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Drivetrain: HOW TO Fix Linkage Roll Pin on Transmission

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Drivetrain: HOW TO Fix Linkage Roll Pin on Transmission

Old 07-17-2011, 11:38 AM
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what is the temporary fix until i get get all the things needed to fix it
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Old 07-23-2011, 02:52 PM
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Im sorry, but is the pin size 3/8 or 3/16..............I have seen several people say one or the other.

Please clarify!

Edit: No one cared so I did it with the 3/16 going on a hunch that 3/8 was a BIT too large. Worked great. The size is 3/16 x 1. One was split in two and the other was stretched.

DO THIS REPAIR. Even if you think its okay....it probably isnt. This is not a hard repair, just tedious with all the **** you have to pull out of the way.

Last edited by bonylad; 07-29-2011 at 10:43 AM.
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Old 02-25-2012, 08:29 AM
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I dug up my old notes, and I had bookmarked a set of special pins in case I needed them. Just to keep this as future reference:

McMaster has a set of 420 Stainless Steel extra strength coiled roll pins , that are 3/16" diameter and 1" long, with a double shear strength of 4,500 lb and a Rockwell Hardness of C46. The part is McMaster Car 95765A417 for a pack of 10.

Note that I have not tried these pins myself, but I found them based on the dimensions of the replacement pins. I wanted something that is more durable than regular steel roll pins.
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Old 04-11-2012, 12:38 PM
  #204  
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THIS IS THE GREATEST THREAD I'VE FOUND, I have 144,500 **** kicking, power shifting miles on my 06 ss and ive been going crazy trying to figure out my slop in the shifter. then i had trouble slammin second and first was a bitch. now i know why and what to do. thanks brotha for the good info. =DD
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Old 04-17-2012, 12:54 AM
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Originally Posted by SS1 View Post
THIS IS THE GREATEST THREAD I'VE FOUND, I have 144,500 **** kicking, power shifting miles on my 06 ss and ive been going crazy trying to figure out my slop in the shifter. then i had trouble slammin second and first was a bitch. now i know why and what to do. thanks brotha for the good info. =DD
Oh wow! I've been driving my car for 1 year with this problem (2nd,4th, and Rev). Even after a warranty fix ($968-thank you warranty) that replaced the problematic shift fork, 2nd/Rev is easier to slide into but 4th still pops out (I just skip it). If I would have saw this then, it would have saved me soooooo much gas money. Ill try this fix Saturday and repost the end results. Wish me luck.... Btw the warranty company had the tranny broken down and rebuilt only to tell me the problem was not in the tranny, but it was external and I was on my on lol.

Last edited by legored2k5; 04-17-2012 at 12:58 AM. Reason: More infor
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Old 05-17-2012, 11:31 PM
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So my 2nd, 4th and Rev were all grinding and popping out. Took it in, was told they adjusted the shift linkage.

Then 1st 3rd and 5th started to grind. Well today out of the blue when I was driving I cannot get into 1st 3rd and 5th at all.

I decided to learn how to adjust my shift linkage myself but neither tightening or loosening helped.

Is this likely my roll pin???? :S

Last edited by cranemaster; 05-17-2012 at 11:42 PM.
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Old 05-17-2012, 11:34 PM
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Hey I made a tool to help push the roll pin in. Ill post up some pics when I get home tomorrow. Its real helpful in that tight space! Perhaps the mods can edit it into the OP.
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Old 05-21-2012, 03:01 PM
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Shifter has been sloppy for a month or so and now I lost all gears... Going to do this tonight.
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Old 05-22-2012, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by cranemaster View Post
So my 2nd, 4th and Rev were all grinding and popping out. Took it in, was told they adjusted the shift linkage.

Then 1st 3rd and 5th started to grind. Well today out of the blue when I was driving I cannot get into 1st 3rd and 5th at all.

I decided to learn how to adjust my shift linkage myself but neither tightening or loosening helped.

