Oh, are you talking about keeping the stock top bumpstop from dislodging? Yeah, that's tricky...

 

right, cause on the rear the shock and spring arent together like on the front.

 

Well, I mean more that the bump stop may not fit tightly into the spring, since the linear spring may be wound too large. I think you'll be okay as long as there's an appropriate tender/helper. As long as it's not too small, you'll be fine. If you need to increase the diameter of the seat, I'm sure you can come up with something to wrap the bump stop with.

Maybe you should have a chat with Scott Herbert. I seem to recall he gave up on the idea of a helper/tender, but IMO, I think it would be ideal to run with one to prevent any unseating issues.

 

btw - since you're going linear in front anyways, GC has a Cobalt specific camber plate that fits and works with 2.5" springs.

 

hmm i looked on their site and they dont list a cobalt top mount.

 

i might be able to getaway without a helper because the spring will have less initial sag then the progressive spring. might have to add in the difference in lenth of the spring with the rear spring perch.

i may have to get under the car and look cause i cant see how a helper would work on the rear. that or im thinking too much :P

 

Try www dot oakos dot com

They are local here in Detroit and they handle full line of Whiteline parts for Subies.


BTW I like the Team Dynamics rims. A local Rallycrosser in Detroit is the importer for BRAID wheels from UK and is also a Team Dynamics dealer.

www dot teamilluminata dot com

 

get a new car i see? Red balt?

Yeah thats where i got my wheels from

 

Nope same Sport Red Tint Coat one I ran last year.

After seeing that Hoosier just upped their prices again I'm starting to consider a STX build now to play with locally. Might do that later in the year after we get everything set with our FSP Neon. Plus the cost of the tires for FSP is way more friendly especially being we can get 80-100 on the fronts before cording.

 

really? hmm i thought you co drove the balck one? That or i am mistaking you for someone else lol.

Thats why im going to STX.

 

Hey answer me this: theoretically, you want the rear sway bar proprtionatly stout-if you are trying to correct understeer?
You want to sort of throw the back end around? For lack of a better way to put it.
Do you have any advice for an old STX racer? It is changing this year to just XT or something , right?

Did you get fed up with Dstock? I read about the ruined Hoosier Tires. I have yet to run the real slicks, but have been out paced by some STI and others in D Stock before. I am wondering if my steering knuckles will help when I finally put them in?

P.S.: do the Nitto 5 and the Kuhmo or Azenis function well enough to merit the prices?

 

I dont think it has changed to XT but I could be wrong. All I know is ST is now two classes, STC and STF to allow the newer small cars to be competitive.

I wasnt fed up with Dstock, just paying 600bucks for 2 tires that lasted 12 runs at nats. To me thats not acceptable!

This will be my 1st time in STX, but I have run STU and STS so im not sure what advice I could give you.

 

In DS changing the rear sway bar is a band aid. We can't change spring rates so you do what you can do with the changes you can make. I know of some stock class guys that run so much rebound the car fully rides on the bump stops on all 4 corners. Extremely hard to drive but very fast for the right car and driver combo. As this is a new rule for 2012 no one really knows what the correct setup will be. I think the balance of power in some classes is going to change drastically...but time will tell.

I hope you mean WRXs and not STIs. STIs are all in AS.

I am not fed up with DS and absolutely love that fall in this class. They are small econo cars with big engines. What I would do differently is NEVER two driver a set of front tires. It's the heat from two drivers that just kills them. I think you can get 30-40 runs on a set of fronts depending on the surface if only one driver. Still not a ton of runs but that's what you are stuck with in Stock when you aren't allowed to add more front camber. I hear the MINI S and ITRs are under 20 runs even with flipping them.

What steering knuckles are you talking about? I'm not even sure changing steering knuckles is legal in STX and I know it's not in Stock.

As far as tires there are a ton of debates. For a Cobalt sized car stay away from the Toyos. They will over heat and even in normal driving do not last long. The "hot" street tire with the heavier cars appears to be the Hankook unshaved. From what I have heard is the Hankook is horrible in the wet and cold. When GRM did there test this was confirmed. They also confirmed that Dunlop is better in the wet. So it seems the Dunlop is the best all around/Daily driver tire.

With all the changes to STX for 2012 it will be interesting to see if there is a preferred tire for a heavy FWD car.

