OFFICIAL: Difference between SLICKS and Drag Radials
02-16-2009, 03:39 PM
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OFFICIAL: Difference between SLICKS and Drag Radials
This is STICKY material. So please make it so. I'm getting tired of seeing the missinformation about slicks and drag radials. So here it is. All information was taken from various muscle car forums, srt forums, dsm forums, and magazines.
Drag SLICKS
Drag slicks are racing tires which offer uncompromised traction. As the name implies, slicks have no tread so as to maximize the contact of the tire. Like the D.O.T.-legal slicks, drag slicks feature a soft compound and a soft, two-ply sidewall designed to wrinkle on launch. These tires should never be used on the street. If you were to get caught in the rain or drive through a puddle, they would instantly hydroplane. Also, due to their soft construction, slicks are prone to punctures, and handling is compromised.
Drag RADIALS
Drag Radials are a STREET TIRE that is made with a softer compound. It is intended for slightly better traction than a regular street tire. Drag Radials have street tire-like tread. They feature a soft compound and a slightly softer sidewall. These tires are designed to be used on the street or at the track. They are not intended for slick-like launches, but rather a street tire-like launch with the added grip to help out those 60-foots. The disadvantage to drag radials is the softer launch doesn't lead to 60-foots equivalent of the Drag Slicks and it has a stiff sidewall just like a street tire, so wheel hop may occur which can lead to brokend drivetrain components.
IMPORTANT!!!!!!!!!!! READ!!!!!!!!!!
slicks are stickier.
slicks will reduce the likely hood of breaking an axle due to wheel hop.
slicks will get you better 60' times.
drag radials can be driven to the track and back home again. (albet carefully)
that's about it for DRs.
talk to the M&H guys on here. they'll get you the right tire for your car.
PROPER SIZING IS KEY!!!!
In order to achieve the best 60-ft or best et while at the strip, you must try to size the proper slick or drag radial to your car.
Ralliartist's reccommendation for all cobalts is the Hoosier DOT drag radial. While the name implies that it is a radial tire, it is NOT.
These Hoosier D.O.T. drag radial tires meet the Department of Transportation requirements for marking and performance only. They feature a special compound to provide good traction, making them perfect for classes that require a street-legal style tire. The D.O.T. drag radials are not intended for street use, or for use on public roads.
It is a CHEATER SLICK and it is very appropriately sized for optimal gearing and traction for a FWD cobalt gearing and power.
Link... http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...1&autoview=sku
Obviously there are many more choices out there, but that is the tire I highly reccommend to achieve best ET's and trap speed while at the track.
For those wanting to stay on 17" and 18" rims:
Ralliartist reccommends the Mickey Thompson ET street radial. Keep in mind THIS IS NOT A SLICK. The 17" tire will also be geared better. The 18" rim has a larger diameter and will make your gears longer which will cause acceleration to suffer slightly.
17" rim - http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/s.../40R17&type=SS
18" rim - http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/s.../40R18&type=SS
Drag SLICKS
Drag slicks are racing tires which offer uncompromised traction. As the name implies, slicks have no tread so as to maximize the contact of the tire. Like the D.O.T.-legal slicks, drag slicks feature a soft compound and a soft, two-ply sidewall designed to wrinkle on launch. These tires should never be used on the street. If you were to get caught in the rain or drive through a puddle, they would instantly hydroplane. Also, due to their soft construction, slicks are prone to punctures, and handling is compromised.
Drag RADIALS
Drag Radials are a STREET TIRE that is made with a softer compound. It is intended for slightly better traction than a regular street tire. Drag Radials have street tire-like tread. They feature a soft compound and a slightly softer sidewall. These tires are designed to be used on the street or at the track. They are not intended for slick-like launches, but rather a street tire-like launch with the added grip to help out those 60-foots. The disadvantage to drag radials is the softer launch doesn't lead to 60-foots equivalent of the Drag Slicks and it has a stiff sidewall just like a street tire, so wheel hop may occur which can lead to brokend drivetrain components.
There's a wide variety here. True racing slicks primarily are a bias ply wrinkle sidewall tire.
Then you have DOT cheater slicks like the Hoosier QTP and the Mickey Thompson Et Street. Both are a bias ply tire, just like a slick, but have a couple small grooves and are somehow DOT approved. They may have a minor compound difference, possibly a little difference in the sidewall construction, but are very close to a true slick.
