Clutch Bleeding Frustrations
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Clutch Bleeding Frustrations
I recently installed the GM performance clutch & throwout bearing along with a new pipe from the slave to the slave block. I also installed an aluminum flywheel. I have been driving the car for 2 days now and the pedal still doest feel quite right. I have been pumping the pedal and applying vacuum as well for the past two days whenever i park, not to mention after initial install.... are there any tips or tricks or ideas or something else i am missing to make this pedal come back. it engages right at the floor and is difficult to shift. any information will be helpful, thank you
Steve
Steve
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if his oem one isnt bent then the rod is a bandaid and he isnt really fixing the issue. OP did you make sure the clutch pipe was tight and seated right into the slave cylinder? If not you could be pulling air back into the system. I also bled mine traditionally with another person pump and hold method. Took a while but my pedal is hard as a rock
#5
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It still sounds like an air issue. I've vacuum bled the systems and had them come out perfect, seems that some cars just don't work that smoothly though. Try old-fashioned bleeding. I got a good pedal out of an Exedy car with just the vac bleeder, but it doesn't work that well on all clutch jobs for some reason.
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thanks for the input guys. i am sure the pipe is tight. it snapped into place like it was supposed to. also, there is no evidence of fluid leakage.
on the way to the CED show this weekend, the clutch completely went away while driving. we pulled up to a toll booth and had no clutch to shift into gear and move the car. we were able to limp the car off to the side where i shut it off and applied the vacuum to it and let it cool and sit. after a while, i pumped the pedal and were able to get enough to get the car moving again. i then stopped at a trans shop where they had the car for 2 hrs and said yeah, you are doing everything right. the only thing we can do is pull the trans out and bench bleed the whole system and install it as an assembly. needless to say, i said no thanks and left continuing on to our destination. it appears as though the clutch is leaking down during driving and has to be pumped up before each use.
this tells me there should be an air leak somewhere, but wouldnt fluid leak out as well? could the master cylinder have decided to take a **** now too???
what should my next step be? thanks
Steve
on the way to the CED show this weekend, the clutch completely went away while driving. we pulled up to a toll booth and had no clutch to shift into gear and move the car. we were able to limp the car off to the side where i shut it off and applied the vacuum to it and let it cool and sit. after a while, i pumped the pedal and were able to get enough to get the car moving again. i then stopped at a trans shop where they had the car for 2 hrs and said yeah, you are doing everything right. the only thing we can do is pull the trans out and bench bleed the whole system and install it as an assembly. needless to say, i said no thanks and left continuing on to our destination. it appears as though the clutch is leaking down during driving and has to be pumped up before each use.
this tells me there should be an air leak somewhere, but wouldnt fluid leak out as well? could the master cylinder have decided to take a **** now too???
what should my next step be? thanks
Steve
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I spoke with Tom today. He says if the part is defective it should be warranted. I am not sure it is thought, it seems if there was a leak i would see wetness. please correct me if i am wrong on this assumption.
also, i believe they only share the reservoir. I could also be wrong on this, but if i am correct the clutch master is directly behind the clutch pedal...
also, i believe they only share the reservoir. I could also be wrong on this, but if i am correct the clutch master is directly behind the clutch pedal...
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almost. not completely. I have been replacing it with DOT 4 brake fluid. I want to flush the entire brake and clutch system with new DOT4. just want it to work right now.
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i bleed it by this way. want to my dealer for vaccum bleeding. it was worst.
when i cannot ingage it i pull over and remove air from the line.
there is a cap that you can put a hose.
then removed Cclip.
pull on the line about 1/16''.
DOt should come by the tube.
something you can see bubble.
but i m case, i got some saw dust because i loose my cap reservoir. i worked at a sawmill
dont forget that if you still have micro air bubble, you still have air. a lot micro bubble make small bubble.
Last edited by huckernage; 06-28-2010 at 08:31 PM.
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we have a bleeder port on top of the bellhousing where the clutch pipe goes into on the F35 to bleed ours
Last edited by zrated89; 06-28-2010 at 08:17 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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still no suggestions huh? I just replaced the master cylinder and still no improvement. I guess the next step may be the zzp rod... then if that doesnt work, its all coming back apart... woo hoo ( not really ) but i dont know what else to do...
#16
you know when i was running at langley i was having a problem where my clutch was slipping, and the clutch would start engaging soon as i let of the pedal. I never did flush my fluid i think i may
we have a bleeder port on top of the bellhousing where the clutch pipe goes into on the F35 to bleed ours
we have a bleeder port on top of the bellhousing where the clutch pipe goes into on the F35 to bleed ours
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still has air in your line
or
is your reservoir keep level or you have to put DOT 3 eveyday.
can you put a picture like mine. i want see someting if u can
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Clutch Pedal Changes Rest Position
I have an 06 SS SC with the "Exact" same problem, and NO Solution (as yet).
Dealer has changed the clutch master cylinder twice, the slave cylinder, clutch disc & pressure plate and nothing is leaking. My normal mode of operation while driving now is to pump the pedal (just the freeplay, not dis-engage the clutch) until the pedal comes up where it belongs. I have no idea and it is the only thing that has been wrong with the car.
Dealer has changed the clutch master cylinder twice, the slave cylinder, clutch disc & pressure plate and nothing is leaking. My normal mode of operation while driving now is to pump the pedal (just the freeplay, not dis-engage the clutch) until the pedal comes up where it belongs. I have no idea and it is the only thing that has been wrong with the car.
Last edited by Pauleboy; 08-16-2010 at 09:49 AM. Reason: Mis-spelling
#19
What did you ended up doing?
I have have the same issue, just cant get the clutch to work ! Any help would be great appreciated ! Thansk
I have an 06 SS SC with the "Exact" same problem, and NO Solution (as yet).
Dealer has changed the clutch master cylinder twice, the slave cylinder, clutch disc & pressure plate and nothing is leaking. My normal mode of operation while driving now is to pump the pedal (just the freeplay, not dis-engage the clutch) until the pedal comes up where it belongs. I have no idea and it is the only thing that has been wrong with the car.
Dealer has changed the clutch master cylinder twice, the slave cylinder, clutch disc & pressure plate and nothing is leaking. My normal mode of operation while driving now is to pump the pedal (just the freeplay, not dis-engage the clutch) until the pedal comes up where it belongs. I have no idea and it is the only thing that has been wrong with the car.
#20
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Is there a factory bleed procedure? My 2006 Pontiac needs you to apply and release a vacuum multiple times to help it bleed.
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