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Detailing 101
Ok so a lot of you guys have been asking what i use, what i do and so on. so i will get to a how to on a full detail with pictures, but for right now here is a list of stuff that i use. this is all a preference from what i like and what ive used over the years of detailing. i don't use much meguires anymore. i am using these 3 companies, Jax wax, Chemical Guys, and Shine Supply. Adams i used to use but a previous experience put a bad taste in my mouth. Griots is also a good company which you can get at pep boys, advanced auto, and autozone. ) Supplies: Microfiber towels: Get a regular set of towels from walmart or something to help with the interior cleaning and tires. i have links for the other towels i recommend. Get a fresh microfiber wash mit from walmart. they are super soft. Now i use a foam cannon that attaches to a pressure washer, but shine supply, jax wax and chemical guys make one that attaches to your garden hose. so i will do this for a foam cannon. The one from shine supple is $38, to me that's the best bang for the buck (https://shinesupply.com/products/garden-hose-foam-gun). Soap: Get a foam soap from any of the companies. i like all the foam soaps. I am currently using Mr.Pink from chemical guys (Great foam and coats the car nicely). Now some of you are probably thinking, well what about if the car is hot or the sun is out. yes you need to be careful but, the newer soaps have a great pH balance so it wont be as bad as years before with washing in the sun. i would still prefer to wash it in the shade. Buckets/Wash: Yes, i said buckets in plural. you will need two buckets. one with some car soap and the other the rinse bucket. i cant stress enough to get grit guards as well. i have 2 of these (https://store.jaxwax.com/Grit-Guard-...ducts-p/gg.htm). these will trap the dirt that you are wiping off your car. do one panel at a time and then dip your mit into the rinse bucket, and back into the soap bucket. this will trap all the dirt at the bottom and allow for a swirl free wash. Also, you dont have to sit there and scrub or push super hard. if you cant get it off, try the clay bar when you are done drying. for example, bugs, dont scratch your paint just to remove a bug. get the clay rag out and remove it with that. You can either do your wheels first, which is what i do, that way i dont have to worry about getting water on a clean car again. you can get a good wheel/tire cleaner like this (https://store.jaxwax.com/product-p/juwc16.htm). This will help break down all the break down the break dust and contaminants. If you haven't detailed your car in a very long time, it would be wise to use some iron decon (https://store.jaxwax.com/Jax-Wax-Iro.../fedecon16.htm). if you havent detailed your car in a long time or ever, wash your car first. While the car is still wet and make sure its cool to the touch spray this on the car and let it sit for about 5 min, it will turn purple. the color change is all the paint contaminants that are stuck to the paint. this will help with the clay barring later on. you will use your wash mit to rub it in gently and then i get a bucket of soap, water, grit guard and i wash the car again. Drying: Next is the biggest thing people don't realize. drying your car will cause swirls. proper drying towels is the biggest thing here and i cant stress it enough! BUY A GOOD DRYING TOWEL(S). i have used a couple towels and the ones that i find work the best are the ones that are very plush and the GSM (Grams per Square Meter) count is really high! Anything above 500 GSM would suffice for drying but the towels i use are no longer made so ill put in a link of what id buy. (https://www.theragcompany.com/the-do...st-loop-towel/) it may leave some lint at first but after the first use it will be ok. you can always wash it too. Once you have detailed your car, the next time you wash it and you go to dry it, use the Jax Wax Hawaiin Shine Spray Wax that i have a link for in the door jams sections. Spray this on while the car is still wet. this will help pick up any missed dirt, help to reduce swirls even more, and best of all add about 2-4 weeks of protection as well. Interior: I always pull my mats out and clean them separately. Hoping you all know how to use a vacuum, i will that part up to you guys lol. get yourself a horse hair brush set ( ) After everything is wiped down and cleaned i will use a product from chemical guys called VRP (Vinyl, Rubber, Plastic) https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/images/misc/amazon_icon.gif" border="0" alt="Amazon" /> Amazon i then take a wax applicator pad and apply this on all the plastics inside the car. then go after it with a microfiber towel and even it out if needed. it is dry to the touch and does an amazing job at protecting the plastics from the sun and dirt. leather treatment, use the fabric clean and a horse hair brush to clean it and then get a leather conditioner. i use this stuff from jax wax but any leather conditioner will work good. (https://store.jaxwax.com/Jax-Wax-Lea...-Oz-p/lm16.htm) Door jams: Use a microfiber towel and wipe down the door jams. I like using this stuff to wipe them down (https://store.jaxwax.com/Jax-Wax-Haw...-Oz-p/hs16.htm) shit is amazing!!! Exterior: Now, everybody thinks its hard to use a clay bar. its not, at all. i just don't like using them because if you drop it, you need to throw it away. there are new products out now called clay mit/rag https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/images/misc/amazon_icon.gif" border="0" alt="Amazon" /> Amazon ). this is the one i use. i absolutley love this thing, if you drop it or when your are done using it, run it under water and hang it up to dry! done! its good for about 40-50 uses so to me its amazing! Detail Spray, this product is like the car soap, everybody makes it and theres no bad product. because i go through a lot of it, this is one of the 2 products from meguires i buy https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/images/misc/amazon_icon.gif" border="0" alt="Amazon" /> Amazon ) Spray this one a section of the car, use your clay mit/rag and you'll instantly feel the difference. remember to keep flipping your pad as well. wipe