Firm Up Stock Shifter
#1
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Firm Up Stock Shifter
I broke my roll pin once, and got a cheap thin NAPA one in there now. But I just stretched it again tonight. My shifter now has way more play than my friends '92 3KGT.
I've ordered heavy duty ones from McMaster-Carr
What else can I easily replace to really firm up the stock shifter? The roll pin is probably the hardest.
Friend has told me to buy poly urethane bushings and clamps if I could.
Where/who can/should I get quality parts from like these without spending too much?
I've ordered heavy duty ones from McMaster-Carr
What else can I easily replace to really firm up the stock shifter? The roll pin is probably the hardest.
Friend has told me to buy poly urethane bushings and clamps if I could.
Where/who can/should I get quality parts from like these without spending too much?
#2
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TWM base bushings. TWM Performance Chevrolet Cobalt SS/TC Bushing Kits
They replace the stock rubber bushings and are a pretty easy install. Not a night and day difference but an improvement for sure.
Their cable clamps don't improve feel, but will improve reliability. Chevrolet Cobalt Cable Clamp - TWM Performance
They replace the stock rubber bushings and are a pretty easy install. Not a night and day difference but an improvement for sure.
Their cable clamps don't improve feel, but will improve reliability. Chevrolet Cobalt Cable Clamp - TWM Performance
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TWM base bushings. TWM Performance Chevrolet Cobalt SS/TC Bushing Kits
They replace the stock rubber bushings and are a pretty easy install. Not a night and day difference but an improvement for sure.
Their cable clamps don't improve feel, but will improve reliability. Chevrolet Cobalt Cable Clamp - TWM Performance
They replace the stock rubber bushings and are a pretty easy install. Not a night and day difference but an improvement for sure.
Their cable clamps don't improve feel, but will improve reliability. Chevrolet Cobalt Cable Clamp - TWM Performance
Ah, I thought clamps improved feel. Maybe I was thinking about the upgraded LNF shift bracket?
#4
Base bushings will improve feel quite a bit, though with your car being a 2006 it's nether going to be fun nor easy. By now the stock rubber bushings are fused to the studs. Good luck getting them out. My 2008 was a bitch and yours are 2 years older.
LNF bracket will help the roll pin issue. Well worth the investment.
LNF bracket will help the roll pin issue. Well worth the investment.
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Base bushings will improve feel quite a bit, though with your car being a 2006 it's nether going to be fun nor easy. By now the stock rubber bushings are fused to the studs. Good luck getting them out. My 2008 was a bitch and yours are 2 years older.
LNF bracket will help the roll pin issue. Well worth the investment.
LNF bracket will help the roll pin issue. Well worth the investment.
Know of a How To on the forums?
I'm picking up that bracket next paycheck. I've read that it will also help with shifter slop.
I've already been dead on the road, because of a broken pin, and I can already feel my second one is stretched. Fortunately, my upgraded roll pins will be here this evening.
Things would be a lot more affordable if shipping wasn't so much. Those bushings are small, and I'm being charged $12 just to ship them.. lol. Same thing with the bracket from CED. ZZP has shipping right, but their markup is like 30%, but business is business.
#6
There is a base bushings how to on TWM's site, with pictures. When you order them they will usually send you a photocopy with your order. It's really extensive and very well done.
Short version is remove the console, unbolt the 4 bolts that hold the shifter base down. Yell, scream, swear, sweat, bleed, and bash things with large hammers. Eventually the rubbers come out and you replace them with aluminum.
Short version is remove the console, unbolt the 4 bolts that hold the shifter base down. Yell, scream, swear, sweat, bleed, and bash things with large hammers. Eventually the rubbers come out and you replace them with aluminum.
#7
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There is a base bushings how to on TWM's site, with pictures. When you order them they will usually send you a photocopy with your order. It's really extensive and very well done.
Short version is remove the console, unbolt the 4 bolts that hold the shifter base down. Yell, scream, swear, sweat, bleed, and bash things with large hammers. Eventually the rubbers come out and you replace them with aluminum.
Short version is remove the console, unbolt the 4 bolts that hold the shifter base down. Yell, scream, swear, sweat, bleed, and bash things with large hammers. Eventually the rubbers come out and you replace them with aluminum.
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There is a base bushings how to on TWM's site, with pictures. When you order them they will usually send you a photocopy with your order. It's really extensive and very well done.
Short version is remove the console, unbolt the 4 bolts that hold the shifter base down. Yell, scream, swear, sweat, bleed, and bash things with large hammers. Eventually the rubbers come out and you replace them with aluminum.
Short version is remove the console, unbolt the 4 bolts that hold the shifter base down. Yell, scream, swear, sweat, bleed, and bash things with large hammers. Eventually the rubbers come out and you replace them with aluminum.
- Upgraded Roll Pins
- LNF Bracket
- Aluminum Base Bushings
Hopefully after all that, my shifter will feel pretty solid.
Otherwise, I'll probably look into a Hurst.
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