Cobalt STX Build
i may run into some issue with the hypercoil springs. A ruler is not a good tool to measure the spring ID lol. On the KW spring perches with a rulwer they measurelittle more the 2 1/4" and just under 2 1/2". So the Delema, if i go with a 2-1/4 ID spring I can get a 9" tall spring and that will be perfect.
If i go with a 2-1/2" ID spring I cant get a 9" spring, only 10" and 8" springs. 10" wont be an issue for the front as i can move the position of spint perch down. The rear is a different issue. Ill get some pick up later this wee to also show what I am talking about.
If i go with a 2-1/2" ID spring I cant get a 9" spring, only 10" and 8" springs. 10" wont be an issue for the front as i can move the position of spint perch down. The rear is a different issue. Ill get some pick up later this wee to also show what I am talking about.
60MM ID x 9" Length - Swift Springs
Swift, the best springs out there right now.
KW is a European country. They scoff at the silly English measurement system.
60MM ID x 9" Length - Swift Springs
Swift, the best springs out there right now.
60MM ID x 9" Length - Swift Springs
Swift, the best springs out there right now.
Can you tell me that link you posted, is that a trusted site? I just wana make sure cause I was looking on evasive motorsports for springs but i like how this one is set up with info. Also just had my CC stolen when i bought a hitch for the cobalt lol.
still waiting to get a hold of some scales to find what rates to use.
Sounds promising. What are you going to run for dampers on that? I think you're either going to be high in the adjustment range of those KW's if you're even on the chart at all. Might have to send them out to get re-valved.
I still need to find time this weekend when I am watching the Rolex 24 to read my suspension book and dial some numbers in to make sure those will work for the car.
BTW I cant wait for the Rolex 24! All 24 hours will be on speed!! its sweet!
Dont forget the articles on optimum g. I think they make it really easy to understand all of the springs and damper stuff in your book in like 10 pages of reading. I would suggest you just do the math out for the damper curves and plead KW to give you their shock dyno charts.
They're probably similar to Konis, which is going to put the fronts a little over optimal. I'd try to stick under 600 for off the shelf shocks/struts. Peronally, I would also stick with more rear than front spring. It's a proven formula for FWD cars that wanna go fast. It's a little different than picking spring rates based on corner weight alone.
I'm pretty sure KW doesn't release dynos
Koni does, but you have to talk to the right person 
Leafydialupking: Yes, those rates are no where near high enough for full blown Honda race cars. I ran 1200lb/in in the rear of my ITR
It's tough to compare though, because motion ratios are different, and Cobalts have a built in swaybar, and the entire rear suspension itself is a swaybar. You could say we have 3 swaybars, if you have an aftermarket bolt on
I'm pretty sure KW doesn't release dynos

Leafydialupking: Yes, those rates are no where near high enough for full blown Honda race cars. I ran 1200lb/in in the rear of my ITR
It's tough to compare though, because motion ratios are different, and Cobalts have a built in swaybar, and the entire rear suspension itself is a swaybar. You could say we have 3 swaybars, if you have an aftermarket bolt on
Yeah issue with those 3 sway bars. 1 is non linear as ****, 1 doenst do hardly anything, and the aftermarket one doesnt connect to the right points in the middle.
And you have to consider that those civics and itrs weight less so they require less spring to get the same ride frequency (assuming similar motion ratios).
And you have to consider that those civics and itrs weight less so they require less spring to get the same ride frequency (assuming similar motion ratios).
They're probably similar to Konis, which is going to put the fronts a little over optimal. I'd try to stick under 600 for off the shelf shocks/struts. Peronally, I would also stick with more rear than front spring. It's a proven formula for FWD cars that wanna go fast. It's a little different than picking spring rates based on corner weight alone.
I'm pretty sure KW doesn't release dynos
Koni does, but you have to talk to the right person 
Leafydialupking: Yes, those rates are no where near high enough for full blown Honda race cars. I ran 1200lb/in in the rear of my ITR
It's tough to compare though, because motion ratios are different, and Cobalts have a built in swaybar, and the entire rear suspension itself is a swaybar. You could say we have 3 swaybars, if you have an aftermarket bolt on 
I'm pretty sure KW doesn't release dynos

Leafydialupking: Yes, those rates are no where near high enough for full blown Honda race cars. I ran 1200lb/in in the rear of my ITR
It's tough to compare though, because motion ratios are different, and Cobalts have a built in swaybar, and the entire rear suspension itself is a swaybar. You could say we have 3 swaybars, if you have an aftermarket bolt on But thats why im testing it
Springs are cheap so its not an issue to test some and gibe cobalters some info
I might head to Kelly Moss Motorsports tomorrow and see if they can dyno them, for cheap.
I don't understand the highlighted comment. Are you referring to the XXX / PRS bars? You don't need to attach the middle of the bar to anything since your reference point is the rear beam, which moves. Attaching it to the chassis would be problematic. That's why the stock one is inside the beam, so that it moves with the beam.
Why yes. But the stock one does nearly nothing because it is sooooo closer to the axis of twist of the twist beam. Remember moment of inertia. Our sway bars, stock and after market are just twist beam stiffeners. I would rather have a real sway bar which mounted to the chassis because it effects roll relative to the chassis rather than relative to the swing arm, which indirectly effects chassis roll through the springs.
Based on price and how well they perform I have changed my tire option to the Hankook RS3. I will also be using continental DW tires on my oe wheels in a 235/40/18 as a rain set.
yeah the rs3 isnt a bad tire. i plan on using the same for getting my hpdes done and quite a few practice and test sessions. if i was going to be doing a lot more street time the direzza star specs would of been for me..... next year a6s
yeah im not auto xing. road coarse driving... you dont need to go stupid fast and thats the intent. just get licensed and be done with it. i have a6s sitting here for when i wanna go fast.
MADCITY,
I've been following this thread and find it very informative since I autox and just got an 08 Cobalt last year. Plan to AX it this year but wondering like everyone else what suspension to go with?. I notice you're on 17's vs 18's which I have. Did you change or are the 17's stock for your yr? Do you have any exp with 18's ?
cw
I've been following this thread and find it very informative since I autox and just got an 08 Cobalt last year. Plan to AX it this year but wondering like everyone else what suspension to go with?. I notice you're on 17's vs 18's which I have. Did you change or are the 17's stock for your yr? Do you have any exp with 18's ?
cw


