Saab part pulling
So I just pulled a turbo from a 99 Saab 9-3. I know I've heard a ton of people say go for a larger turbo because its not worth it but from the stats I've been seeing it'll push me over 200 while staying right in the comfy range where I shouldn't need to rebuild my engine :)
I only pulled the turbo due to time and frustration but everything else is still there as well. My question is what else should I get off that 9-3 to go with the turbo? I've heard exhaust manifold but what else would you guys recommend? Also on a dumb note: will the turbo from a 99 Saab 9-3 even work? The age worried me but I jumped on it anyways.... Thanks for any help! |
Forgot to mention my car is a 2010 cobalt Lt with the lap 2.2
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Big question is does it have SAI, if you don't modify it to work you'll have a massive exhaust leak like I am having now.
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im curious as to what everyone is doing about the wastegate actuator that is running this turbo
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What do you mean, isn't it a built in with canister?
Turbo outlet, to boost controller to top of the WG canister. That's really all it is. |
Originally Posted by andrewcarr1993
(Post 7403818)
What do you mean, isn't it a built in with canister?
Turbo outlet, to boost controller to top of the WG canister. That's really all it is. |
Yeah I had that too, on my EFR 6758, just unscrewed it and put it in a box. Then hooked it up as I said.
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Originally Posted by andrewcarr1993
(Post 7403821)
Yeah I had that too, on my EFR 6758, just unscrewed it and put it in a box. Then hooked it up as I said.
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heres another question you might be able to answer, blow through or pull through on the MAF setup? I was debating which way to go on that as well, ZZP sells a recirculating bypass valve as well. Looking into how to deal with pegging the MAF on a blow through setup.
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Yeah, it's not like you'll have any boost leak from removing it, you'll just have open bolt holes.
I have a pull through setup, only problem is I probably will need to wire in an LSJ MAP at some point so I have the real intake air temps. |
Originally Posted by andrewcarr1993
(Post 7403826)
Yeah, it's not like you'll have any boost leak from removing it, you'll just have open bolt holes.
I have a pull through setup, only problem is I probably will need to wire in an LSJ MAP at some point so I have the real intake air temps. |
Really? Then I wouldn't have to rewire anything.
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Originally Posted by andrewcarr1993
(Post 7403833)
Really? Then I wouldn't have to rewire anything.
On my boosted b series I would see fluctuations from 12:1 in the summer at WOT on 8psi to almost 13.5:1 in the dead of the winter with no tune changes using the IAT in the manifold. Vice versa for winter to summer, I would tune the car for 12:1 in the winter and wind up being 10.5:1 in the dead of the summer. It wasnt until I put the IAT in the intake charge pipe that I was actually able to stabilize the afr swing to about .5 from winter to summer. Tuning IAT compensation tables isnt fun nor easy either lol having to take the car out and dial in the IAT multiplier every time it hits a certain temperature. |
Thanks for the information.
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Originally Posted by andrewcarr1993
(Post 7403851)
Thanks for the information.
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Might as well close this thread because the 9-3's with parts that are swappable are 2003+
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Originally Posted by Pitbull2o08
(Post 7403859)
Might as well close this thread because the 9-3's with parts that are swappable are 2003+
On an off note what would the general consensus be for using a t25 turbo with a lower HP build? I'm shooting for 230-250 whp to have a bit of back roads fun while keeping reliability. I heard it will give a ton of torque in the low end but not so much in the high end, but would it really be that bad up high? I just did a 2.4 TB and IM swap on my 2.2 so I can't imagine to much being as bad as the stock 2.2 high end. |
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