Autocross and Road Racing Road racing is not “street racing”

Cobalt STX Build

Old Jan 23, 2012 | 11:56 PM
  #101  
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Originally Posted by madcitySS
i may run into some issue with the hypercoil springs. A ruler is not a good tool to measure the spring ID lol. On the KW spring perches with a rulwer they measurelittle more the 2 1/4" and just under 2 1/2". So the Delema, if i go with a 2-1/4 ID spring I can get a 9" tall spring and that will be perfect.

If i go with a 2-1/2" ID spring I cant get a 9" spring, only 10" and 8" springs. 10" wont be an issue for the front as i can move the position of spint perch down. The rear is a different issue. Ill get some pick up later this wee to also show what I am talking about.
KW is a European country. They scoff at the silly English measurement system.

60MM ID x 9" Length - Swift Springs

Swift, the best springs out there right now.
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 12:38 AM
  #102  
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Some top civic auto-x's would contend that their spring rates dont go high enough for rear springs. I think they may be a little nuts.
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 09:53 AM
  #103  
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Originally Posted by Wangspeed
KW is a European country. They scoff at the silly English measurement system.

60MM ID x 9" Length - Swift Springs

Swift, the best springs out there right now.
holly crap that perfect!! Yeah sorry im getting for from all angles on this thing. I knew they were 60mm but a friend told me to go with hypercoil springs and they only have 2.5 in an 8". so then i started freaking out lol. It shouldnt be this hard i kept thinking :P

Can you tell me that link you posted, is that a trusted site? I just wana make sure cause I was looking on evasive motorsports for springs but i like how this one is set up with info. Also just had my CC stolen when i bought a hitch for the cobalt lol.

still waiting to get a hold of some scales to find what rates to use.
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 11:19 PM
  #104  
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So I'm tentatively going with 12kg and 10 kg springs.

672fr
560rr

Still need to get it on some scales but I think these I'll worke based on the weight and such.
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 08:27 AM
  #105  
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Sounds promising. What are you going to run for dampers on that? I think you're either going to be high in the adjustment range of those KW's if you're even on the chart at all. Might have to send them out to get re-valved.
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 08:38 AM
  #106  
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Originally Posted by madcitySS
So I'm tentatively going with 12kg and 10 kg springs.

672fr
560rr

Still need to get it on some scales but I think these I'll worke based on the weight and such.
Why not run a stiffer rear spring and less rear bar?

Last edited by jboogie; Jan 26, 2012 at 08:54 AM.
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 10:35 AM
  #107  
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Originally Posted by jboogie
Why not run a stiffer rear spring and less rear bar?
thats an option as well but I like to have a softer spring in the rear with the lack of camber and a bigger sway bar. So i guess i would rather get the rotation from the sway bar than the springs.
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 10:40 AM
  #108  
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Originally Posted by Leafydialupking
Sounds promising. What are you going to run for dampers on that? I think you're either going to be high in the adjustment range of those KW's if you're even on the chart at all. Might have to send them out to get re-valved.
I didnt want to go so stiff that they would be out of range of the KWs but get some testing this season and see how it reacts. Since I plan on keeping the car and wait till the 130r comes out(assuming there is a 2.0turbo i it) I have some time to play around. I have been talking with AST on a custom 5220 setup, but its expensive. May get the KWs revalved next season to work better with the non progressive springs and the higher rates.

I still need to find time this weekend when I am watching the Rolex 24 to read my suspension book and dial some numbers in to make sure those will work for the car.

BTW I cant wait for the Rolex 24! All 24 hours will be on speed!! its sweet!
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 12:03 PM
  #109  
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Dont forget the articles on optimum g. I think they make it really easy to understand all of the springs and damper stuff in your book in like 10 pages of reading. I would suggest you just do the math out for the damper curves and plead KW to give you their shock dyno charts.
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 12:42 PM
  #110  
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They're probably similar to Konis, which is going to put the fronts a little over optimal. I'd try to stick under 600 for off the shelf shocks/struts. Peronally, I would also stick with more rear than front spring. It's a proven formula for FWD cars that wanna go fast. It's a little different than picking spring rates based on corner weight alone.

I'm pretty sure KW doesn't release dynos Koni does, but you have to talk to the right person

Leafydialupking: Yes, those rates are no where near high enough for full blown Honda race cars. I ran 1200lb/in in the rear of my ITR It's tough to compare though, because motion ratios are different, and Cobalts have a built in swaybar, and the entire rear suspension itself is a swaybar. You could say we have 3 swaybars, if you have an aftermarket bolt on
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 12:45 PM
  #111  
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Yeah issue with those 3 sway bars. 1 is non linear as ****, 1 doenst do hardly anything, and the aftermarket one doesnt connect to the right points in the middle.

