Appearance: How to shave trunk lid wing and lock holes
06-30-2012, 03:07 AM
#1
How to shave trunk lid wing and lock holes
First thing we did was remove all the stuff that needed to be worked on, entire trunk lid parts and the rear bumper. Wed did all this in about 30 minutes between the two of us.
Next we used his body working tools to create low spots we could fill with bondo and metal glaze (thin bondo). This is tapping the holes flat and lower to create a smooth finish later on with leveling and blocking.
From the local auto paint store I spent 570 bucks on goods. It was a bit over kill and didnt notice until I got home that I bought 100 dollars worth of sandpaper in various grits, 40, 80, 180, 220, and still needed 500 and 100 (walmart run 40 bucks later) and I picked up paint thinner for cleaning things up. This ran us about 600 bucks total for enough product to do a dozen cars. Going to sell it to my man to make up some of the cash. This also included a 107 dollar pint of YELLOW. geesh, expensive to have your wing holes and door lock actuators filled. We are going to use this also to fix other things not just the trunk. I talk about that in my "duck car thread".
Car on jackstands to get the bumper off, just easier to work this way.
Taped everything off from the back and preped the rear of the trunk lid for fiberglass fill putty.
Removed all emblems for a clean look, getting ready to fill the lock hole with fiberglass paste.
Hole filled from the back with fiberglass putty. Using tape on the front of the lock allows it to have a flat surface to adhere to. This picture is right after the tape is peeled off.
[/QUOTE]
GOODBYE KEY HOLE
The two shots of the sander is where it doesnt end. This key hole seemed to have mounds of primer and base coat in it. I used 40 grit sand paper and a file to scrape it all down to metal. Dont leave the yellow on it anywhere around there or it can chip, unlikely but it wont be as strong.
that is 40 grit to the left in our hands, scratch baby scratch.
Bondo build up, three layers to get the desired thickness, this is easy compared to the top of the trunk. Everything here is almost even.
So now, yup you guessed it more sanding. This is easy, keep running your hands over it inbetween sandings, 80 grit was used here as well as the top of the trunk to get it to the stage we are at here.
Here you can see the blue and pink colors sanded down. The pink is the bondo with pink hardner (pea sized hardner dose to about a dollop of bondo), the red hardner (pea sized to a dollop of metal glaze), then sanded and sanded and sanded and sanded. I did the left side of the trunk and my friend did the right side. His was smoother faster. Mine was eventually good enough, lol.
Now we switch it up with metal glaze (thin bondo product) and hit everything with blue hardner (the better of the two we used, found it later in the box of goods I bought). This stuff is where you get the good finish. Lots more sanding.
In this first pick you faintly see the OLD WING HOLES.
So I am learning at this point hours into this that sanding is everything and several coats of metal glaze really make the difference, but each time you remove almost all the bondo/metal glaze each time. Its not about mounding it up but just getting thousands of an inch coats to get high and low spots. I am getting the hang of this...
This is where the trunk is perfect, ready for primer/paint. Oh how good it feels to have that baby butt smooth as silk. this stage has the entire surface gone over with an Ingersol Rand 220 grit orbital sander. Hit all edges of repairs and work the entire trunk into the surface you see here. You can see how wavy our trunks are, even factory metal has high and low spots. This is the only way to get it perfect.
Hung the hood up in my driveway and wiped it down before primer. At this point we were at it from 445pm to 945 so bout 5 hours of prep work between two people, that included a quick break for dinner and occasional lollygagging with the wives. We didnt have a lot of time so we shot the trunk with primer and layed down about 4 coats. The entire bumper or trunk doesnt need shot. It will get hit with the yellow tomorrow and wet sanded inbetween coats. Then both the bumper and trunk will have clear coat sprayed. The entire bumper and trunk will have clear to bring it all together. I already love how smooth it looks without trunk holes!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Next we used his body working tools to create low spots we could fill with bondo and metal glaze (thin bondo). This is tapping the holes flat and lower to create a smooth finish later on with leveling and blocking.
