help choosing a woofer
help choosing a woofer
Im having a hard time weeding thru everything to find the best of the best woofer for my application. It seems as if i get a different answer from everyplace... So ive decided to ask seperate questions and be more specific in my application goals (and poll as many peeps as possible). Box will be ported using 6" areos. I want a pair of 15s that can accuratly reproduce all bass (especially the lows) @ a 4 ohm load on my amp. At that power i want to be able to go to an sq comp and win. But i want to be able to take it down to 1 ohm and run like meade... subs must be able to handle the power at 1 ohm and sound as good as possible. Daily is where im mainly concerned with but im not sure on how much power i will run for daily (1ohm or 4 ohm) but if i get a quad coil woofer i may just run it at 2ohm but im not sure.
I was looking at the si mag because the new prototype looked promising but looks like the SI mag is out due to D2 only. that makes it a lil easier because im down to 4 woofers
FI Q
DD 9515
05 RE XXX
RD Alpha
so should i try rd audio and see what there worth? go with the Q for sq reasons? take the DD and just have sq on the back burner? or try and find a pair of re XXX's which probably wont happen
below is the sites for the woofers in question
http://www.rdaudio.net/woofers/alpha.php
http://www.ddaudio.com/dd/caraudio/w...p?series=9500g
https://ssl.perfora.net/www.ficaraudio.com/...view.shopscript
I was looking at the si mag because the new prototype looked promising but looks like the SI mag is out due to D2 only. that makes it a lil easier because im down to 4 woofers
FI Q
DD 9515
05 RE XXX
RD Alpha
so should i try rd audio and see what there worth? go with the Q for sq reasons? take the DD and just have sq on the back burner? or try and find a pair of re XXX's which probably wont happen
below is the sites for the woofers in question
http://www.rdaudio.net/woofers/alpha.php
http://www.ddaudio.com/dd/caraudio/w...p?series=9500g
https://ssl.perfora.net/www.ficaraudio.com/...view.shopscript
I would take the Q of those.
But I think you have the wrong approach. A ported box is tuned for a certain freq. It will hit the hard, but if you want tight accurate bass across a broad range of freqs, you should go with a sealed box.
Plus you seem to have picked your port size already before picking your sub. Bad bad bad. You have to use port size/lengths that will tune the box for the optimal freq of the subs you choose. Picking the port size first means you have to pick a sub has a peak ported freq in the range that will be produced from your chosen box and port size.
But I think you have the wrong approach. A ported box is tuned for a certain freq. It will hit the hard, but if you want tight accurate bass across a broad range of freqs, you should go with a sealed box.
Plus you seem to have picked your port size already before picking your sub. Bad bad bad. You have to use port size/lengths that will tune the box for the optimal freq of the subs you choose. Picking the port size first means you have to pick a sub has a peak ported freq in the range that will be produced from your chosen box and port size.
i have 2x10" comp-vr-600watt amp + 1x15" comp-vr-500watt amp
2x6.5" doors + 2x6x9"rear deck plate 400watt amp
2 optima deep cycle battery + 3 1farad stynger capacitors
(mettalica enter sandman) on cd scored 165db, anyone have use for bloody q-tips
kicker rules the audio scene, i dont care if you have JL,LANZAR,BOSTON,JBL,ROCKFORD
i understand eveyone has they'r opinion
lots of guy's out there have excellent products, its just badly connected
my 2 cents, stay away from L7 & SOLO BARICS SERIES
all of the subs you have picked are great subs. They all hold a fairly similar sound quality. You may hear little differences here and there but all and all they are going to sound good. I love the RE XXX series, and the DD is a nice sub, but both of these may be pushing more on the SPL side rather than the SQ that you might be looking for. These are the only two of the list that I have personally had experiance with. So for the other two my opinion is going more of mag and post reviews.
I have a 07cvr12 and i'm so-so about it. The sound reproduction is sub-par. I can't hear a difference between a bass drum and general bass. It all sounds very muddled. I'm very impressed by the solo-barics (super loud, gut-wrenching spl) but sound reproduction is lacking.
