SChassisMostly

I am about to embark on changing the clutch on my 09 LNF. I just finished up with my Trifecta tune about a month ago and went to pull out of my dentist's office when I felt the clutch slip in WOT in 2nd. I knew this was coming so I saved up to buy everything needed. This will be my 4th clutch done and my 1st in the Cobalt so I feel like I know what's going to happen. Anything else anyone can think of that I may need or advise? I read these clutches suck to bleed properly.

OTTP Stage 2 Clutch
LUK Flywheel
ARP Flywheel bolts
Clutch elbow
Clutch pipe
2 quarts AC Delco 19351859 Gear Oil
Rear Main seal

Bought a torx socket and bit set along with an engine support stand.

royce777

iTrader: (29)

ive done a full motor swap, 5 tranny swaps, and a few ecotec clutches. honestly not that hard. if your engine cradle has been out before it wont be as bad. I had a few times where the main engine cradle bolts seize in the cage nut. I recommend kroil. take your time and don't rust. I got good enough I could do a tranny swap in 3 hours by my self with no lift or power tools.

royce777

iTrader: (29)

also I don't think those flywheel bolts will work. I've heard the heads are too big. I recommend getting OEM ones.


also might want to get a the three bolts that hold the TOB. they tend to be a pain and strip out easily.

SChassisMostly

Okay good to know. I recently replaced the control arm bushings with spherical ones so I know those large bolts should come out no problem. The other ones may be a different story.

royce777

iTrader: (29)

usually its the rear two that suck to get out

SChassisMostly

Would you happen to know the size of the TOB bolts? I might just go to a nut and bolt shop and get some allen ones instead.

royce777

iTrader: (29)

Unfortunately, I do not. but hopefully someone will chime in. You may get lucky and be okay but depending on your time line I would hate to see you stuck on a weekend and have no access to bolts.

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

Those flywheel bolts have always worked for me, but ive never done an f35 clutch. They are for an Opel/vauxhall 2.0 and they have thin heads compared to what people had problems with using.

SChassisMostly

I'll do some research on it. I appreciate your input. I have my Integra to drive around so I'll be okay if i don't finish in one weekend.

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

If you have a 1/2" air impact or a decent electric one i HIGHLY recommend using it on the subframe bolts. I have had terrible luck using a breaker bar but the impact seems to take them out without ruining the cage nut.

SChassisMostly

I hope they work. I got them since they are reusable and actually cheaper than the stock bolts.

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

I use them for the same reason, but unfortunately i dont have much experience with the f35 transmission/SS cars in general.

jdbaugh1

iTrader: (1)

Seriously? Take the old one out and install the new one all in 3 hours? That's very impressive. I think I can take one out in about 6 hours and about the same for the install. Do you leave the drivers side strut and knuckle on?

royce777

iTrader: (29)

I leave the struts but disconnect the knuckle and lower it. I found thats the easiest way so the knuckle isnt in the way.

cw383

iTrader: (6)

3 hours is god status.

63 Nova SS

iTrader: (3)

Hell I bet it took me an hour to stab the trans in. Can only hold it up there so long at a time.

jdbaugh1

iTrader: (1)

I've spent over an hour just trying to pop loose a stubborn axle.

SChassisMostly

This has given me some good insight. I start on Saturday so I know I'll be busy all weekend.

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

Pry from behind it and hit the inner joint with a hammer. Sounds crazy but it pops the clip after a few hits.

jdbaugh1

iTrader: (1)

That makes sense. That clip can get jammed up and it needs some sort of jarring action to shift to a point where it will compress.

SChassisMostly

Any tips on doing a rear main seal? Thought I would do it while I was back there. This issue is all the one's I've done have some sort of housing around it you can unbolt to take it off. This one looks like it is completely pressed in.

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

unless it's leaking don't touch it.

SChassisMostly

Well on Saturday I was able to pull the tranny in about 4 hours. I ran into the issue with stripping out 2 of the 3 torx bolts on the TOB but I got them out today. Just to let everyone know, those ARP 209-2801 bolts will work. Got the new clutch in and will need a buddy to get it back in. Hopefully next Saturday I'll have it done.