Can you do both fueling and timing based on individual cylinders?

yes i can. i can also monitor knock on individual cylinders.

i picked up the start of next winters upgrades

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/HO...=w1605-h903-no


thats a t56 transaxle from a c6 vette. this particular one is from a z51, its has a wide ratio gearset and has a pump for a transmission cooler. it is from a 2005, its sort of a one year only transaxle, its a carry over from the c5 corvette, but has the c6 style mounts. in 2006 the corvette got the tr6060 (the next evolution of the t56) and a stronger diff. i figure this will take anything ill throw at it, and if it doesnt there is plenty of aftermarket support.

right now im planning to pull it all apart and have a good look through it. at the very least ill likely throw in a steel 3-4 fork, brass fork pads and a set of billet syncro keys. im going to swap in a set of 4:10 gears into the diff.

ill start collecting the rest of the stuff for the swap over the summer. i have most of it figured out, the only real unknown is what im going to do for axles. i have some ideas in mind, but im going to have to get things mocked up in the car before i know what will work.

after nearly 5 months of trying i finally have a better set of cams

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6S...g=w509-h903-no

i managed to stumble across a set of the gm race cams. these are actually comp cams 8766 and 8767 grinds on billet cores. specs are 247/249 duration at 0.050 and 0.499" lift. its a little big for what i want, im a little worried about streetability, but i guess go big or go home.

Very nice. Billet cores probably tacked on a little premium I would imagine?

Is that transmission a common swap for these or are you gonna have to build some parts to make it fit?

funny story on the cams, the guy i bought them from told me they were just comps version of the gm race cams, and we agreed on a price based off the price of the gm cams. the gm race cams are cast core, and i had no idea these were billet cores, so opening the box was a nice surprise.

the corvette transaxle swap has been done in a 944, but its far from a common swap. it requires significant amounts of cutting the car up to make it happen, so most people shy away from it. this is actually why i originally went with the 944 turbo transaxle. im planning my swap differently that almost all of the t56 swapped cars that im aware of, most of the swaps end up putting the entire corvette cradle and suspension in the car, but in the end that requires fender flares at a minimum, or a full widebody fender. as the 944 is already a widebody 924, the flare on a flare thing just looks weird. im planning to stick with the porsche trailing arm suspension, remove the torsion bars and modify the torsion bar tube.

on top of the chassis work, i also have to mate the corvette torque tube to the ecotec. ive already drawn up an adapter plate, but ill have to get the car apart and measure everything before i can have it cut (unsure of the thickness). clutch should be quite simple, the solstice uses the same input shaft size as the t56, so ill get a spec 3+ disc for a 2.4l solstice and everything should work there. like i mentioned above, axles are still up in the air, and thats because i have several options. i can get a bolt on cv flange for the corvette transaxle, use an adapter on that to allow me to run my current 100mm cv joints and then just get a shorter axle bar. i can adapt the outer stub shaft to a 930 cv joint, then go up to a 930 cv axle with those same flanges on the transaxle (this is likely the strongest). the 3rd option is that i can adapt the stub axle in the car to 930 cv joints and make a combination of a porsche cv on one end and the corvette inner tripod joint on the other. this is actually real easy as the corvette joint uses the same spline as the porsche 930 joint. either way, i cant order any axle parts till the trans is mounted in the car and i can measure everything up, so ive got lots of time to decide.

Sucks for that guy he didn't know what he had but an awesome score for you. Kind of makes you curious how he acquired them in the first place. They are new old-stock too correct?

I wish we had more options for rwd clutches besides spec

they are used, in fact, they have run 6.30s in the 1/4 mile im told. may have even been used for one of the record setting pases.

a clutch is a clutch, it doesnt care what direction the engine is facing. im not really sure what brands are out there for the solstice as i dont pay a lot of attention to them, but i see several options at a quick glance. i run spec in this car simply because its what was attached to the engine when i got it back. we used this spec pressure plate nearly 15 years ago when this engine was built, and to keep cost under control when i swapped it into the 944 i just got a spec disc to match the pressure plate. spec isnt my favorite clutch (not a fan of the pedal feel and they are a bit chattery), but ive never had any issues with it. ideally id like to run a twin disc when i do the trans swap, but seeing im going to build another short block in the future, and it may end up using a 2.0l crank, i dont want to have to buy flywheels to fit my current 6 bolt crank, and then later buy an 8 bolt flywheel. ill likely just stick with the single disc for now.