-sk
-sk
lol true dat /\
concider taking a look into diamond audio
if you want a good hard hitting sub that still keeps SQ, look into there D9152/4
its a 15 inch dvc sub...the only downside is i dont think its 1 ohm safe, it says dual 2 or dual 4 ohm..1000watts rms, there on the prices side but well worth it.
ive also heard good things about elemental designs stuff
heres a link http://www.diamondaudio.com/content/view/125/139/
concider taking a look into diamond audio
if you want a good hard hitting sub that still keeps SQ, look into there D9152/4
its a 15 inch dvc sub...the only downside is i dont think its 1 ohm safe, it says dual 2 or dual 4 ohm..1000watts rms, there on the prices side but well worth it.
ive also heard good things about elemental designs stuff
heres a link http://www.diamondaudio.com/content/view/125/139/
i have 2x10" comp-vr-600watt amp + 1x15" comp-vr-500watt amp
2x6.5" doors + 2x6x9"rear deck plate 400watt amp
2 optima deep cycle battery + 3 1farad stynger capacitors
(mettalica enter sandman) on cd scored 165db, anyone have use for bloody q-tips
kicker rules the audio scene, i dont care if you have JL,LANZAR,BOSTON,JBL,ROCKFORD
i understand eveyone has they'r opinion
lots of guy's out there have excellent products, its just badly connected
my 2 cents, stay away from L7 & SOLO BARICS SERIES
2x6.5" doors + 2x6x9"rear deck plate 400watt amp
2 optima deep cycle battery + 3 1farad stynger capacitors
(mettalica enter sandman) on cd scored 165db, anyone have use for bloody q-tips
kicker rules the audio scene, i dont care if you have JL,LANZAR,BOSTON,JBL,ROCKFORD
i understand eveyone has they'r opinion
lots of guy's out there have excellent products, its just badly connected
my 2 cents, stay away from L7 & SOLO BARICS SERIES
Yeah, they have.
If he gets two 4ohm dual voice coil subs, he can wire them up as 1ohm (parallel/parallel) or 4ohm (series/parallel). With two 2ohm coils, your actually stuck with ether a 2ohm or 8ohm load, so if you are using two DVC subs, 4ohm is better.
It gets really crazy when you do stuff like my old show truck, with had four 10" crystal clears in it. Wired them up in parallel with a 1ohm load pushing a little less than 400 watts to them. Yes that is less than 100 a speaker, but they had a 93dB efficiency rating. If you know audio, you can figure out they were pushing around 112dB each. Thats why I hate all these "High Power" subs these days. Crap for efficiency.
Example: You have a 12" sub with a 83dB efficiency (common these days) running on 500 watts against a sub with a 12" 90dB efficiency running on 125 watts. Exact same box, everything else about the subs is the same. Unrealistic I know, but it is to prove a point.
Which one is going to be louder? The 90dB efficiency sub. Here is why. The efficiency is the sound output at 1 watt from 1 meter away from the sub. you have to double the power for every 3dB louder you want to go. So you go up 3dB at 2, 4, 8, 16, 32, 64, 128, 256, and 512 watts. Fudging a little (meaning treating the 500 as 512 and the 125 as 128), we end up with the 83dB efficiency/500watt sub hitting 110dB and the 90dB efficiency/125watt sub hitting 111dB. Wow'za, louder for 25% of the power!
I would take the Q of those.
But I think you have the wrong approach. A ported box is tuned for a certain freq. It will hit the hard, but if you want tight accurate bass across a broad range of freqs, you should go with a sealed box.
Plus you seem to have picked your port size already before picking your sub. Bad bad bad. You have to use port size/lengths that will tune the box for the optimal freq of the subs you choose. Picking the port size first means you have to pick a sub has a peak ported freq in the range that will be produced from your chosen box and port size.
But I think you have the wrong approach. A ported box is tuned for a certain freq. It will hit the hard, but if you want tight accurate bass across a broad range of freqs, you should go with a sealed box.
Plus you seem to have picked your port size already before picking your sub. Bad bad bad. You have to use port size/lengths that will tune the box for the optimal freq of the subs you choose. Picking the port size first means you have to pick a sub has a peak ported freq in the range that will be produced from your chosen box and port size.
With 2ohm dual voice coils, you can wire them up as 1ohm (parallel wiring) or 4ohm (series wiring). The ohm load you pick is limited by your amp, which has to be stable at that load. The subs really won't care.
If he gets two 4ohm dual voice coil subs, he can wire them up as 1ohm (parallel/parallel) or 4ohm (series/parallel). With two 2ohm coils, your actually stuck with ether a 2ohm or 8ohm load, so if you are using two DVC subs, 4ohm is better.
It gets really crazy when you do stuff like my old show truck, with had four 10" crystal clears in it. Wired them up in parallel with a 1ohm load pushing a little less than 400 watts to them. Yes that is less than 100 a speaker, but they had a 93dB efficiency rating. If you know audio, you can figure out they were pushing around 112dB each. Thats why I hate all these "High Power" subs these days. Crap for efficiency.
Example: You have a 12" sub with a 83dB efficiency (common these days) running on 500 watts against a sub with a 12" 90dB efficiency running on 125 watts. Exact same box, everything else about the subs is the same. Unrealistic I know, but it is to prove a point.
