clutch install problems
 

Alright so a buddy of mine and I last week decided to tackle the infamous clutch install. I had two days off from work to do it. We spent about 32 hours getting everything apart and back together. So after we finish we attempt to bleed the system and have the tranny leak a bunch of brake fluid between the tranny and the block. I know when attaching the slave cylinder distribution block up you need a "fitting cap" to put on top of it. But we couldn't find one or don't have one or something. So I now have a car that leaks brake fluid and won't run. Is this just take the thing back apart and replace the slave cylinder? Or are there any other guesses as to whats going on with the tranny? Thanks! :cssNET:

Its coming from inside the trans, not the line on the top, right?

You did all that work and didn't replace the slave? Ouch.

don't have the money... But now its a credit card charging and hopes to pay it off sometime. Nothing leaking from the top of the tranny its leaking at the bolt on the bottom of the tranny towards the cabin. I am guessing its the slave but not positive.... Any PDF on how to do that? Afraid to take it apart again, it was an absolutely miserable job!

I feel your pain coulda shoulda didna....the stickies tell it all next time read them...fit a new OEM slave...support the engine and drop the cradle it should be easier second time around you know a lot more now...best of luck

I think the OEM slave is about $100 or so. At least thats what I remember from the receipt I got from the racing shop that did my clutch install.

Under $90 from the dealer for me, so yeah.

The job itself isn't that bad, the removal and such is a long process but not terribly hard. One whole day with two people and its out, clutch changed, and back up. No lift either.

The slave cylinder must be replaced no matter what on these clutch jobs or it will fail!

What do you mean by attaching the slave cylinder distribution block? There is a clip that goes into the fitting that is removed to pull the line off the slave block, but there is no reason to remove the block itself. Also, if you did remove the block, did you screw the fitting for the line that goes into the slave back in then? If not, that is where your leak is coming from and it will require you to pull everything back apart as well.

I continually kept reading this but I had a good buddy of mine installed his clutch like a month ago and didn't have replace the slave so I was assuming that I could do the same. I also had some slight problems with the electronic steering rack when I did the install as well. After I had it towed to the dealer they rest the rack. The steering wheel had to be upside down for the car to go straight. So they fixed that and I afraid to mess that up again if I take it back apart.

According to this pdf: http://www.gmperformancedivision.com...SJ_Chap5&6.pdf

There is a small "fitting cap" that needs to be put on on the top of the distribution block when you reattach it. This "fitting" is on the bottom of page 16 and the top of page 17 on the file. I am guessing that is my problem cause I couldn't find the cap or didn't see or whatever. Thanks guys keep the information coming.

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I had a rip in that little seal on the top of the transmission. I got a new one from the dealer and then the original slave went bad right after. Had to pull the trans again and change the slave.

Now this weekend my slave is messing up again, can't get the car into gear sometimes, and my exedy clutch was slipping in 3rd gear at the track with drag radials. It was less than 10 000kms since I did it.

Probably got brake fluid on the clutch disk...

Could be. But I have not gone down on fluid. And last summer when I did the slave after it went bad none had got on the clutch.

I'm not looking forward to pulling the tranny for the 3rd time lol. Time for a built auto I think :lol:

So if brake fluid did get on the clutch, can it just be cleaned or is it like brake shoes? Once they are sturated with fluid, they are fucked?

good question.... bumping for the problem still sitting in my garage.... I need to get it running so I can stop driving this damn cavalier!

yea my slave is dead, i didn't replace it, was told to when i installed clutch, it was saterdaynight/sunday morning no dealer was open couldn't find one so i dind't since i needed my car on monday morning...

i had a tech that works on these cars with me helping me so I know it was all good, but he said get one ASAP so i have a slave cylinder chilling on my work bench just no time to replace it...

it cost me about 115$ from dealer

clutch that touches brake fluid is dead...so im told, if my slave goes and leaks on my clutch, the clutch is dead...

Damn, well I know what I'm doing soon :(

BlackSS/SC you should be able to contact Exedy and get a new disk if that has indeed happened.

Also, when you guys are bleeding the clutches, vacuum bleeding them can cause damage to the slave as well if overdone. The last couple of times I just did it the old school way with one person pumping/holding inside while the other cracks and tightens the bleeder. This seems to work for me and I haven't had an issue since.

207GT04, I have to logon on to the wireless to see the pdf. My computer is blocking it for some reason here at work.

I think its just going to have to go to the dealer and hope I don't get killed. I don't have the time or money to do either but just sick of messing with it. And it probably is the slave just hoping to not get utterly killed here on labor....

and for future reference... Those tranny inserts went in really easy once we lite the old rubber inserts on fire lol

Ya, I tried vacuum bleeding the original slave after I did the swap the first time. It didn't work, that may very well have been the cause of the slave going the first time. After that I have just bleed it the old way and it worked fine.

I've been in touch with Exedy on this too, probably going to get a new disc and slave and pull it apart again.

Is there an upgraded slave cylinder?

There are no upgraded slave cylinders that I know of unfortunately. I wish there was.

As for what the dealership will charge, you're looking at $750 in labor and then the price for the part. That's what it cost me when I let them do one of the Clutchmaster's fuck ups I had, and that was the last time I paid for them to do one!

I'll be doing it myself. I work in a shop and have a hoist :twothumbs

:lol: The labor comment was for the OP. Nice that you have a hoist though because I have done it on jackstands several times now and it blows! Back hurt for like a week after! ;)

Its not going to cost me all that much in labor.... I have some special stuff going on that will cost me about 35 an hour for labor. Is there anyway to know if brake fluid got on the clutch without taking it back apart? Like black ss/sc did you have to replace the clutch the first time when you bleed it and it leaked? I am hoping that mine is still good and that all I will be paying for is the labor and part for a new slave cylinder. I am guessing that if its fugged I should probably slide some more stuff on the credit card for this and just get another clutch?

Oh :lol: No prob :lol:

Hoist makes things easy :lol:

Hey I read the clutch install PDF, and it you don't replace that cap it will leak all over the place. You need to replace that cap no matter what. I think your clutch will be fine, you just need to get that cap.

Also, for future reference do not take that apart ever again! :lol: Just pull the "u" clip out and separate the line from the block and leave the rest alone. There is no need to do it like the PDF stated. I have no idea why GM said you had to mess with it, but you don't!

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re q-d this is the second time you are doing it so be careful: take the hairpin clip out of the quick disconnect clutch fitting on the bellhousing (behind the air inlet and between the ECU and the engine) and turn it over. Make sure you do NOT see in the female q-d orifice, a little O ring in the socket of the q-d. IF YOU DO, Remove it carefully with a small pick and then put the o ring back on the male post for the q-d which is attached to the bellhousing. Then place the q-d back press firmly, reinstall the hair pin clip and bleed the clutch. If you remove the slave from the block, then use teflon tape on the threads of the connector. This is a flared fitting and seals on theGM style tube flare, which is good, but the teflon tape is a little extra band aid in case dont want to take it apart again!

bleeding should be easy vacuum is best IMHO but the old pump hold down and bleed works with 2 people well enough. dont run out of brake fluid in the reservoir.

oh put a little grease on the pilot shaft just my 2 cents