Ltguy

iTrader: (9)

So I don't know if anyone else has this but it doesn't matter if I'm granny driving or getting on it, about once or twice every time out driving I have an issue going from 2-3... Like it hits right between 1 and 3 and I have to pull back then ease it into 3rd... Would solid bushings fix this? Or a sts? It's just kind of annoying.....

gotboost?17

iTrader: (46)

u can play witht the shift linkage on the 2 and mabey even it out, u dont wanna hit 1st ill tell u that lol

HyperFocus

iTrader: (1)

yeah, itd be damn near impossible to hit 1st though cause there is so much resistance .

574

iTrader: (5)

from 2nd i can push it into 3rd with my palm and it goes in like butta. try adjusting it

gotboost?17

iTrader: (46)

not here, ive banged 1st

Ltguy

iTrader: (9)

Ill give tightening it up a bit a try this week, thanks

HyperFocus

iTrader: (1)

Hmm thats weird. 1st will barely let me in when im goin 10 mph haha.

Not really sure what you could do OP other than adjust the cables like they said. I have the bushings and Id say they are better than the stock ones, but I didnt notice a huge difference honestly. As far as the STS shifter goes, I have no clue cause im still on the stocker. Hope you get it resolved though man.

rukkee

iTrader: (3)

Better be careful about getting the shifter stuck between 1st and 3rd....... I went to slam 3rd one day and mine stuck right in between 1st and 3rd ....... ended up bending the metal end of the shift cable . It broke on me about 8 months later . Replacing the cable wasnt much fun lol

BilletProShop

As other members stated, the first thing to do would be to adjust your cables. Can you get into the 5th and reverse easily?

J

Powell Race Parts

iTrader: (3)

In my experience, rushing the shift can cause that. If you had an SC , upgrading the shift cable bracket on the transmission to the LNF would help, but you have an LNF. You probably should check all parts of the shift mechanism. Some folks actually bend the shift cables, they are stainless steel its hard to do, but I have seen it. The STS dont have provision for locking the shift lever into an adjustment slot in the housing, so its more difficult to adjust the shift cables properly with an STS.

Base bushings can help. Stabilizes the entire housing. Roll pins in the trans shift levers can break and can cause this, if you have an LNF the roll pins are upgraded from the factory and its unlikely to be that. Cable clamps either work or dont, the upgrade offered by the STS folks is overkill but eliminates the likelihood of the clamp breaking.

Start at the beginning and check everything.

Lastly, a driver mod will help, once a driver adjusts to the fact that this shifter doesnt really want you to rush the 2-3 shift, or any shift for that matter, and the trans sure wont last long if you rush the shifts a lot. Good luck.

Ltguy

iTrader: (9)

Yup, 5 and rev are smooth

This makes sense John thanks. I had to driver mod in my old Camaro cuz I would occasionally bind the manual linkage on the Muncie when really beating on it. You guys don't carry solid shifter bushings do you?

Ltguy

iTrader: (9)

Also, so say I driver mod and I take like a full second to shift as opposed to a split second... When using NLS and bouncing off the revlimiter how much or how much more damage will that do if any? I just want to be prepared so I'm not tearing **** up at the track this summer.

Thanks!

HyperFocus

iTrader: (1)

How fast is too fast? Seems like most of what I read on here encourages faster shifting. And im not just talking about NLS

Powell Race Parts

iTrader: (3)

we do. 30 bux. cheers

Ltguy

iTrader: (9)

Damn you John lol one more thing I have to order from you now haha

Powell Race Parts

iTrader: (3)

1320 you are on your own. auto is best.
road racing, take your time; you can only really shift as fast as the rev drop permits.
then consider autox. One shift for most courses...

here is a gear chart. using 6500 as a shift point ( by the time you actually move the lever if you wait until 6500 you will probably rev higher) see the drop off to the next gear. Whatever time it takes for the engine to drop revs is the actual shift time in an ideal situation, to reduce synchro wear and the risk of a missed shift. Missed shifts cost so much in time, you really have to take care to get it right.



As the speed of the car increases, then the ratio's are made closer together, so in actual fact the time required for engine rev drop is less. But drag increases with speed. Risk of a missed shift remains..

As a rule, follow the axiom "get out of first as soon as possible". this may put you below the torque peak, but gives you more accelleration using second gear. In actual fact, the time spent in first is so short, and wheel spin so much, that running to the top of revs in first really doesnt work well.

The 2-3 shift is the issue for the OP. Here you have run across the gate. To do that, you must be careful not to try and diagonally force the shifter, it doesnt want to do that. Take the time to move to neutral across the gate and up to third. If you dont, if you try to diagonally force it , you will either hit fifth or a bunch of nothings...
so: good shifter bushings/stable housing, good cables (not crimped by the rear engine mount in routing) good cable clamps, good roll pins and a stable cable to trans bracket ( LNF solid) . To get really fancy, on an LSJ use the shorter LNF shift arm on the trans, and maybe cut the bob weight of it if you are totally dedicated to 1320.
my .02 c.

BilletProShop

What Powell said 120%

Adding on, a good rule of thumb is also to remember a FAST shift doesn't necessarily mean it has to be a HARD shift.

HyperFocus

iTrader: (1)

Thats basically what I was trying to ask..if a shift that is fast but done correctly and gently damages the car any.