From the local auto paint store I spent 570 bucks on goods. It was a bit over kill and didnt notice until I got home that I bought 100 dollars worth of sandpaper in various grits, 40, 80, 180, 220, and still needed 500 and 100 (walmart run 40 bucks later) and I picked up paint thinner for cleaning things up. This ran us about 600 bucks total for enough product to do a dozen cars. Going to sell it to my man to make up some of the cash. This also included a 107 dollar pint of YELLOW. geesh, expensive to have your wing holes and door lock actuators filled. We are going to use this also to fix other things not just the trunk. I talk about that in my "duck car thread".
Car on jackstands to get the bumper off, just easier to work this way.
Taped everything off from the back and preped the rear of the trunk lid for fiberglass fill putty.
Removed all emblems for a clean look, getting ready to fill the lock hole with fiberglass paste.
Hole filled from the back with fiberglass putty. Using tape on the front of the lock allows it to have a flat surface to adhere to. This picture is right after the tape is peeled off.
[/QUOTE]GOODBYE KEY HOLE
The two shots of the sander is where it doesnt end. This key hole seemed to have mounds of primer and base coat in it. I used 40 grit sand paper and a file to scrape it all down to metal. Dont leave the yellow on it anywhere around there or it can chip, unlikely but it wont be as strong.
that is 40 grit to the left in our hands, scratch baby scratch.
Bondo build up, three layers to get the desired thickness, this is easy compared to the top of the trunk. Everything here is almost even.
So now, yup you guessed it more sanding. This is easy, keep running your hands over it inbetween sandings, 80 grit was used here as well as the top of the trunk to get it to the stage we are at here.
Here you can see the blue and pink colors sanded down. The pink is the bondo with pink hardner (pea sized hardner dose to about a dollop of bondo), the red hardner (pea sized to a dollop of metal glaze), then sanded and sanded and sanded and sanded. I did the left side of the trunk and my friend did the right side. His was smoother faster. Mine was eventually good enough, lol.
Now we switch it up with metal glaze (thin bondo product) and hit everything with blue hardner (the better of the two we used, found it later in the box of goods I bought). This stuff is where you get the good finish. Lots more sanding.
In this first pick you faintly see the OLD WING HOLES.
So I am learning at this point hours into this that sanding is everything and several coats of metal glaze really make the difference, but each time you remove almost all the bondo/metal glaze each time. Its not about mounding it up but just getting thousands of an inch coats to get high and low spots. I am getting the hang of this...
This is where the trunk is perfect, ready for primer/paint. Oh how good it feels to have that baby butt smooth as silk. this stage has the entire surface gone over with an Ingersol Rand 220 grit orbital sander. Hit all edges of repairs and work the entire trunk into the surface you see here. You can see how wavy our trunks are, even factory metal has high and low spots. This is the only way to get it perfect.
Hung the hood up in my driveway and wiped it down before primer. At this point we were at it from 445pm to 945 so bout 5 hours of prep work between two people, that included a quick break for dinner and occasional lollygagging with the wives. We didnt have a lot of time so we shot the trunk with primer and layed down about 4 coats. The entire bumper or trunk doesnt need shot. It will get hit with the yellow tomorrow and wet sanded inbetween coats. Then both the bumper and trunk will have clear coat sprayed. The entire bumper and trunk will have clear to bring it all together. I already love how smooth it looks without trunk holes!!!!!!!!!!!!!
06-30-2012, 05:20 PM
#2
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Only thing I don't like is that the holes may not have enough support for the filler and that could end up cracking sometime down the road.
I say this as I am a bodyman, But I understand the fact about use what you have.
The thought has crossed my mind of shaving the truck lock cylinder and door handle lock cylinder, And putting some sort of remote mechanical release for the trunk in case my battery ever dies in the car or key. At the same time I would relocate the antenna to under the rear glass under the parcel tray and filling that hole too.
But as a bodyman the filler looks to be properly sanded and nicely flat. Good job.
Edit: I would recommend using a short strand fiberglass filler for at least the first layer of filler as that would be strong enough if you don't have access to a welder.
I had to fix a 1/4 panel in a early 90's civic but the whole wheel well was rusted out, as in no edge left or structure. (Go figure.). 2 coats for fiberglass filler and it still hasn't come back after a year of crappy Canadian winter weather.
I say this as I am a bodyman, But I understand the fact about use what you have.
The thought has crossed my mind of shaving the truck lock cylinder and door handle lock cylinder, And putting some sort of remote mechanical release for the trunk in case my battery ever dies in the car or key. At the same time I would relocate the antenna to under the rear glass under the parcel tray and filling that hole too.