Well it does matter a bit because the fwd input shaft is much smaller. There are far fewer options for a kappa than there are for a delta.

if your trying to get an off the shelf clutch for a specific application, then yes, it matters. if you want a specific brand and the company doesnt make it, you just need to make something work. for example, with the kappa you could run a cobalt flywheel, get the pressure plate for x company to match the flywheel, and tell them you want a disc thats 26 spline 1 5/32". stick it together, measure your slave depth and adjust that as needed, and away you go.

so this is a familiar sight

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0

this past monday was our shops official opening, and with not planning to have many cars in the shop my boss told me to bring the car in and work on it in the evenings. that was good for the first day it was there, since then we have had more work than expected. i plan to work on the car and end up working on jobs instead. ive managed to get about half way done the cam swap, ive got the valve lash set on both cams, and the intake cam degreed. with things back under control im hoping tomorrow i can get the exhaust cam degreed in and the car back together.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0

guess i cant complain too much, a couple of our first jobs were on a syclone and typhoon

Isn't that the way it always goes? Plan to have time to your own stuff just to have work explode and have no spare time at all? That's why the outside of my house badly needs a paint job.

I see you put the cam gear holder to work. That motor looks like it was designed to be in that car.

yea the proper cam gear holder works so much better than my home made one. thanks again.

got it finished off today in between some other stuff. it fired right up and idled, but took a lot of work on the tune to get it idling decent. only drove it around the block and then home from the shop, and that was all just correcting the ve table. i did shut off the boost control solenoid so it would default to wastegate, and pulled a couple degrees timing just to be safe. the one time i did get on it it felt like a bit of a slug, but 13 psi will do that when your used to 22. i was a bit concerned about driveability as the duration is kinda spicy, but other than some slight surge on decel (im sure that will go away once i refine the tune and re-enable decel fuel cut) it drives fine.

i gotta say, it does sound pretty cool. here is a really bad video, ill try and grab something better tomorrow

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...VhT0F2S3NDZXZB

That does sound nice. :thumb:

Sounds nice and loppy :twothumbs

Sounds nice. What RPM are you idling at?

my idle target is 1050 rpm, but its kind of up and down between 950-1100 rpm now. i need to iron out some of the tune and then i can go through the painful process of setting up the idle control PID algorithm again, i should be able to get it to stay with 25 rpm of the target.

spent a little time getting the tune dialed on low boost, at least till i got bored. turned the boost control back on, added some timing back, and then it got real easy to hit the rev limiter, so i upped that as well. now shifting at 8500. it sounds really cool with the rpm that high.

havent really been able to do a whole lot more on the car as far as tuning. a few weeks back i ended up with a piece of hot metal in my eye, and it took a couple weeks before i was able to be outside without being in pain, so the car sat parked. following that the alternator in my cobalt died (one i put in back in january) and it took a week for my parts guy to track one down, so i had to daily the 944, and i decided it was best to leave it alone so i didnt have 2 broken cars and no way to work.

during that time i did get something ive been wanting for quite a while.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0

my previous injectors, id850s, were reaching 85% duty cycle (and thats with 70/30 meth), and ive been itching to play with flex fuel so an upgrade was needed. the new injectors are id1700xds. i was really wanting to go with the 1300cc injectors because i was worried about the idle quality on gas with the 1700s, but the reality is i would likely be able to max them out on e85 with the current combination, and i want some head room for the future.

i do love having good injector data, its one of the reasons i spend the extra on injectors. put all the data into the megasquirt and the car fired right up like i hadnt changed a thing. it went through warmup just like it always does, and once warm it was idling at the same air/fuel ratio as it did prior. ive yet to drive it as it started raining right after i finished changing the injectors, but i really dont anticipate having to do much fuel tuning on gas. hoping i can drive it a bit tomorrow to do any clean up on the tune, as well as burning off the rest of the gas in the tank. i still have to swap fuel pumps. some may remember i originally started out with an aem 380lph pump, and after having cavitation issues and the pump heating up after long drives i swapped it for a genuine bosch 044. this didnt solve the problem, ultimately that was caused by the fuel filter, meaning my 380lph pump is still good. its more suited to ethanol, so its gotta go back in.