You then have the current crop of DOT Drag Radial tires like the BFG, Nitto, Hoosier and M/T. These are totally different than a bias ply slick. The radials are just that a radial constructed tire specifically built for racing with softer compounds and sidewall construction to allow some wrinkle, but stiffer than a bias ply.
Offshoots of the bias ply slick are a stiff sidewall version as well as a radial slick.
Most any of these will provide excellent traction assuming the cars driveline and chassis are setup properly and can take advantage of the additional traction.
Then you have DOT cheater slicks like the Hoosier QTP and the Mickey Thompson Et Street. Both are a bias ply tire, just like a slick, but have a couple small grooves and are somehow DOT approved. They may have a minor compound difference, possibly a little difference in the sidewall construction, but are very close to a true slick.
You then have the current crop of DOT Drag Radial tires like the BFG, Nitto, Hoosier and M/T. These are totally different than a bias ply slick. The radials are just that a radial constructed tire specifically built for racing with softer compounds and sidewall construction to allow some wrinkle, but stiffer than a bias ply.
Offshoots of the bias ply slick are a stiff sidewall version as well as a radial slick.
Most any of these will provide excellent traction assuming the cars driveline and chassis are setup properly and can take advantage of the additional traction.
There is another major difference between the way bias ply slicks work and the way Drag Radial work. If you get on a poorly prepared track the slicks will usually still bite while the drag radials will spin and cause severe tire shake that can break driveline parts, usually rear end gears and axles. On real good biting strips the D.R.s are a little faster and quicker but initial traction is crucial with them.
slicks are stickier.
slicks will reduce the likely hood of breaking an axle due to wheel hop.
slicks will get you better 60' times.
drag radials can be driven to the track and back home again. (albet carefully)
that's about it for DRs.
talk to the M&H guys on here. they'll get you the right tire for your car.
You'll see a HUGE difference between slicks and DRs.
DRs are better suited for a stickier alternative to a street tire. You can heat up DRs but they are not the same compound as a slick. They will not expand like a slick does when properly heated up.
DRs are better suited for a stickier alternative to a street tire. You can heat up DRs but they are not the same compound as a slick. They will not expand like a slick does when properly heated up.
In order to achieve the best 60-ft or best et while at the strip, you must try to size the proper slick or drag radial to your car.
Ralliartist's reccommendation for all cobalts is the Hoosier DOT drag radial. While the name implies that it is a radial tire, it is NOT.
These Hoosier D.O.T. drag radial tires meet the Department of Transportation requirements for marking and performance only. They feature a special compound to provide good traction, making them perfect for classes that require a street-legal style tire. The D.O.T. drag radials are not intended for street use, or for use on public roads.
It is a CHEATER SLICK and it is very appropriately sized for optimal gearing and traction for a FWD cobalt gearing and power.
Link... http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...1&autoview=sku
Obviously there are many more choices out there, but that is the tire I highly reccommend to achieve best ET's and trap speed while at the track.
For those wanting to stay on 17" and 18" rims:
Ralliartist reccommends the Mickey Thompson ET street radial. Keep in mind THIS IS NOT A SLICK. The 17" tire will also be geared better. The 18" rim has a larger diameter and will make your gears longer which will cause acceleration to suffer slightly.
17" rim - http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/s.../40R17&type=SS
18" rim - http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/s.../40R18&type=SS
Last edited by ralliartist; 02-17-2009 at 01:58 AM.
02-16-2009, 04:15 PM
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that's also my thing. The D/R's can be used on our stock wheels or an aftermarket rim of the same size but what about the slicks? What would be the best size to go with?
02-16-2009, 05:27 PM
#4
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I know he's recommending the DOT drag radialsin 16", which I assume measure closer to a slick. From what I can read, they're recommended for 7"-9" rim width. I'm trying to figure out the two ends of the spectrum:
Lightest 16" X 7-9"
-or-
Cheapest 16" X 7-9"
DAMN YOU 5X110!!!
Lightest 16" X 7-9"
-or-
Cheapest 16" X 7-9"
DAMN YOU 5X110!!!
02-17-2009, 01:18 AM
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For SS/tc's their brakes are too big. So I dunno. They are fucked with it comes to slicks.
17 and 18" slicks are just too big to fit in the wheel well.
As for drag radials, I don't reccommend putting a drag radial with that small of a sidewall on and launching with it. WHEEL HOP CITY. Breakage.
Last edited by ralliartist; 02-17-2009 at 01:18 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
02-17-2009, 01:44 AM
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Best bet for ss/sc owners is to get some 16's and use those hoosiers I posted up.