And you have to consider that those civics and itrs weight less so they require less spring to get the same ride frequency (assuming similar motion ratios).
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 05:32 PM
  #112  
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Originally Posted by Wangspeed
They're probably similar to Konis, which is going to put the fronts a little over optimal. I'd try to stick under 600 for off the shelf shocks/struts. Peronally, I would also stick with more rear than front spring. It's a proven formula for FWD cars that wanna go fast. It's a little different than picking spring rates based on corner weight alone.

I'm pretty sure KW doesn't release dynos Koni does, but you have to talk to the right person

Leafydialupking: Yes, those rates are no where near high enough for full blown Honda race cars. I ran 1200lb/in in the rear of my ITR It's tough to compare though, because motion ratios are different, and Cobalts have a built in swaybar, and the entire rear suspension itself is a swaybar. You could say we have 3 swaybars, if you have an aftermarket bolt on
yeah like i said its not for sure yet. I may go down to 500 in the front when I get some good numbers. And Im always looking for advice! Its proven but I feel with the xxx sway bar and stiff rear springs it might be to out of control.

But thats why im testing it Springs are cheap so its not an issue to test some and gibe cobalters some info

I might head to Kelly Moss Motorsports tomorrow and see if they can dyno them, for cheap.
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Old Jan 27, 2012 | 02:30 PM
  #113  
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Originally Posted by Leafydialupking
Yeah issue with those 3 sway bars. 1 is non linear as ****, 1 doenst do hardly anything, and the aftermarket one doesnt connect to the right points in the middle.
I don't understand the highlighted comment. Are you referring to the XXX / PRS bars? You don't need to attach the middle of the bar to anything since your reference point is the rear beam, which moves. Attaching it to the chassis would be problematic. That's why the stock one is inside the beam, so that it moves with the beam.
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Old Jan 27, 2012 | 02:42 PM
  #114  
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Why yes. But the stock one does nearly nothing because it is sooooo closer to the axis of twist of the twist beam. Remember moment of inertia. Our sway bars, stock and after market are just twist beam stiffeners. I would rather have a real sway bar which mounted to the chassis because it effects roll relative to the chassis rather than relative to the swing arm, which indirectly effects chassis roll through the springs.
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Old Jan 28, 2012 | 06:36 PM
  #115  
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Based on price and how well they perform I have changed my tire option to the Hankook RS3. I will also be using continental DW tires on my oe wheels in a 235/40/18 as a rain set.
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Old Jan 28, 2012 | 10:35 PM
  #116  
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good choice
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 12:15 AM
  #117  
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Good choice.
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 09:43 AM
  #118  
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yeah the rs3 isnt a bad tire. i plan on using the same for getting my hpdes done and quite a few practice and test sessions. if i was going to be doing a lot more street time the direzza star specs would of been for me..... next year a6s
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 09:51 AM
  #119  
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I'd almost be concerned about heat with them at hpde. I've seen double driver cars ball em up on hot days even with using a tire sprayer at auto-x.
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 11:03 AM
  #120  
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yeah im not auto xing. road coarse driving... you dont need to go stupid fast and thats the intent. just get licensed and be done with it. i have a6s sitting here for when i wanna go fast.
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 09:57 PM
  #121  
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No go on the shock dyno. Wangspeed, do you think 560 would be good for the front then 504 for the rear. I think that's about what they are.
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 10:01 AM
  #122  
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Originally Posted by madcitySS
No go on the shock dyno. Wangspeed, do you think 560 would be good for the front then 504 for the rear. I think that's about what they are.
Take a pic of the front KW springs. There should be labelling on them which gives away the spring rate.
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 10:25 AM
  #123  
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Car's looking great man. I wanna see those Team Dynamics wheels and the RS-3's together, I'm thinking about using RS-3's too, I heard they're quite better than the NT05's.
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 03:51 PM
  #124  
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Originally Posted by Wangspeed
Take a pic of the front KW springs. There should be labelling on them which gives away the spring rate.
you can see the fron on the 1st page but its 60210030 18G10

and the rear is 6020 33E10

I want to go stiffer but no out of range of the shocks.
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 07:58 PM
  #125  
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MADCITY,

I've been following this thread and find it very informative since I autox and just got an 08 Cobalt last year. Plan to AX it this year but wondering like everyone else what suspension to go with?. I notice you're on 17's vs 18's which I have. Did you change or are the 17's stock for your yr? Do you have any exp with 18's ?

cw
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