Clutch not disengaging
09-12-2017, 02:34 AM
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
Clutch not disengaging
Alright guys, I've been using posts on here trying to diagnose and fix this issue. Car's been down for about a month now. Anyone willing to help me out would be much appreciated. So I'll jump into it.
2008 cobalt ss tc basically stock, no transmission mods except I was told it got an aftermarket clutch before I got it. Been shifting and pulling fine for over three years now, so I know there's no problem with the clutches installation.
it all started when the car wasn't wanting to go into gear and I noticed i was grinding and missing second even though I was pretty sure I wasn't letting off clutch too soon. Sure enough, it ended up not wanting to go in at all, then not into any gear. Can go through all gears with it off and when I start it in first with clutch down it rolls forward. I can see the clutch depressing while a friend pushes the pedal. Had to shift without clutch to get it home before it got parked.
As far as what I've done so far: tried bleeding it for hours upon hours, flushed old fluid, replaced clutch master clyinder, and something worth noting...the little rubber nipple that sits on top of the clutch pipe from the TOB had basically disintegrated so I replaced it before anything else. Was spraying fluid around the elbow. Not sure how that happened and was hoping that was it, yet here i am. I don't see leaks anywhere. I hooked up hand bleeder tool to the top of clutch pipe coming out of tranny and pumped it, it's holding pressure. Which is why I don't think it's the TOB. Seems like air is still coming from bleeder valve when opened but no idea where cause there can't be that much air in the system for as long as I've bled it. Even checked all the o-rings on the line from the master to the silver metal elbow.
so what? Pita TOB, ungodly amounts of air somewhere, or could there be a small leak in a line I'm not seeing? Feel free to tell me it's an obvious and easy fix cause I'm in no position to drop a tranny. Thanks for any help guys.
P.S. anyone got a functional trans they wanna part ways with
2008 cobalt ss tc basically stock, no transmission mods except I was told it got an aftermarket clutch before I got it. Been shifting and pulling fine for over three years now, so I know there's no problem with the clutches installation.
it all started when the car wasn't wanting to go into gear and I noticed i was grinding and missing second even though I was pretty sure I wasn't letting off clutch too soon. Sure enough, it ended up not wanting to go in at all, then not into any gear. Can go through all gears with it off and when I start it in first with clutch down it rolls forward. I can see the clutch depressing while a friend pushes the pedal. Had to shift without clutch to get it home before it got parked.
As far as what I've done so far: tried bleeding it for hours upon hours, flushed old fluid, replaced clutch master clyinder, and something worth noting...the little rubber nipple that sits on top of the clutch pipe from the TOB had basically disintegrated so I replaced it before anything else. Was spraying fluid around the elbow. Not sure how that happened and was hoping that was it, yet here i am. I don't see leaks anywhere. I hooked up hand bleeder tool to the top of clutch pipe coming out of tranny and pumped it, it's holding pressure. Which is why I don't think it's the TOB. Seems like air is still coming from bleeder valve when opened but no idea where cause there can't be that much air in the system for as long as I've bled it. Even checked all the o-rings on the line from the master to the silver metal elbow.
so what? Pita TOB, ungodly amounts of air somewhere, or could there be a small leak in a line I'm not seeing? Feel free to tell me it's an obvious and easy fix cause I'm in no position to drop a tranny. Thanks for any help guys.
P.S. anyone got a functional trans they wanna part ways with
09-12-2017, 11:44 AM
#3
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
^Start with making sure the cables are good.
Then try bleeding the system how GM instructs you to, pull vacuum (I forget what they call for in inHg) on the brake fluid reservoir for 15mins, pump the pedal 10-15 smoothly, and then repeat until pedal feel is normal.
Then try bleeding the system how GM instructs you to, pull vacuum (I forget what they call for in inHg) on the brake fluid reservoir for 15mins, pump the pedal 10-15 smoothly, and then repeat until pedal feel is normal.
09-12-2017, 07:11 PM
#4
New Member
Thread Starter
How would you suggest I check the cables? It seems to travel to all the gears fine with it off. It'll even start in gear, but the clutch wont disengage.
and as for the gm way of bleeding, I think they said 15. I got a cap drilled and put a fitting on it but I think air is leaking around the cap. Wont hold pressure. So how do I make it air tight without having to use some gasket maker or something? I'm sure there's a proper way they do it.
thanks for the assistance.
and as for the gm way of bleeding, I think they said 15. I got a cap drilled and put a fitting on it but I think air is leaking around the cap. Wont hold pressure. So how do I make it air tight without having to use some gasket maker or something? I'm sure there's a proper way they do it.
thanks for the assistance.
09-12-2017, 07:35 PM
#5
I guess if you're able to shift without the clutch then your shifter cables work.
What I did was buy a Tub Stopper and put a fitting through it with some RTV to seal it. Works well.
Unless you can find a leak outside of the bellhousing, I can't think of a cause that doesn't involve dropping the tranny.
What I did was buy a Tub Stopper and put a fitting through it with some RTV to seal it. Works well.
Unless you can find a leak outside of the bellhousing, I can't think of a cause that doesn't involve dropping the tranny.
