OFFICIAL: Difference between SLICKS and Drag Radials
02-18-2009, 01:38 PM
#31
ralliartist. he has an evo. he lies to everyone. he had a stock evo then put the cobalt wheels and body onto it and ran a 13.2 stock with a stock evo. just looks like a cobalt. you see his launch video's? ***** sick! he haz you all fooled! dupercharged!!! he now switched the evo to a corvette engine!! 
02-19-2009, 07:37 PM
#36
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Bro, you completely misunderstood me. Just looking for rims...Anywho, I did a little searching last night and found the best place was, in fact, Tire Rack's winter selection. Actually came across quite a few choices and think I've come to a decision.
Sport Edition F10's. 16X7 @ 17.5lbs:
Pretty similar to my OZ's if painted black except for the whole 6 spoke/ 5 spoke thing...
02-20-2009, 07:28 AM
#37
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02-20-2009, 05:32 PM
#38
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02-20-2009, 08:17 PM
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good post man. I think it's important to note that there are some DR's out there that are just barely streetable and shouldn't really be used on any kind of daily basis. You addressed it, i just wanted to emphasize it again because i have seen multiple people using them as DD tires. for example, ET drags are a HORRIBLE street tire and are basically slicks despite being called a drag radial.
tires are far more complex than people realize. I always advise people to talk to someone else when they ask me about tires because they are just a science in themselves.
again, good post. good sticky.
tires are far more complex than people realize. I always advise people to talk to someone else when they ask me about tires because they are just a science in themselves.
again, good post. good sticky.
02-21-2009, 01:36 AM
#42
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Something else worthy of mentioning
The soft sidewalls of slicks or bias ply DOTs like ET Streets/Hoosier Quick Time Pros are easier on half-shafts, axles, etc. Yes they have more ultimate traction, but the sidewalls absorb much more shock on the launch. Launching a manual trans car on drag radials is tricky and often a hit or miss traction situation. Automatics (except trans brakes) hit softer and it's not as much of an issue.
In the early 03-04 Cobra days, many stock 12 second cars were breaking their IRS while some guys were running 10's on the stock IRS without breakage. Besides the obvious wheelhop, the other biggest factor was the tires that enabled the diffs and half-shafts to survive. Some of these guys were consistently dumping the clutch at 5,500 rpms on completely stock rear-ends and drivetrains without breaking, amazing. Of course if you do that over and over you WILL find the weak links and they did...
You're very correct about using some of these so called DOT tires as daily drivers. Some of them are acceptable some are not. For example, Nitto DR's do ok in that situation. On my 500+rwhp Cobra, I used Nitto's daily and found them to give sufficient traction on the street and do OK in rain until there was standing water or until they were worn. Nittos are known to last the longest of the drag radials but also trade off ultimate traction. At the track they SUCKED.
A couple times I mounted up my ET Streets (bias ply slicks with 2 grooves to make them barely DOT legal) the night before and drove to work then to the track to race that night. They sway like a **** and are really not safe as you said. Taking turns or driving over 55mph was ass-puckering. Now for a few hours of Friday night boulevard fun, they're ok, but not as daily drivers.
The soft sidewalls of slicks or bias ply DOTs like ET Streets/Hoosier Quick Time Pros are easier on half-shafts, axles, etc. Yes they have more ultimate traction, but the sidewalls absorb much more shock on the launch. Launching a manual trans car on drag radials is tricky and often a hit or miss traction situation. Automatics (except trans brakes) hit softer and it's not as much of an issue.
In the early 03-04 Cobra days, many stock 12 second cars were breaking their IRS while some guys were running 10's on the stock IRS without breakage. Besides the obvious wheelhop, the other biggest factor was the tires that enabled the diffs and half-shafts to survive. Some of these guys were consistently dumping the clutch at 5,500 rpms on completely stock rear-ends and drivetrains without breaking, amazing. Of course if you do that over and over you WILL find the weak links and they did...
good post man. I think it's important to note that there are some DR's out there that are just barely streetable and shouldn't really be used on any kind of daily basis. You addressed it, i just wanted to emphasize it again because i have seen multiple people using them as DD tires. for example, ET drags are a HORRIBLE street tire and are basically slicks despite being called a drag radial.
tires are far more complex than people realize. I always advise people to talk to someone else when they ask me about tires because they are just a science in themselves.
again, good post. good sticky.
tires are far more complex than people realize. I always advise people to talk to someone else when they ask me about tires because they are just a science in themselves.
again, good post. good sticky.
A couple times I mounted up my ET Streets (bias ply slicks with 2 grooves to make them barely DOT legal) the night before and drove to work then to the track to race that night. They sway like a **** and are really not safe as you said. Taking turns or driving over 55mph was ass-puckering. Now for a few hours of Friday night boulevard fun, they're ok, but not as daily drivers.
Last edited by COHBALTSS; 02-21-2009 at 01:36 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
02-21-2009, 01:44 AM
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rallieartist- you think the best bet for ss/sc is to go with a 16inch rim and get the M T drag radial you posted a link on right? the 225-50-16 will fit with no issues on a lowered balt? And is it ok to run the steel wheels with the tires you chose, like these at tirerack.com.... http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/resul...ar=&sort=Brand
doesnt have a weight on them..
doesnt have a weight on them..
02-21-2009, 10:12 AM
#46
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yea, those are M T drag radial, they are HOOSIER DOT drag radial. But they are just a DOT approved cheater slick. They shouldn't be used on the street. They should be good on a lowered balt and those steelies should work.
02-21-2009, 05:21 PM
#48
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I dont really like SHOULD and SHOULD work...hah Id rather know before spending over $500...
02-21-2009, 09:42 PM
#49
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Completely forgot to tell you. Go to the winter selection, not wheels. Then enter Cobalt SS/SC. Select 16" options and then skip to wheels. It'll give you steelie selections and just above that will be a link for about 17 alloy choices for us.
02-22-2009, 01:08 AM
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26x8x18 would work. But you'd be sacrificing some acceleration by going with such a huge diameter of tire.
Last edited by ralliartist; 02-22-2009 at 01:08 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