Which one is going to be louder? The 90dB efficiency sub. Here is why. The efficiency is the sound output at 1 watt from 1 meter away from the sub. you have to double the power for every 3dB louder you want to go. So you go up 3dB at 2, 4, 8, 16, 32, 64, 128, 256, and 512 watts. Fudging a little (meaning treating the 500 as 512 and the 125 as 128), we end up with the 83dB efficiency/500watt sub hitting 110dB and the 90dB efficiency/125watt sub hitting 111dB. Wow'za, louder for 25% of the power!
If he gets two 4ohm dual voice coil subs, he can wire them up as 1ohm (parallel/parallel) or 4ohm (series/parallel). With two 2ohm coils, your actually stuck with ether a 2ohm or 8ohm load, so if you are using two DVC subs, 4ohm is better.
It gets really crazy when you do stuff like my old show truck, with had four 10" crystal clears in it. Wired them up in parallel with a 1ohm load pushing a little less than 400 watts to them. Yes that is less than 100 a speaker, but they had a 93dB efficiency rating. If you know audio, you can figure out they were pushing around 112dB each. Thats why I hate all these "High Power" subs these days. Crap for efficiency.
Example: You have a 12" sub with a 83dB efficiency (common these days) running on 500 watts against a sub with a 12" 90dB efficiency running on 125 watts. Exact same box, everything else about the subs is the same. Unrealistic I know, but it is to prove a point.
Which one is going to be louder? The 90dB efficiency sub. Here is why. The efficiency is the sound output at 1 watt from 1 meter away from the sub. you have to double the power for every 3dB louder you want to go. So you go up 3dB at 2, 4, 8, 16, 32, 64, 128, 256, and 512 watts. Fudging a little (meaning treating the 500 as 512 and the 125 as 128), we end up with the 83dB efficiency/500watt sub hitting 110dB and the 90dB efficiency/125watt sub hitting 111dB. Wow'za, louder for 25% of the power!
Last edited by EmperorJJ1; May 16, 2007 at 03:53 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
I still think sealed would be best for you. Make sure you stuff the box as well. It will give you tight dry bass without all the exaggerated (at peak freq) or muddy (off peak freq) sound of a ported. If you don't want it as dry, slightly smaller box, less stuffing, or no stuffing. But I'm telling you, extremely tight dry precise bass will give you perfect audio. It won't be 'boomy' but that is not precise sound. Plus it really doesn't sound that good with anything but rap. Listen to a bass test CD. If you can clearly and distinctly hear all the individual beats in the response test and the subs put out sounds the whole way through the freq test, you are golden. Ported (and that includes band pass) will fail both these test.
Now if you are building two different boxes, one port tuned for low (30~50hz) and the other sealed and set for mid (100~400hz) it would be OK. 12" and 8" or 15" and 10" are good combos if you want to go this route.
wait what? i think your and me are sorta on the same track (damn i wish i didnt change my sig) your recommending a big sub ported with a smaller sub sealed? Interesting enough my plans for midbass is actually an 8" sub and i will be running it sealed in the doors
I personally would go with the dd. I have had really good results with them in both sealed and ported. I mostly used them in SPL applications and won two world records and was a former record holder in my class. I had two 9910 dd's burping 46hz at 153.5db on the new audiocontrol sensor. I know you are wanting to do a SQ setup and not SPL but if you want a little of both you can try to build a small SPL box (ported) to be loud and plug the port for a better freq. range. Just an idea. Im working on something in my balt right now for a SPL and SQ setup. Im just going to switch between two amps one on the factory sub box small amp and one on my spl box powered by the new dd z1 amp :-)
I have 7 mmats juganaut 15"'s for sale if anyone interested. There comparable to the dd's.
Your doing good by gatherening info just keep researching and with a little trial & error you will get it were you want.
pics of mmats subs in here some where http://s125.photobucket.com/albums/p46/tim0shel/
asking 225 each
I have 7 mmats juganaut 15"'s for sale if anyone interested. There comparable to the dd's.
Your doing good by gatherening info just keep researching and with a little trial & error you will get it were you want.
pics of mmats subs in here some where http://s125.photobucket.com/albums/p46/tim0shel/
asking 225 each
Just to show my age, those 10"s I was talking about earlier where in a mixed array with to 15" subs. M&M Godfather 15"s in a ported box and M&M Crystalclear 10"s in a sealed. Hell, does anyone else even remember M&M Audio?
im still debating... i really want DD for its sq/spl qualities but i sorta got the feeling the Q might be better in terms of SQ plus im still sorta a noob to DD and the options on their woofers whereas fi has everything laid out a lil easier
plus i know the fs on the q is 25.#
plus i know the fs on the q is 25.#
Last edited by EmperorJJ1; May 19, 2007 at 03:29 AM.


