traction vs srt-4 sucks again
10-13-2006, 11:21 PM
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traction vs srt-4 sucks again
i am pissed that this is the second time i raced a srt-4 and got beat by 2 car lengths
i have
gm stage 2
ngk bkr7e
cti race header and dp
corsa touring exaust
ingalls torque dampener
and injen cai
so im easily running 260+ horse im pretty sure
first was a 20 roll 1st gear slowly rolled into it and still spun the tires.... backed off at 2 carlengths
second was a 40 roll and he took off right away and it was about the same
well with his brake boost thats how he took off so easily but i didnt seem to gain on him....
can anyone tell me wtf????
i guess im going to look at tires tommorrow
i have
gm stage 2
ngk bkr7e
cti race header and dp
corsa touring exaust
ingalls torque dampener
and injen cai
so im easily running 260+ horse im pretty sure
first was a 20 roll 1st gear slowly rolled into it and still spun the tires.... backed off at 2 carlengths
second was a 40 roll and he took off right away and it was about the same
well with his brake boost thats how he took off so easily but i didnt seem to gain on him....
can anyone tell me wtf????
i guess im going to look at tires tommorrow
10-13-2006, 11:34 PM
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Originally Posted by CbYellowSS
sorry i wasnt thinking but he had an acr package and drag radials
supposivly he was stock
supposivly he was stock
10-13-2006, 11:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Mines_Better
yeah man, you should definitely be pulling him. not the opposite. the acr kit isnt that big of a deal. NOT STOCK!!!
10-14-2006, 09:18 AM
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i should pull on him even if he brake boosts???
cuz like i said i spun on the 20 roll but still there was no catching up to him
and i know for sure he just bought the car like 2 weeks ago so he wouldve had to do it then or he already had stuff on it when he bought it
cuz like i said i spun on the 20 roll but still there was no catching up to him
and i know for sure he just bought the car like 2 weeks ago so he wouldve had to do it then or he already had stuff on it when he bought it
10-14-2006, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by CbYellowSS
i should pull on him even if he brake boosts???
cuz like i said i spun on the 20 roll but still there was no catching up to him
and i know for sure he just bought the car like 2 weeks ago so he wouldve had to do it then or he already had stuff on it when he bought it
cuz like i said i spun on the 20 roll but still there was no catching up to him
and i know for sure he just bought the car like 2 weeks ago so he wouldve had to do it then or he already had stuff on it when he bought it
How do you brake boost an srt4? I mean these things are all manual trans equipped and to build boost on the line you would need a dis2 or something? If he was rolling at 20MPH in 1st his boost would build instantly and brake the tires loose- believe it or not all front drives have traction problems- even the SRT4. Heck most of the stock SRT4's I see at the track do low to mid 14's with 2.5-2.6 sixty foot times. They come with those KDW's that resemble drag radials. Again if you hit him on a roll at 40 he would be in the prime RPM range to get quick boost in 2nd gear. If you want to get an advantage on him try it from a roll at 30MPH then he would be going too fast for first and would have to build boost from the bottom of second.
10-14-2006, 09:58 AM
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As far as tires go what are the best options to get traction with on a Cobalt short of slicks? Something with a little more sidewall than the stock 17's or are they 18's? I don't think you will find anything in 17's or 18's that will give enough traction to help. Then if you do find traction it sounds like you will have to get after market axles at $800 a pair. Let's see $800 for axles, $350 for tires, and to do it right you would probably want to go to a smaller rim size to get more sidewall rubber so you might as well get some lightweight Motegi's(these alone could drop a tenth off ET) and those are $450 for a pair- then to make the rear match it would cost anther $600. Then a few suspension mods.......... look on the bright side the quaife came stock so you can at least skip this $2,000 expense. I went through all this on my Daytona but I was not able to skip the $2,000 cost of the quaife 
.
.
10-14-2006, 10:00 AM
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If he pulled on you that easy he wasn't stock or you were doing something wrong.