Is this likely my roll pin???? :S
If you just lose a set of gears, its usually the linkage its on.
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Old 05-22-2012, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Gelladuga69 View Post
If you just lose a set of gears, its usually the linkage its on.
this, if you break a roll pin you will not have any gears most of the time
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Old 05-22-2012, 12:09 PM
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When mine went I could not go into 2nd, 4th, and reverse in the beginning... Then I could not get into any of them.

I found a 1"x3/16" from NAPA and had them get me one that'll fit inside to double it up for now until I get the heavy duty ones. I have to file the ends down a little and make the pin a smaller diameter but it should make it stronger than if I were to have one.

Edit: Nevermind, I ordered the upgraded ones from McMaster yesterday afternoon and they are already out for delivery today. I will be replacing mine with those.

Last edited by SCcobaltSS; 05-22-2012 at 01:43 PM.
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Old 05-22-2012, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by SCcobaltSS View Post
When mine went I could not go into 2nd, 4th, and reverse in the beginning... Then I could not get into any of them.

I found a 1"x3/16" from NAPA and had them get me one that'll fit inside to double it up for now until I get the heavy duty ones. I have to file the ends down a little and make the pin a smaller diameter but it should make it stronger than if I were to have one.

Edit: Nevermind, I ordered the upgraded ones from McMaster yesterday afternoon and they are already out for delivery today. I will be replacing mine with those.
Heavy duty ones? Link?
I'm just using the one I got from NAPA for free, which is the 1" x 3/16".
I would like to have a couple on hand if this ever happens again, but my first one has been on for 6 years..
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Old 05-22-2012, 03:44 PM
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Info is in post #203 above but:

McMaster-Carr

then find part # 95765A417

Pack of 10, breaking strength 4500 lbs

Edit:



Just arrived today, upgrade on left.

Last edited by SCcobaltSS; 05-22-2012 at 08:49 PM.
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Old 05-23-2012, 12:34 PM
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After pulling the stock one out it looks like it is the upgraded one. The one from NAPA look cheap compared to the stock.

And I have no idea how you only took 30 minutes, I could not fit the pin pusher in the engine bay and it go exactly straight to push the pin out let alone try to get a hammer to tap it out.
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Old 05-23-2012, 02:12 PM
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^^ I agree, its a pita job. CED have upgraded roll pins. I have a few racing ones left,
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Old 05-23-2012, 02:22 PM
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I basically had to use the pin tool with me pushing with my hands to get the broken one out of the shaft and tap the two out with the pin pusher tool when I pulled the female piece off. Then I had to push the new pin in with my hands as much as possible and then use my channel locks around the female piece that connects to the linkage. I couldnt fit the pin tool when reinstalling the pin.
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Old 05-23-2012, 02:42 PM
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It's easier when the pin is broken, lol. Since it's already hanging out in pieces.
You have "two" fresh ones in there.

I didn't even use a push pin to put mine in though. Was able to do it with a mallet.

Thanks for the info on the upgraded pins, gonna order them and a roll pin pusher today after work.

Those pins from CED are expensive.. You can tell they're heavy duty though from the pic.

Last edited by Gelladuga69; 05-23-2012 at 02:48 PM.
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Old 07-14-2012, 04:14 AM
  #218  
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I have a lot of slop in my '07 SC shifter, I have to depress the clutch, wait 1 full second, then pull 2nd in order to not grind. WOT or not, if I shift without waiting I grind. This, in addition to major shifter slop, is prompting me to check my roll pins tomorrow.