Syclone and Typhoon :eek:

yep. now ive got the same customers grand national on the hoist.

That customer has great taste! Does he have an LNF in his collection of factory boosted GM cars?

nope. he does have a c7r corvette though, a malibu corvette boat (1 of 25), a pretty nasty ford lightning, and a few others

i gotta say, ethanol FTW

got my fuel pump changed this morning, and then picked up a couple jerry cans of "e85". was a little disappointed to see its only roughly 58% ethanol. amazingly enough after setting up all the flex fuel stuff in the megasquirt it fired up almost instantly. spent a bit of time doing short pulls trying to get the e85 fuel table roughed in, went and filled the tank and started having some fun. i cant believe the difference in mid range, its insane. honestly feels like i added another 5 psi boost. my fueling is still rough and on the rich side and it doesnt seem to care. i have yet to even increase the timing, im still at a rather conservative 16 degrees at roughly 20 psi.

cant wait to get this more dialed in.

Nice pickup! That ethanol content is way low for E85. Some flex fuel pumps that aren't E85 labeled are closer to 50% ethanol.

it is way low. i noticed the pump was labeled "flex fuel" and stated content is 51%-83%. others are saying it tests at 61-63% right now, so it my have been that i still had more gas in the tank then i figured. its pretty well my only source, im hoping they are maybe just running through winter stock (like other stations are running through winter blends of gas and diesel because of the covid shutdown) and it will get better.

Did you buy the E85 in Aldergrove?

yea that was at the co-op at 248th.

You guys get some low E content up there... When I fill up, its always between 78-82% year round. Both my local stations are very consistent even though they are 2 different brands.

well, we dont have much access to ethanol up here at all. 3 stations in the entire province. one has e85 that tests e85 year round, however its 25 cents more per liter than pump premium (right now its $1.65 per liter, to compare it works out to about $4.70 usd per gallon). there are 2 other pumps, both owned by the same company and get their ethanol from the same source.

we also have really crappy gas up here. our pump 94 is less resistant to knock than american 91.

That price is crazy. Normally e85 here is close to the same price as regular, or around $2 a gallon.

that price is mostly because they stock a lot less product, and its pretty much your "race grade" e85.

flex fuel is much cheaper, it was 86 cents/l ( about $2.40 usd per gallon).

Our pumps are "flex" fuel or minimum of e70 or they mark it as e50/e30/etc.

in canada all they have to do is mark it "flex fuel" and "51-83% ethanol"

Please clarify, at the 248th co-op do they have a race grade E85?

co-op at 248th is flex fuel. by law its between 51-83%. right now tests at just barely 60% ethanol.

only place to get actual e85 in the lower mainland is northside petroleum, and from what ive read, they have been running low on it of late.

That is disappointing, unfortunate the governing bodies don't understand the different between 51% and 80% is signficant

Add one degree of timing they said. itll be fun they said...

ok so it was fun till i found the limits of my clutch. took the car out for a rip today, had made some significant changes in the tune to step it up. felt pretty dam good till i rolled onto it in 2nd gear at around 45 mph, it spooled and started heading straight for the limiter. i thought it lit the tires till i looked at the log. so that now ends my quest for power for the year, ill back it down a bit so i can enjoy the car for the rest of summer. im not putting a clutch in it now as its gotta be changed when i put the t56 in this winter.

anyone know who does a twin disc for a 6 bolt crank? all i can seem to find for ecotec twins is 8 bolt flywheels for the 2.0l. im going to have to have the discs swapped for my spline count, but from past experience thats never an issue, but having a custom flywheel machined can be quite a pain.

How do you know its slipping? Just by looking at rev vs speed increase?