 

as i get my parts list together and getting parts in i start to look to next season. With no ruins on the new setup my inital plan if i keep the car would be Down pipes and catback.

A tune is on the list but finding someone to tune to the rules will always be an isse i think.

I have been looking in the LNF section and it seems some people dont do tunes when they do a turbo back exhaust... Why is that? When i had my STI if you did a turbo back you HAD to get some sort of tune.

 

Well, having come from an EJ25 myself, I can say that the LNF is much more advanced, and isn't nearly as fragile. We have a real wideband built in, and the LTFT/STFT should be enough to compensate for the minor change that a downpipe would cause. Intake is a totally different story...

 

I see. Well I have no plan for an intake cause most are junk and based on the tune I would have to run there wouldn't be much of an advantage. Good to know I can get a turbo back without a tune. Saves some money :p

 

It does help some up top, like over 5k. If you want a budget fix, get the ZZP intake tube, which doesn't swap out the entire intake, just the more restrictive elbow from the turbo to the intake.

 

good call. Start my new parts list lol. If the funds are there i still may get a catback.

 

As to a LNF tune I guess my question is more from my road racing background. The Soltice GXP is classed for Road Racing in T2. They have to run the stock intake and can remove the cat with a "test pipe." They are also permitted an aftermarket radiator. You are allowed to alter the ECU. So you can run any tune. With whatever tune they are using they are producing close to or over 400hp.

The Cobalt SS/TC is in T3 and is under the same overall rule sets but has to run a 35mm restictor.

So I guess the question is what tune do they use? I forget what the other LNF forum is but that would be a good question to ask Powell.

 

Why dont you just run R6's in the front and A6's in the back like those of us in SMF? 275 R6's in the front and 205 A6's in the back is going to be my tire setup once I have the money in the summer.

Also, tune, the LNF's dont have to with a catback because GM makes the best factory ECU's in the business. I know you're talking about getting a 300+ hp tune in the lnf for road racers, there's a couple problems with that. First is that the road racers when pushing the amount of spark advance needed for that will be knocking at the end of long straights. But then if you want to translate that tune into auto-x you will have to be in SP, P, or SM(f) because it would require increasing the boost.

 

We tried the R6s on the Cobalt in DS and they didn't last any longer. I'll dig up some pics and post them as it's just one area of the sidewall that gets torn apart. Now on our FSP Neon the R6s up front does appear to last a bit longer.

I also should have added that if I were to run DS I would run 245 Kumhos at local events and Purple Crack when it counts the most.

Ok thread jack done back to STX.

Here's the interesting part about the Cobalt though. Stock boost is set at 23psi. Most people will never see 23psi due to the the ECU. So if the ECU is re-programmed to give the full 23psi is that illegal? You are basically disabling the torque learn.

Back to my original comment back on I think page one...what is not legal about the Trifecta tune?

 

Hey BA89,
I thought you could as you say use a tune to disable the learn down feature of Chevy's ECU as a given in STX, but Leafy--correct me here--that may be only allowed for Street Prepared yes?

I don't think i'll be buying the $300 Hoosier A or R6. So what about your Nitto N5 or another agressive blocked street tire? Azenis.. The "Steering Rack Spacers" are an OTTP product only $20 or so. Supposed to raise the steering to account for lowering spring issues.
not knuckles-wrong term
What is Purple Crack? To me it sounds like the front teeth some of my ER patients have!!
Hey how can anyone really Not try and overcome the limits of the Stock ECU...at just 260hp?
I know it ran the last couple of seasons with more power than traction, but still seams like it would help.

 

Purple crack is hoosiers.

You can do whatever you want to do to the tune except for change the boost control table. Though if anything you do in the tune increases the boost otherwise then its ok. So you could go on the fuzzy ground and crank the dal's up and leave the waste gate table stock and theoretically unless you had an lnf tuner do the protest on you no one would ever even know. AND I'm not even sure thats illegal anyways.

 

Been discussed here many times. Changing DAL is a direct attempt to modify boost. What do you think we did in HPT before we had access to the WG tables to get more boost?

You can play fuzzy or play fair, but if you're playing fair, I would come armed with a laptop for protests

 

Yeah, its questionable. BUT the guy who wins is the one who can cheat the most and not get caught.