off with a clean microfiber towel. Paint correction: (i will go more in depth when i get to do my car and post pictures!) Buffer: https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-5...her-69924.html This buffer, is awesome! it works great and i have had it now for 2 years! their pads that they supply work pretty good too, but if you get them get the black and blue. stay away from the orange one. if you have ever heard of Sudz Box they make a fantastic 2 step kit for $40 or so (https://sudzbox.com/collections/exte...nt-revival-kit) i have used this multiple times and its amazing! I have stepped up my game and started using Shine Supply Classic Cut (https://shinesupply.com/products/classic-cut) though paired with a meguires microfiber finishing pad. The finishing pad paired with the classic cut or the sudz box delete, will give you nice cut from the product but not the headache of using an actual cutting pad. you want to work this in slowly on speed 6. for instance you make one pass down, the next pass back, drop down half a pad size. this way you are covering half of what you just did and startign a fresh section as well. wipe clean to see the results, the pad will get built up and seem stiff, take a horse hair brush to your buffer or an hard bristle brush and clean the pad after each panel is done. this will assure a clean pad and that you aren't making marks in the paint because of the build up on the pad. then after i do the classic cut i will go after it with the sudz box revive (purple stuff) using a blue pad from harbor freight or another finishing pad form meguires, it will help remove any marks left behind from the classic cut. it may leave small swirls but don't worry, the revive will remove that. if you don't feel comfortable doing the paint correction just do the revive, it will remove some minor marks and bring the gloss out to make the car really pop either way put this on and work it in on speed setting 4-5. With this 2 step process, expect to see atleast 70-80% of the swirls and marks removed from your paing. The last step, change to another pad to apply the wax. any finishing pad is nice, i even use the black one from harbor freight, its soft and works great. this wax that i use will last up to a year (https://store.jaxwax.com/Jax-Wax-Che...-Oz-p/cw16.htm). i absolutely love this stuff! you put 4-5 pea size drops on your pad and then spread it onto the car. this stuff doesn't need to be worked in like the compounds do. i put this on using speed setting 3 on the buffer. you can do the whole entire car with this and then come back and wipe it off. with the 3 steps here use a nice clean microfiber towel. the ones i use the company doesn't sell anymore, i used to buy from microfiber tech but they changed some stuff up. so, i would get these towels https://www.theragcompany.com/value-bundle-eagle-edgeless-600-16-x-16-towel-grey-5-pack/[/url] Tires/Wheel Well: Use the VRP that you used on the inside for the plastic and use a tire applicator pad https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/images/misc/amazon_icon.gif" border="0" alt="Amazon" /> Amazon ) put this on the tire and then wipe off the excess with a microfiber towel. I also bought some of this stuff to spray in the wheel wells https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/images/misc/amazon_icon.gif" border="0" alt="Amazon" /> Amazon ) You dont have to buy the whole pack but thats what i bought, works great to spray in wheel wells and the engine bay. Clean-Up: Heres a huge thing as well. The microfiber towels can be washed. throw them in the washer with your detergent. Run with warm water, i usually do an extra rinse to make sure all the soap is rinsed out. After they are washed, put them in the dryer and RUN ON EASY CARE/MEDIUM HEAT AND NO DRYER SHEETS. drying them on regular heat will ruin the microfibers as well as the dryer sheets. Buffer Pads, use dish soap and work it in the pad really well while running it under warm water and rinse until the soap is completely gone. then just let them air dry I WILL UPDATE THIS THREAD WHEN I GET PICTURES AND I WILL ALSO GO MORE IN DEPTH WITH THE PAINT CORRECTION PART. IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS, JUST ASK. I DID THIS AT WORK SO IM SURE I MISSED SOME STUFF. |
You actually followed through on something :lol:
Joking aside, this is a nice write-up. Next time you go through the process, you should take some pics and add them to this. Always nice to have visuals versus a wall of text. EDIT: If I read the last sentence... THERE IS NO SPOON |
Ohh snap he did it
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hahaha i told you i would get to it, but i just needed some time to do it. like i said, i will get to the pictures but, i know a lot of you guys except you southerns, want to clean your cars after our winter. so this is a little guide to help you out.
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This needs to be stickied.
Most people don't know the first steps with it comes to washing their car. |
do you guys like how i have the links in thread or should i put them in a list? or do both?
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i prefer links in the thread like that
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Looks good like that! I'll go over it soon
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good write up.
But are you certified? Do you have any references or framed certificates? |
Originally Posted by 07blackg5
(Post 7688444)
good write up.
But are you certified? Do you have any references or framed certificates? ummmmmmm, no??? i can get one though!! my momma said i was certified though so i thought that was enough |
be sure to post a picture of it when you get it
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Dude. Nice write up!
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Originally Posted by 96S1
(Post 7688495)
Dude. Nice write up!
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you guys still use water?
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Originally Posted by 07MetallicSC
(Post 7688550)
you guys still use water?
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primative lol
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