For ss/tc owners, you are stuck with drag radials, or you can swap to smaller ss/sc brakes and then get 16's so you can use slicks.
02-17-2009, 01:47 AM
#11
Haz l33t wheelz.
I know he's recommending the DOT drag radialsin 16", which I assume measure closer to a slick. From what I can read, they're recommended for 7"-9" rim width. I'm trying to figure out the two ends of the spectrum:
Lightest 16" X 7-9"
-or-
Cheapest 16" X 7-9"
DAMN YOU 5X110!!
Lightest 16" X 7-9"
-or-
Cheapest 16" X 7-9"
DAMN YOU 5X110!!
you aren't going to find slicks that fit 17" wheels for a cobalt. They are just too tall man. Not going to happen. You'd have to run a drag radial, and i think it's just too risky for wheel hop.
Best bet for ss/sc owners is to get some 16's and use those hoosiers I posted up.
For ss/tc owners, you are stuck with drag radials, or you can swap to smaller ss/sc brakes and then get 16's so you can use slicks.
Best bet for ss/sc owners is to get some 16's and use those hoosiers I posted up.
For ss/tc owners, you are stuck with drag radials, or you can swap to smaller ss/sc brakes and then get 16's so you can use slicks.
Last edited by ls1fbody; 02-17-2009 at 01:47 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
02-17-2009, 01:51 AM
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Personally, i don't consider it an upgrade. I think our brakes are already too big as it is. Those ss/tc brakes are just rediculous.
Last edited by ralliartist; 02-17-2009 at 01:51 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
02-17-2009, 01:57 AM
#13
Haz l33t wheelz.
by the time i actually get to the track, i'll be running rotated mounts and the new control arms, so i don't think wheelhop will be as much of an issue.
alrighty then, well, not a big problem then, I'll stick with DR's
alrighty then, well, not a big problem then, I'll stick with DR's
Last edited by ls1fbody; 02-17-2009 at 01:57 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
02-17-2009, 02:01 AM
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There, I updated the first post with 17 and 18 inch tires. SLICKS WILL NOT FIT!!!!! But mickey thompson does offer an outstanding street drag radial that will stick better than anything else on the market. KEEP IN MIND THE STIFF SIDEWALL THOUGH!!!! IT IS NOT A SLICK. YOU WILL BE PRONE TO WHEEL HOP!
I hope rotated mounts would stop the hop, but the thing is, you still won't be able to launch as hard on drag radials as you can on slicks. They WILL spin easier, they are LARGER in diameter which causes your gears to be longer which hurts acceleration, and they DON'T have much of a soft sidewall. They WILL tend to bounce if your car starts to hop at all.
I hope rotated mounts would stop the hop, but the thing is, you still won't be able to launch as hard on drag radials as you can on slicks. They WILL spin easier, they are LARGER in diameter which causes your gears to be longer which hurts acceleration, and they DON'T have much of a soft sidewall. They WILL tend to bounce if your car starts to hop at all.
Last edited by ralliartist; 02-17-2009 at 02:01 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
02-17-2009, 02:31 AM
#16
Haz l33t wheelz.
when it comes to a track with twisties, the Brembo's are incredible.
02-17-2009, 08:33 AM
#18
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Bro, you completely misunderstood me. Just looking for rims...Anywho, I did a little searching last night and found the best place was, in fact, Tire Rack's winter selection. Actually came across quite a few choices and think I've come to a decision.
Sport Edition F10's. 16X7 @ 17.5lbs:
Pretty similar to my OZ's if painted black except for the whole 6 spoke/ 5 spoke thing...
02-17-2009, 08:47 AM
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True, true. His other posts don't seem to be trolling, though. I figured he may have a competent thought process behind jacking Ralli's thread. Oh well, we'll just treat this as a bump and when a mod comes to sticky this he can just clear these posts so they're not in the way...
02-17-2009, 01:12 PM
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I have those F10 wheels as my winters, I picked them because they were pretty cheap and light, I also can swap two to slicks if I buy them for the summer.
Kevin
Kevin
02-17-2009, 01:55 PM
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I think in this thread there should be a section of when slicks/DR are really needed. a stock lt doesn't really need slicks, sure it could help but it isn't needed.
02-17-2009, 02:04 PM
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02-17-2009, 02:17 PM
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Another good thing for this thread would be how to properly do a burnout before launching the car. I know I'm not the only person who doesn't know how to do it right. I've had no reason to before, since I know the car is prone to hopping. I think this would be helpful as well to get the most out of the slicks.