tom5170

Can this be done? Can I unbolt the side pan and move it over just enough to get to the shift solenoids?

It would be nice if I didn’t have to mess around with unbolting the trans mounts and supporting the engine etc to get the pan off. I can handle removing the cv axle and fuse box.

Sharkey

iTrader: (1)

well, the top trans mount actually bolts into the side cover of the trans from the top, so you will need to unbolt that. you also will have to lower the subframe down and lower the trans a ways to get that side cover off.

tom5170

So removing fuse box to get to that mount, and then removing wheel assembly won't allow me just enough clearance to slide pan over a few inches before it hits the frame? I dread lowering subframe and do all that extra work lol.

A transmission shop quoted me $575 to change all the shift solenoids. Does this sound good?

Sharkey

iTrader: (1)

yea that sounds about right. its a fair bit of work.

just out of curiosity, why are you changing the shift solenoids? rarely are there issues with the solenoids themselves. if they are setting codes for open/short circuit generally you will find a problem with a wiring harness (either between the tcm and trans or inside the trans) or if you have a performance code (shift solenoid stuck on/off) its not actually the solenoid stuck, its something deeper in the transmission causing the problem. gm is kinda vague on some of the transmission codes on the 4 speed autos, its best to follow the gm diagnostics to a T before you start throwing parts at it.

tom5170

I talked to a few local transmission shops here and they all said that these cobalts are notorious for the shift solenoids failing. One of the guys said that the solenoids 'melt down' because of the heat from the transmission and the fluid and the way they are positioned inside the transmission. I ended up taking the car to him and gave him a print out of a GM tsb pertaining to this code. He said that the first thing he would do is hook up his scanner and drive it, and then probably drop the pan and check for debris and go from there.

He did say that if the shift valve is sticking and causing the stuck on code, that it could be something major wrong and that's why he wants to drop the pan.

I did replace the ground on the transmission and that didn't do anything. I also checked the TCM wire harness where it touches the oil filter housing and didn't find anything melted or damaged. I zip tied it out of the way

tom5170

ended up being the shift soleoid. replaced solenoid and trans shift as good as new

Clifton

My car for the last few days been acting up similar, revs up before jerking to 2nd gear. I would let off the pedal as it revs, then hit the gas it'll vibrate. Once the car warms up it shifts normal so it's not the trans itself.

tom5170

Sounds like it could be the shift solenoid.

I didn't have any RPM/shifting issues leading up to failure though.