395 plus

iTrader: (1)

I going to a track day and I am having my brake lines switched to stainless lines I also want the brake fluid flushed.
What fluid would you recommend and where can I purcahse it for the DD and twice a year track days? The track is Road America (high speed track with some very long and hard braking areas). I am running R1 premium drilled and slotted with Hawk HPS pads.

scottherbert

'Stock' brake fluid is quite adequate if you change it before you go to the track - every time you go to the track.

Your drilled and slotted brakes might be a problem - they look pretty but they aren't really what you need. They have a habit of cracking at high temps because of the drilling. Stock solid rotors are your best answer for the track day.

Scott

395 plus

iTrader: (1)

Only problem is the stock rotors will be warped before the day is over. They are crap from the start. I have warped the fronts from a panic stop which really isnt much different than hard braking at the track.

I will stay with my R1's. The good thing about Road America is that it has good distance between corners so you can cool a bit between corners. Its an over 4 mile course with 14 turns.

Mark Aubele

So you "warped" (I doubt you did, I am sure it was just pad deposits) your stock front rotors and you think the same thing won't happen with drilled and slotted rotors? Please, please, take that garbage off of your car before you go to an actual racetrack. They WILL crack. Leave the slotted and drilled garbage for the ricers.

CleanCut

I think brembo makes stock replacement rotors for out cars... Heard they were pretty good

northvibe

iTrader: (1)

which cobalt do you have? year model etc?

395 plus

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2007 ss/sc

395 plus

iTrader: (1)

Sure could very well have been from the stock pads. After I drove the next couple days I had a bad vibration whenever I would step on the brakes so I had these from my other car so put them on with the HPS pads. I have some brembo blanks for a couple days a year of track time.

Mark Aubele

I honestly recommend that. Whatever you do, good luck and have fun!

whyyoumadson?

see if carbotech makes anything for those cars. im pretty sure they make stuff for the lnf now which i need to look into. a good dot4 fluid i recommend.

stealthy1ss

iTrader: (1)

Here is what I run on the car for a brake setup at Road America. Stock rotors with HP+ pads. They are a little much for the street but I don't drive the car that much. As far as fluid the DOT 4 blue stuff from Tirerack or Motul 600 which you can get at Pegasus in New Berlin. If you go to Napa and get rotors they are cheap so if they warp just put new ones on. IMO the drilled and slotted rotors are for show. HPS or HP+ pads will work just fine with your car.

whyyoumadson?

this....i run ferrodo hp1000 stock pads with coleman 2pc rotors, wilwood dot4 fluid and call it a day......im an lnf though.

stealthy1ss

iTrader: (1)

Matt I would love to have 2pc rotors. Too bad my wallet can't support JP's prices. BTW you should try to come up with Brags if you can in 2 weeks.

whyyoumadson?

if the cars done...pm me the info.

Wangspeed

iTrader: (2)

Listen to Scott and Mark. You didn't warp the rotors. You used pads that weren't aggressive enough, and didn't tolerate the heat. Do not use drilled rotors on track! Only newbies do this. They will crack. If you're lucky, they won't connect the dots.

HPS are not track pads. HP+ are not track pads. Both of those will cause some massive vibration if you try to use them on track. I guarantee it. Use cheap stock rotors, fresh fluid like ATE or Valvoline synthetic, and spend the money on pads. Carbotech XP10 or above, Cobalt Friction XR1/2, Hawk Blue (super rotor aggressive), Hawk DTC60/70, etc are all appropriate track pads.

Personally, I run Cobalt Friction XR1. They're rotor friendly, and are very easy to get used to. The only downsides are the price and rivets, though the rivets are made of a soft metal, and will not score your rotors unless you try to run it all the way down to the backing plate.

Should you decide to run a fluid more exotic than Valvoline synth or ATE, keep in mind that anything that has a really high boiling point will probably also not have corrosion inhibitors. This means that you MUST, MUST, MUST bleed the brakes once or twice a season, otherwise your lines will rust from the inside out. Street fluids contain corrosion inhibitors.

stealthy1ss

iTrader: (1)

So basically you are recommending to get seperate rotors and pads for the track?

Wangspeed

iTrader: (2)

That's ideal, though some track pads are more friendly than others. I have no issues going between XR1 and the stock Ferodo pads. Hawk Blues would probably work too on the same rotors, but only because they lathe the rotors so damn quickly.

If you want to use the same rotors, do some research on the Carbotech stuff. You could just run Carbotech street pads and Carbotech track pads. Their stuff is compatible with each other.

whyyoumadson?

Stealthy has a lsj though....he might be better off with a upgraded track pad

northvibe

iTrader: (1)

hell ya, if you can afford it.

stealthy1ss

iTrader: (1)

I think I can float it but for this go around I am stuck with my current setup. You and Jeff need to come to one of these RA events. I do my best to inform you as soon as I find out about these track days.

northvibe

iTrader: (1)

getting jeff out will be hard, he is trying to get a house...so his money is away somewhere else. I just need tires and I'll be down to do whatever. well...and the 2 piece brakes from powell.

stealthy1ss

iTrader: (1)

What are you waiting for? Tell your wallet and John to chop chop!

Wangspeed

iTrader: (2)

I realize that, which is why appropriate pads are even more important. A set of track pads and a few bottles of Valvoline synthetic (available everywhere) would be cheaper than those crappy Swiss cheese rotors.

whyyoumadson?

sooooooooo true. just making sure you knew

jboogie

iTrader: (3)

uhhh never been to the track huh?