2.0 LSJ Engine: How To: Gen 3/Gen 2 no sleeves in LSJ block
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Junior Member
Joined: 06-21-06
Posts: 431
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From: NM
How To: Gen 3/Gen 2 no sleeves in LSJ block
This HOW TO is for those that want to know exactly what will need to be done to change their LSJ Gen 1 block to a Gen 2.2 no sleeve/Gen 3.
This is NOT a Detailed build guide, just a guide on issues I encountered with my LDK short block. The purpose is for other LSJ owners to have a better understanding on what all is involved when going this route.
LSJ's are now almost 10 years old. And many guys have found the limit. Cracked sleeves seem to be the major culprit, so what better to do then swap your outdated block with a newer updated Generation 2 no sleeve block/Gen 2.2 or as ZZP calls it the Gen 3 block.
I have plans for roadcoursing my car. I like the idea of sleeves but b/c of cooling issues after install, it was only sensible to go with a stronger newer and better cooling block.
And its actually not all that difficult if you have:
A. Experience with engine dis-assembly and assembly
B. Some drill bits/taps/grinder/JBweld
The reluctor ring on the LSJ crank will need to match the new Gen2.2 crank sensor location which wont happen unless, Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I think you need to grab a new Gen2/3 reluctor ring. the wiring for the oil pressure sensor might need to be extended. Unsure about both of these mods as I had Mongo do my Short block and I have an aftermarket Oil pressure sendor
DISCLAIMER:
***I am not responsible if you screw up yourself or engine by following these directions****
I will start with the short block.
Sand cast to rid all porisity in the block.
The 2 red arrows point to holes that will need to be drilled out and retapped to fit the larger LSJ bolts.
Foam cast Gen 1 block, Swap over all bolts into your Gen 3 block as well as the knock sensor.
Cylinder wall bracing galore and Look Ma no sleeves.
Now you can see the supportless block naked no wonder this block cant take a beating at 450hp very long Tisk Tisk, also notice the cooling passages are slightly narrow compared to the Gen2.2
If you have required a new oil cooler then you can skip this modification, but I used my existing cooler, so drilling and tapping was required.
You can see the ports match up nicely but 1 bolt however does not. If you look inside the filter housing you can see there is some material to work with so dont be afraid of drilling through the block at this point, you will only need to drill in slightly less then 3/4 inch to make room for the tap. The bolt is only in bout a half inch
End result, fit was slightly off but a small bit of filing took care of that.
GOOD JOB!
At this point You can put on the Head, Intake, Exhaust, drink a brew and timing components,
So this hole wasnt in my other block??? Well only one solution JB Weld
A bolt bin is for a reason, perfect fit, JB weld/chastity that hole, nothing out nothing in.
The passenger side mount above the timing cover wont fit, grab a grinder/file/not a belt sander
File it till its something like this.
Go ahead and drop car on engine
Now after getting everything back together, fluids in the car, make sure you have some good break in oil, and keep the injectors unplugged and crank away, until you get pressure/ oil light goes off. If you swapped to a new oil cooler or cleaned out your old one (dont fret your pants like I did) you will crank for like 15-20 secs before getting pressure, it has to refill the oil cooler before making it to the sensor.
So then go on break the car in, i'm breaking in my clutch so im doing mine to 500miles, but ZZP states after rings are broke in go ahead and start adding power, oil change at 200miles. I cant think of anything else. Cheers, have fun!
This is NOT a Detailed build guide, just a guide on issues I encountered with my LDK short block. The purpose is for other LSJ owners to have a better understanding on what all is involved when going this route.
LSJ's are now almost 10 years old. And many guys have found the limit. Cracked sleeves seem to be the major culprit, so what better to do then swap your outdated block with a newer updated Generation 2 no sleeve block/Gen 2.2 or as ZZP calls it the Gen 3 block.
I have plans for roadcoursing my car. I like the idea of sleeves but b/c of cooling issues after install, it was only sensible to go with a stronger newer and better cooling block.
And its actually not all that difficult if you have:
A. Experience with engine dis-assembly and assembly
B. Some drill bits/taps/grinder/JBweld
The reluctor ring on the LSJ crank will need to match the new Gen2.2 crank sensor location which wont happen unless, Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I think you need to grab a new Gen2/3 reluctor ring. the wiring for the oil pressure sensor might need to be extended. Unsure about both of these mods as I had Mongo do my Short block and I have an aftermarket Oil pressure sendor
DISCLAIMER:
***I am not responsible if you screw up yourself or engine by following these directions****
I will start with the short block.
Sand cast to rid all porisity in the block.
The 2 red arrows point to holes that will need to be drilled out and retapped to fit the larger LSJ bolts.
Foam cast Gen 1 block, Swap over all bolts into your Gen 3 block as well as the knock sensor.
Cylinder wall bracing galore and Look Ma no sleeves.
Now you can see the supportless block naked no wonder this block cant take a beating at 450hp very long Tisk Tisk, also notice the cooling passages are slightly narrow compared to the Gen2.2
If you have required a new oil cooler then you can skip this modification, but I used my existing cooler, so drilling and tapping was required.
You can see the ports match up nicely but 1 bolt however does not. If you look inside the filter housing you can see there is some material to work with so dont be afraid of drilling through the block at this point, you will only need to drill in slightly less then 3/4 inch to make room for the tap. The bolt is only in bout a half inch
End result, fit was slightly off but a small bit of filing took care of that.
GOOD JOB!
At this point You can put on the Head, Intake, Exhaust, drink a brew and timing components,
So this hole wasnt in my other block??? Well only one solution JB Weld
A bolt bin is for a reason, perfect fit, JB weld/chastity that hole, nothing out nothing in.
The passenger side mount above the timing cover wont fit, grab a grinder/file/not a belt sander
File it till its something like this.
Go ahead and drop car on engine
Now after getting everything back together, fluids in the car, make sure you have some good break in oil, and keep the injectors unplugged and crank away, until you get pressure/ oil light goes off. If you swapped to a new oil cooler or cleaned out your old one (dont fret your pants like I did) you will crank for like 15-20 secs before getting pressure, it has to refill the oil cooler before making it to the sensor.
So then go on break the car in, i'm breaking in my clutch so im doing mine to 500miles, but ZZP states after rings are broke in go ahead and start adding power, oil change at 200miles. I cant think of anything else. Cheers, have fun!
Junior Member
Joined: 09-21-09
Posts: 407
Likes: 0
From: Arthurdale ,Wv
i no this thread is a little old but i have a few question if any one can help me i currently am doing a gen 3 swap in my lsj and i bought my short block off of mongo also my question is about the oil cooler none of the holes are in my block
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: 06-21-06
Posts: 431
Likes: 1
From: NM
You will need an aftermarket oil cooler I think Mongo will definelty know more about this then anyone. But jsut a forewarning, that too much cooling of the oil will do more harm then good per Mr John Powell himself. Which is quite possible if you dont plan on taking the car top speed or on a roadcourse. remember oil likes to be around 220-250 degrees for maximum protection especially when racing.
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