Throw-out bearing
 

Long story short, I was pulling into a parking spot at work the other day, and I hit the clutch pedal to stop but the car acted like the clutch wasn't full disengaged. Went to fire up the car that night with the car in gear, and the car kept jumping like the clutch wasn't fully disengaged. I shut it off, put it in neutral, then tried starting it and putting it in gear with no luck.
I had it towed home and tore it down to the tranny. I ordered a new LSJ throw-out bearing from CED and replaced it. I got a lot of it back together and decided to try the clutch pedal. When I hit the pedal, it went to the floor (which I expected as I had only gravity bled it), and made a hissing noise like fluid was shooting out. Surely enough, seconds later fluid started dripping out of the bottom of the tranny. I took it back apart again thinking I maybe forgot to tighten the line going into the TOB. The line for the bearing was nice and tight.. I didn't see anywhere else the fluid could be coming from. The back of the bearing was wet. Any ideas here? Maybe a defective TOB?

i had the same thing happen with an lnf bearing, although it blew out the front of the bearing. no idea why it did this. i gravity bled the system and tried the pedal (like i do on all vehicles), it pumped up ok, seemed to work ok, then got stiff on one stroke and then popped. put a new bearing in, did the same thing and it was fine.

Ok so I ordered a new clutch pipe, and reinstalled everything, but I'm still having the same issue.. I pressure bled the clutch with a buddy, and got a lot of air out of the line. The pedal feels ok. Any ideas as to what's going on here? When I hit the clutch pedal, its like I'm only hitting it halfway.. The clutch doesn't seem like its not fully disengaging. When I push the pedal to start it, It bucks slightly like the clutch is still some what engaged.
How connected are the clutch and the brakes? I noticed a drop of brake fluid coming from my RR caliper. Could this be possibly causing air in my clutch lines?

Well if its not your TOB it could be your clutch master cylinder. Either that or somethings up with your clutch. I had similar issues and gm said the pressure plate was messed up.

Use the LNF bearing with a new pipe. Check the bearing closely before install. You should be able to push it in and out easily by hand with no binding or interference of any kind. If it binds or scrapes even a little bit take it back. Bleeding - Put a can of brake fluid under the car with a piece of hose all the way in the bottom of the 3/4 full can of fluid. connect the other end to the bleeder. Pump the clutch pedal a couple times. I did it by hand. Open the bleeder for 2 seconds and close it. Check the fluid level and top off as needed. Repeat !!! Took my about 5 times to bleed all the air out. My ZZP clutch rod is at its shortest length. 1200 miles on my stage 3 and a couple track days with no problem.

its your clutch master cylinder. /thread

Is there a how to on changing the clutch master?

Same procedure as changing the clutch.

Not the slave cylinder... I've changed it already... I'm trying to change the master cylinder

Oh mybad. Remove the fuse box assy and its right there. Youl see a line coming from the brake reserviour to it.

Alright... Clutch master was replaced.. some isame issue still exist. Although its not as noisy when the clutch is rengaging, its a pain to get in 2 gear, 4th gear.

Then you still have air in your lines.

Hmmm.. illl try to pressure bleed it again then....

You might just have to replace the clutch. I know it sucks but after yo eliminated the master and slave that's all that's really left. That's what was wrong with mine. To be sure tho take it to the dealer so your not just throwing parts at it. Just for a second opinion.

I took it to a trans shop, and they said the shifter seemed sloppy, so they checked the linkages buffed all was well.. He said u
It's got to be internal...