I hope this fixes the grinding 2nd, not counting on it since I assume that is synchro related, but we'll see. This trans is a rebuilt trans, and didn't do it for the first few months, then it started. engaging 2nd with trans #2 requires the same technique I had to do wih the original trans, 2nd needed a full 1 second delay. with only 10k miles on a rebuilt trans, I'm assuming the sliop AND the grinding are roll pin related ::crosses fingers::

I will look into my roll pin tomorrow, thanks for the info! as for the "bolt being too strong" debate... i think it's a great idea to beef it up. if something has to "give" why does the roll pin have to be the weakest link? Why not let your right arm be the weakest link?!

shift easier into the gears, don't yank every gear. pull with a smooth yet forgiving force, just don't try to WHAM it into gear. that extra few 100ths of a second you slow down your shifting will save your trans and synchros. if you lose the race because of this... make your car faster
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Old 07-14-2012, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Turbo Johnny View Post
I have a lot of slop in my '07 SC shifter, I have to depress the clutch, wait 1 full second, then pull 2nd in order to not grind. WOT or not, if I shift without waiting I grind. This, in addition to major shifter slop, is prompting me to check my roll pins tomorrow.

I hope this fixes the grinding 2nd, not counting on it since I assume that is synchro related, but we'll see. This trans is a rebuilt trans, and didn't do it for the first few months, then it started. engaging 2nd with trans #2 requires the same technique I had to do wih the original trans, 2nd needed a full 1 second delay. with only 10k miles on a rebuilt trans, I'm assuming the sliop AND the grinding are roll pin related ::crosses fingers::

I will look into my roll pin tomorrow, thanks for the info! as for the "bolt being too strong" debate... i think it's a great idea to beef it up. if something has to "give" why does the roll pin have to be the weakest link? Why not let your right arm be the weakest link?!

shift easier into the gears, don't yank every gear. pull with a smooth yet forgiving force, just don't try to WHAM it into gear. that extra few 100ths of a second you slow down your shifting will save your trans and synchros. if you lose the race because of this... make your car faster
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Old 07-14-2012, 05:29 PM
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SCobaltSS: How are the McMaster pins working for you? I found those awhile ago and felt they'd be the way to go if I ever had to replace the stock roll pins.

Did I read your post correctly saying that GM's factory pins are the similar rolled design as the ones from McMaster?
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Old 07-14-2012, 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by metroplex View Post
SCobaltSS: How are the McMaster pins working for you? I found those awhile ago and felt they'd be the way to go if I ever had to replace the stock roll pins.

Did I read your post correctly saying that GM's factory pins are the similar rolled design as the ones from McMaster?
I have those and they've been holding up. Really sturdy.
GM factory ones are pretty similar. They're both coiled.
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Old 07-16-2012, 10:19 PM
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Subd i need to do this, this weekend my shifting is very loose i feel it may be the roll.pin
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Old 07-31-2012, 05:22 PM
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If you can get most of the pin out, enough to tap in a new COILED PIN, I found a pretty easy way of getting a new one in.

You basically have to move the fork so the pin is facing the front of the car. Take a flat head screw driver, wedge it between the pin and the mount. Once wedged, push forward on the screw driver and it'll give you enough force to push the pin in, instead of trying to struggle with space on a tap, or having to remove the mount to do so.
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Old 07-31-2012, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Lifter View Post
If you can get most of the pin out, enough to tap in a new COILED PIN, I found a pretty easy way of getting a new one in.

You basically have to move the fork so the pin is facing the front of the car. Take a flat head screw driver, wedge it between the pin and the mount. Once wedged, push forward on the screw driver and it'll give you enough force to push the pin in, instead of trying to struggle with space on a tap, or having to remove the mount to do so.
I think it was 5th gear that made the fork face the front.
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Old 07-31-2012, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Gelladuga69 View Post
I have those and they've been holding up. Really sturdy.
GM factory ones are pretty similar. They're both coiled.
fyi GM factory pins are not multi coil. BTW changing roll pins in the car is a pita. I mean a real pita. Drop the drivers side mount the rear mount, remove the shifter cable bracket, go in through the drivers side fender well, its awful to get the roll pin punch in there, and if the pin is in hard it can take hours to get it out as you cant swing the hammer , too much in the way.I would almost say take the trans out or drop the cradle to make it easier. But if the roll pin is broken and its an LSJ car, it comes out easy. LNF are a beatch.

Last edited by Powell Race Parts; 07-31-2012 at 07:54 PM.
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