As for the ACR package it isn't anything but suspension.
The reason our cars have really bad traction issues is because our cars were also built to handle. That plus instant torque from the S/C and blamo traction issues.
As for the ACR package it isn't anything but suspension.
The reason our cars have really bad traction issues is because our cars were also built to handle. That plus instant torque from the S/C and blamo traction issues.
10-14-2006, 10:05 AM
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"That plus instant torque from the S/C and blamo traction issues."
Try getting on an SRT4 from a dead stop and you will find the traction issues are very similiar or any front drive with gobs of power.
Try getting on an SRT4 from a dead stop and you will find the traction issues are very similiar or any front drive with gobs of power.
10-14-2006, 12:24 PM
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Ok here's an unbiased opinion, I happen to own both 
When I was stock turbo, brake boosting did absolutely nothing in any gear, the stock turbo is so small in the srt that it spools fast, no brake boosting needed. The car you raced must have had some simple mods like a wastegate actuator or you're not the best driver.
Watch out fot the srt's though because pretty much all of them in my area are not stock, they're so easy to get 107+ trap speeds out of it's not even funny, I bought a used big turbo kit for cheap and am running 12.8@117MPH on street tires with real traction issues, I just wish our cobalts could do the same but it seems like it'll be a while before er can get there.
Seriously get some good rubber up front, like a set of Falken RT-615's or Goodyear GS D03's and you'll be amazed at how much better first and second gear will be.
When I was stock turbo, brake boosting did absolutely nothing in any gear, the stock turbo is so small in the srt that it spools fast, no brake boosting needed. The car you raced must have had some simple mods like a wastegate actuator or you're not the best driver.Watch out fot the srt's though because pretty much all of them in my area are not stock, they're so easy to get 107+ trap speeds out of it's not even funny, I bought a used big turbo kit for cheap and am running 12.8@117MPH on street tires with real traction issues, I just wish our cobalts could do the same but it seems like it'll be a while before er can get there.
Seriously get some good rubber up front, like a set of Falken RT-615's or Goodyear GS D03's and you'll be amazed at how much better first and second gear will be.
10-14-2006, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by IROC R/T
As far as tires go what are the best options to get traction with on a Cobalt short of slicks? Something with a little more sidewall than the stock 17's or are they 18's? I don't think you will find anything in 17's or 18's that will give enough traction to help. Then if you do find traction it sounds like you will have to get after market axles at $800 a pair. Let's see $800 for axles, $350 for tires, and to do it right you would probably want to go to a smaller rim size to get more sidewall rubber so you might as well get some lightweight Motegi's(these alone could drop a tenth off ET) and those are $450 for a pair- then to make the rear match it would cost anther $600. Then a few suspension mods.......... look on the bright side the quaife came stock so you can at least skip this $2,000 expense. I went through all this on my Daytona but I was not able to skip the $2,000 cost of the quaife .
.my plan is to drop our stock 18" rims for 17" and getting DR's. Nitto NT555R's in a 245/45r17. Should be a large improvement. Warm pirellis are good for street and give above average road traction but they are not very good for launching. car just has too much power for these tires. I feel a bigger foot print will help and sticky drag radials will be good. Some swear by Nittos and others prefer BFG's. BFG offers 225/45R17 but not a 245/45R17. I think the NITTOs will be as good but could very well be better. we shall see.
the only car I know of that ran a 245/45R17 was the time attack COBALT by GMperformance with HOOSERS.
Anybody running this tire?
Anybody measure the width of the NA SS 17" rim?
I am currently looking for 7.5 to 8.5 wide 17"'s. I know GM says the 17" rim is 7"wide, but they say the 18" wheel is 7" too, but it is actually 7.5". I measured it at my friends I have that are licenced mechanics. One of the guys belongs to a race team that runs a alcohol burner that runs a pass in less than 6 seconds. Please dont question these guys in their ability to measure a rim. it was done with an approved caliper.
