I guess not Totally not decipherable. Lame.

 

the OE wheels will be for DD driving and also rain. The 17s are just for autocross. put them on at the track, take them off before i go kinda thing. 17s were just to run a wider cheaper tire, and having them fit.

lol! yeah i was going to say if you know what that means sweet! Damn Germans

 

IRRC now stock class cars can down size to 17" wheels even if they werent an option in order to slicks.

 

trust me if i had the money i would have Forgline 18x9s lol.

Problem with 18s are the price if the wheel, if you can find one in a 18X9 and also price of the tires, if they even fit under the fenters without a roll :P

1100 bucks for 17X9s im quite happy with, the hankook RS3s are at an awesome price as well!

 

Enough talk and speculation, we need wheels, tires and coilovers mounted and driving impressions! lol

 

Trust me I cant wait, but I have to. Its winter here, that means snow and road salt... lots of it. No coilovers of mine will see salt lol.

 

When you mount those RS3's, I want your opinion of them when you go do autox. They should be the cheaper alternative to NT05.

 

A cheaper and better alternative to the nt05. Remember they're the 2nd best tire in street touring for dry grip and 1st best for wet grip, and best in the cold. Only a shaved toyo has more grip because its basically an r-comp with tread cut in it and a thin layer of hard compound over the r-compound to make them get a 140 tread ware.

 

where are you getting the 1st and 2nd from? Everything I have heard on the RS3 is they are terrible in the wet and cold and the best tire in the warm.

 

Ahh, well then I mixed up the toyo and the kook for wet and cold then I guess.

 

ohh ok yeah i think so. The toyos like cold cause they heat up fast, but for a car our size they will overhear fast. The also like the wet cause.. well look at them, they look like a rain tire lol.

thats why i was going to used dunlop cause they do well in all areas, but I might as well go with the hankooks since im getting Conti DW for rain.

BTW any updates I have on new parts, how they are working on the car i will do a reply post and also put it on the main page so people dont have to search for info.

 

got bored at work. Took some PVC for my tire trailer and used it to but a bowtie cap on my team dynamic wheels. It wont stay on when driving but it looks cool.

 

numbers are in

2874 autocross weight. so everything out of the trunk.

corners..

885LF 911RF

565LR 511RR


with 1/3 a tank of gas. not bad for a 2010 sunroof car.


ideas on spring rates?

 

It looks like it would balance out amazingly well for a stock car with the driver. Any weights with you in it?

 

yep
939LF 931RF

610LR 526 RR

3002 with me in it.

 

An old post of John's reveals the stockers are 450 at 2" of compression. I'd say a try there, or a touch down from that. Rear? Add 100 lb/in or the equiv in kg/mm. Conservative, but it won't get too nuts in the wet. You can always go stiffer later.

 

So that means that the stockers are 225 lb/in springs. Damn thats lowing spring territory for lighter cars, haha. And by that I mean, the lowreing springs that are in my 2400 pound saturn are 240 in the rear and 320ish in the front. Damn man, its all wheel rates that matter.

 

No, it means that the spring rate at 2" of compression is 450 lb/in. That's the only data point I listed.

 

Subd

 

So they're progressive rate?

 

dont you think thats would be to soft? Im almost thinking now of going 506front and around 4XX in the rear. I dono I just always run a softer spring in the rear, kinda fits my driving style. Like you said though I can get different rates if needed.

Anyone know what the pedder spring rates are? springs not the coilovers.

 

the springs on the cobalt stock and on the KWs are progressive. The only coilover I have seen that doesnt are the BC coilovers... maybe stance as well, but they dont make the best stuff for racing. Peoeple who use coilovers for what they were intended for :P

 

Thats just silly. If you use coils for racing they should not be progressive. Progressive feel funny when you're racing.

 

Most of the cheap kits use 6k/6k or 7k/7k. I have a suspicion that the KW use softer in the rear. It's how they typically setup their kits, and rely on valving to help.

Personally, I like running higher spring rates in the rear on a FWD car. It helps everywhere on track. 400/500 is conservative, but like I said, it's easier to go more later, and it sucks to go too high to start with. I wouldn't go softer in back though...

 

Softer in the rear is how most cars come, it has to do with the oscillation in the suspension, if the front and rear are equal bumps feel killer because the waves from the oscillation match up and the amplitudes double. You have to get the ratio just right or else it really sucks to drive. For street driven cars I typically recommend being softer in the rear than the front still for a comfort thing.