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Drivetrain: How To: Clutch Job on Cobalt SS

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Old Feb 28, 2012 | 01:50 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by ItalianJoe1
Are you guys doing the vac bleeder process correctly? I bleed all my clutches like that and they come out perfect with no drama. It takes 3-4 cycles as per the instructions, first couple times it feels like nothing changed, then all of a sudden you will have a nice normal pedal with no mess. I set it up while i'm putting back the final parts and let it bleed while i'm working, then go drive the car. Easy as pie.
It may have worked, it was getting late, I think we just wanted to get it done. This method seemed to work just fine too, haven't heard him say anything negative about the pedal.

Originally Posted by bamaboy22
who was wearing gloves?
Pretty sure my hands are in most the pictures, so I'm guessing me lol.
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Old Feb 28, 2012 | 02:15 PM
  #27  
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Subd
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Old Feb 28, 2012 | 04:38 PM
  #28  
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Don't make me say it!
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Old Feb 28, 2012 | 05:03 PM
  #29  
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Don't make you say what?

For the person who asked, this is the vacuum kit I purchased...

Mityvac Vacuum Pump - Save on Mityvac Pumps at Harbor Freight!
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Old Mar 1, 2012 | 12:10 AM
  #30  
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Ugg. I'm too busy to do this myself. I guess I'm gonna have to find someone in the NoVA area, unless I can magically deglaze my clutch.
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Old Mar 7, 2012 | 05:36 PM
  #31  
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Found this for those looking to save some moola.

clutch bleeding from the mc (or the j-43485 mityvac adapter) - Corvette Forum

This is what I plan on using, though. Why not, for $75?

Last edited by SSlobalt; Mar 7, 2012 at 05:44 PM.
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Old Mar 9, 2012 | 05:28 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by SSlobalt
Found this for those looking to save some moola.

clutch bleeding from the mc (or the j-43485 mityvac adapter) - Corvette Forum

This is what I plan on using, though. Why not, for $75?
The one I linked to from Harbor Freight comes with the little plunger thingy you put in the resovuir to create the seal.

I did see on someone's YouTube video that there exists a kit that uses your spare tire as a pressure source and just pushes the fluid out until there are no more bubbles. Looked pretty neat. I think it was called EZ Bleed or something.
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Old Mar 9, 2012 | 06:29 AM
  #33  
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I used the bottle on the ground method. Hook a rubber hose to the bleeder and place it in a half full bottle of brake fluid sitting on the ground under the car. Pump the clutch pedal a couple times and open and close the bleeder nut. Check the fluid level. Repeat as needed. Took me about 4 cycles to bleed my stage 3
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Old Mar 9, 2012 | 07:05 AM
  #34  
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^^^ I agree with Mongorat.
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Old Mar 9, 2012 | 07:08 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Wangspeed
Ugg. I'm too busy to do this myself. I guess I'm gonna have to find someone in the NoVA area, unless I can magically deglaze my clutch.
Lots of downshifting. The clutch will slip a different way on the flywheel so it unglaze it faster.
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Old Mar 9, 2012 | 10:34 AM
  #36  
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Gravity and force bleeding is fine if you4sing the old slave Tob.... If you don't have fluid in the line that goes.down to the Tob, it'll be a Bitch getting those air bubbles out just by gravity or force bleeding. Which is why vacuum is best. (Per gm)
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Old Mar 18, 2012 | 08:45 PM
  #37  
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awesome write up...sooo flippin involved though..it looks like its worth the 900 the dealer wants to do it...
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Old Mar 18, 2012 | 10:33 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by AARON-SS-TC
awesome write up...sooo flippin involved though..it looks like its worth the 900 the dealer wants to do it...
Not worth that much, but I won't do them for less than $350, because it is a pain in the ass.
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Old Mar 18, 2012 | 11:29 PM
  #39  
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Def not worth letting the dealer do it. Once you do it you'll realize you could do it again in half the time. It's really not that bad, just a lot to do and time consuming. It's not mentally challenging more physical.
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 05:24 AM
  #40  
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Bump BC the other guides don't have any pictures!!!

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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 08:06 AM
  #41  
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This is diff gonna come in handy! Cheers man
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 08:20 PM
  #42  
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I knew you were from Canada just by reading ure post... Lol.
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Old Apr 22, 2012 | 01:39 PM
  #43  
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where did you buy your flywheel from?
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Old Apr 22, 2012 | 05:01 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Dan-o
where did you buy your flywheel from?
I believe he got it from CED.
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Old Apr 23, 2012 | 10:19 PM
  #45  
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I actually got it from Mongorat. PM him as he usually has something.
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Old Apr 23, 2012 | 10:34 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Frogstofall
I actually got it from Mongorat. PM him as he usually has something.
mongorat be good for this for sure
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Old Apr 23, 2012 | 10:35 PM
  #47  
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From: Port Perry
Originally Posted by ItalianJoe1
Not worth that much, but I won't do them for less than $350, because it is a pain in the ass.
turbos are a walk in the park compared to lsj....stop ur whining.
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Old Apr 28, 2012 | 08:30 PM
  #48  
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ok thx has anyone ordered a LNF flywheel from zzp i see they are selling them for 150 and CED is like 750 big price difference starting to wonder if its a typo
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Old Apr 29, 2012 | 12:53 AM
  #49  
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There's no way to remove the tranny with the engine brace still in place?
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Old Apr 29, 2012 | 12:57 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Dan-o
ok thx has anyone ordered a LNF flywheel from zzp i see they are selling them for 150 and CED is like 750 big price difference starting to wonder if its a typo
Naw, they are pretty pricey from GM. Ever looked up how much an LNF wheel costs brand new? It's insane.

Originally Posted by chris88z24
There's no way to remove the tranny with the engine brace still in place?
James says he can do it with only lowering one side. Maybe he'll chime in.
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