10-14-2006, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Pablo
Ok here's an unbiased opinion, I happen to own both When I was stock turbo, brake boosting did absolutely nothing in any gear, the stock turbo is so small in the srt that it spools fast, no brake boosting needed. The car you raced must have had some simple mods like a wastegate actuator or you're not the best driver.
Watch out fot the srt's though because pretty much all of them in my area are not stock, they're so easy to get 107+ trap speeds out of it's not even funny, I bought a used big turbo kit for cheap and am running 12.8@117MPH on street tires with real traction issues, I just wish our cobalts could do the same but it seems like it'll be a while before er can get there.
Seriously get some good rubber up front, like a set of Falken RT-615's or Goodyear GS D03's and you'll be amazed at how much better first and second gear will be.
When I was stock turbo, brake boosting did absolutely nothing in any gear, the stock turbo is so small in the srt that it spools fast, no brake boosting needed. The car you raced must have had some simple mods like a wastegate actuator or you're not the best driver.Watch out fot the srt's though because pretty much all of them in my area are not stock, they're so easy to get 107+ trap speeds out of it's not even funny, I bought a used big turbo kit for cheap and am running 12.8@117MPH on street tires with real traction issues, I just wish our cobalts could do the same but it seems like it'll be a while before er can get there.
Seriously get some good rubber up front, like a set of Falken RT-615's or Goodyear GS D03's and you'll be amazed at how much better first and second gear will be.
10-14-2006, 02:07 PM
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speaking from experience you cobalt guys should listen to me SERIOUSLY i used to have a gtp with about 340 -350 crank hp i would spin the yokohama v4's all the way to 50 well i bought some dunlop super sport race dot compound street strip drag tires and i never heard my gtp squeal the tires again i went from running neck and neck with a 03 stock mustang gt to spanking a new 05 mustang gt it was the biggest and best difference i will never race on stockers again and the nitto 555's if there not the drag tires i would be kinda skeptical look for a good deal on an 18 inch dot compound like i had on my gtp YES THATS RIGHT 18 INCH DRAG TIRE ON A GTP NO PEELING OUT WHATSOEVER I WAS SHOCKED
10-14-2006, 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by ssnipes
I dont know about the axles but others have ran 255/50r16 with stock axles and no problems.
my plan is to drop our stock 18" rims for 17" and getting DR's. Nitto NT555R's in a 245/45r17. Should be a large improvement. Warm pirellis are good for street and give above average road traction but they are not very good for launching. car just has too much power for these tires. I feel a bigger foot print will help and sticky drag radials will be good. Some swear by Nittos and others prefer BFG's. BFG offers 225/45R17 but not a 245/45R17. I think the NITTOs will be as good but could very well be better. we shall see.
the only car I know of that ran a 245/45R17 was the time attack COBALT by GMperformance with HOOSERS.
Anybody running this tire?
Anybody measure the width of the NA SS 17" rim?
I am currently looking for 7.5 to 8.5 wide 17"'s. I know GM says the 17" rim is 7"wide, but they say the 18" wheel is 7" too, but it is actually 7.5". I measured it at my friends I have that are licenced mechanics. One of the guys belongs to a race team that runs a alcohol burner that runs a pass in less than 6 seconds. Please dont question these guys in their ability to measure a rim. it was done with an approved caliper.
my plan is to drop our stock 18" rims for 17" and getting DR's. Nitto NT555R's in a 245/45r17. Should be a large improvement. Warm pirellis are good for street and give above average road traction but they are not very good for launching. car just has too much power for these tires. I feel a bigger foot print will help and sticky drag radials will be good. Some swear by Nittos and others prefer BFG's. BFG offers 225/45R17 but not a 245/45R17. I think the NITTOs will be as good but could very well be better. we shall see.
the only car I know of that ran a 245/45R17 was the time attack COBALT by GMperformance with HOOSERS.
Anybody running this tire?
Anybody measure the width of the NA SS 17" rim?