But as a bodyman the filler looks to be properly sanded and nicely flat. Good job.
Edit: I would recommend using a short strand fiberglass filler for at least the first layer of filler as that would be strong enough if you don't have access to a welder.
I had to fix a 1/4 panel in a early 90's civic but the whole wheel well was rusted out, as in no edge left or structure. (Go figure.). 2 coats for fiberglass filler and it still hasn't come back after a year of crappy Canadian winter weather.
07-01-2012, 12:29 AM
#3
PHASE 2 Day 2 1pm to 5pm. 4 hours work between two people and sitting and waiting for coats to dry.
WET SAND, wet sand, wet sand. So I am learning about using 600 grit wet sand on the post primer sprayed body work. This is me sanding with the hose running to take away the left over primer so that we can keep the sandpaper de-gunked. TIP AND TRICK, use black cheap spray paint before you wet sand to see where you sanded and where you did not. This technique will save you headaches. Just remove the black paint and smooth edges for a perfect blend.
Make it so the lines between the primer and the existing paint is almost blended with 1000 grit. Then sand the entire bumper with 1000 grit to get a good scuff on the existing paint/clear. This will allow the new clear to adhere to the bring all the fixes together. kind of like a tie die shirt when the colors bleed together. No definitive lines.
After wetsanding both body panels we strung them up in my car port/driveway. Sanded small inperfections to perfection and left no lines.
This is the picture of the wing I took off. "Fast and furious and reject wing removal mod" is what I will call this one.
First coat of sealer (50 bucks a quart)
Second coat of sealer.
Third coat of sealer.
First coat of color. (107 bucks a pint)
Second coat of color.
Third, fourth, and fifth coat of color/blended with existing bumper. Full cover on trunk.
Clear coats one, two, and three. Clear is sprayed on the entire bumper and trunk lid. On the existing parts only the repair on the bumper was hit with color and blended, then clear is applied to all panels evenly.
Tomorrow I will reinstall the panels after they have had a 12 hr set time. Try and get pics up tomorrow if I can. Sundays are really busy for me.
So to sum up the work, you dont need to hit entire panels with body filler or primer, that just creates extra work. Get what you need dented a bit to lower it, fill it with bondo, smooth it again with metal glaze, sand to perfection with grits mentioned at each phase, primer only the areas needing paint, sand primer into existing body work with wet sanding, hit the fix areas with sealer blending out as you go along into existing body work, hit with color over needed areas blending as you go along into existing body work, hit entire area with 3 coats of clear to bring all of your hard work together and make the paint deep. 10 hours between a novice and a pro, most tools were provided by me the novice except the paint gun and body working hammers. So its very doable with time and patience. Thank you Arturo, you are an artist and a patient man my friend.
WET SAND, wet sand, wet sand. So I am learning about using 600 grit wet sand on the post primer sprayed body work. This is me sanding with the hose running to take away the left over primer so that we can keep the sandpaper de-gunked. TIP AND TRICK, use black cheap spray paint before you wet sand to see where you sanded and where you did not. This technique will save you headaches. Just remove the black paint and smooth edges for a perfect blend.
Make it so the lines between the primer and the existing paint is almost blended with 1000 grit. Then sand the entire bumper with 1000 grit to get a good scuff on the existing paint/clear. This will allow the new clear to adhere to the bring all the fixes together. kind of like a tie die shirt when the colors bleed together. No definitive lines.
After wetsanding both body panels we strung them up in my car port/driveway. Sanded small inperfections to perfection and left no lines.
This is the picture of the wing I took off. "Fast and furious and reject wing removal mod" is what I will call this one.
First coat of sealer (50 bucks a quart)
Second coat of sealer.
Third coat of sealer.
First coat of color. (107 bucks a pint)
Second coat of color.
Third, fourth, and fifth coat of color/blended with existing bumper. Full cover on trunk.
Clear coats one, two, and three. Clear is sprayed on the entire bumper and trunk lid. On the existing parts only the repair on the bumper was hit with color and blended, then clear is applied to all panels evenly.
Tomorrow I will reinstall the panels after they have had a 12 hr set time. Try and get pics up tomorrow if I can. Sundays are really busy for me.
So to sum up the work, you dont need to hit entire panels with body filler or primer, that just creates extra work. