM
#269
one step forward, 8 steps back. got the car running again, that all went pretty smooth. ecm still had the tune loaded in it so it fired up like it always does. i swapped transmissions out, everything went great till it came to run it. initially it was fine, ran through the gears ok, then i started to hear a squeak noise with the clutch out. shut it down, checked everything over and couldnt see anything, topped the oil up and tried it again. had the same squeak for a couple seconds followed with a loud bang that stalled the motor. after some looking, and fighting to get the drive coupler undone, it appears something in the trans broke and locked it up.
guess tomorrow i get to pull it back out and apart.
guess tomorrow i get to pull it back out and apart.
01-04-2018, 07:36 PM
#274
well, it wasnt the end of the world. pulled the trans back out today, got the end plug out and found no oil whatsoever at the rear mainshaft bearing, just a bunch of dry metal shavings. after getting the rear housing off i found not much oil in the back around 5th gear. after disassembling the bearing i found it had piled the cage up between the ***** and the outer race. at least with the lack of oil the metal stayed in one place, there was no shavings in the oil i drained.
all i can really come up with is that when i ran the car in gear it filled the cooler and left the rear dry, although i should have at least had oil residue in the back end. i had wanted to fill the cooler up with oil before i put the trans in but the oil didnt show up in time.
worst part is i was unable to find that bearing, tried the porsche and audi dealers and they both laughed at me. i ended up pulling the back of the old trans apart and stealing the bearing, it looked to be in good shape. could have ordered a new bearing for next week, but i really didnt want to wait a week, nor do i want to pay $300 for a dam bearing. cars all back together and the trans seems to be fine.
all i can really come up with is that when i ran the car in gear it filled the cooler and left the rear dry, although i should have at least had oil residue in the back end. i had wanted to fill the cooler up with oil before i put the trans in but the oil didnt show up in time.
worst part is i was unable to find that bearing, tried the porsche and audi dealers and they both laughed at me. i ended up pulling the back of the old trans apart and stealing the bearing, it looked to be in good shape. could have ordered a new bearing for next week, but i really didnt want to wait a week, nor do i want to pay $300 for a dam bearing. cars all back together and the trans seems to be fine.