I am currently looking for 7.5 to 8.5 wide 17"'s. I know GM says the 17" rim is 7"wide, but they say the 18" wheel is 7" too, but it is actually 7.5". I measured it at my friends I have that are licenced mechanics. One of the guys belongs to a race team that runs a alcohol burner that runs a pass in less than 6 seconds. Please dont question these guys in their ability to measure a rim. it was done with an approved caliper.
and about the rims.... gm decided to make a fucked up bolt pattern on our cars so there are only like 10 rims to choose from period....
out of the lightest rims there was 2 a reallly ugly chrome and a sorta ugly black...
i thought it was ugly just because the chrome lip and center otherwise its cool
i think it was a 7.5 inside
10-15-2006, 03:09 AM
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wow, can't believe I missed your thread steven. lol. yea, just like when you called me and I told you the srt couldn't be stock, everyone seems to agree. with your mods, you should have pulled away like a sling shot. he was definitely modded and the acr package is only suspension, not power. You still need tires though, so I would definitely go that route for now.
10-15-2006, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by SLOWBALT06
speaking from experience you cobalt guys should listen to me SERIOUSLY i used to have a gtp with about 340 -350 crank hp i would spin the yokohama v4's all the way to 50 well i bought some dunlop super sport race dot compound street strip drag tires and i never heard my gtp squeal the tires again i went from running neck and neck with a 03 stock mustang gt to spanking a new 05 mustang gt it was the biggest and best difference i will never race on stockers again and the nitto 555's if there not the drag tires i would be kinda skeptical look for a good deal on an 18 inch dot compound like i had on my gtp YES THATS RIGHT 18 INCH DRAG TIRE ON A GTP NO PEELING OUT WHATSOEVER I WAS SHOCKED
10-15-2006, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by SLOWBALT06
speaking from experience you cobalt guys should listen to me SERIOUSLY i used to have a gtp with about 340 -350 crank hp i would spin the yokohama v4's all the way to 50 well i bought some dunlop super sport race dot compound street strip drag tires and i never heard my gtp squeal the tires again i went from running neck and neck with a 03 stock mustang gt to spanking a new 05 mustang gt it was the biggest and best difference i will never race on stockers again and the nitto 555's if there not the drag tires i would be kinda skeptical look for a good deal on an 18 inch dot compound like i had on my gtp YES THATS RIGHT 18 INCH DRAG TIRE ON A GTP NO PEELING OUT WHATSOEVER I WAS SHOCKED
10-15-2006, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by codyss
If he pulled on you that easy he wasn't stock or you were doing something wrong.
As for the ACR package it isn't anything but suspension.
The reason our cars have really bad traction issues is because our cars were also built to handle. That plus instant torque from the S/C and blamo traction issues.
As for the ACR package it isn't anything but suspension.
The reason our cars have really bad traction issues is because our cars were also built to handle. That plus instant torque from the S/C and blamo traction issues.
10-16-2006, 12:54 PM
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The ACR package is all suspension, so don't worry about that part. The 20 roll from him would most likely be in second. This car has an unbelievable short 1st gear. The 40 roll...well lets just say that a 3rd gear 40 roll in an SRT-4 is right where the powerband begins. You raced him in the strong point of his car.You can just **** on an SRT-4 and make power out of it. All it takes is a waste gate, and you can spike 17-19 pounds and hols 14-16.
10-16-2006, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by West Palm SRT4
The ACR package is all suspension, so don't worry about that part. The 20 roll from him would most likely be in second. This car has an unbelievable short 1st gear. The 40 roll...well lets just say that a 3rd gear 40 roll in an SRT-4 is right where the powerband begins. You raced him in the strong point of his car.You can just **** on an SRT-4 and make power out of it. All it takes is a waste gate, and you can spike 17-19 pounds and hols 14-16.
10-16-2006, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by SLOWBALT06
thousand dollars and your running mid 13's
10-17-2006, 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by SLOWBALT06
thousand dollars and your running mid 13's
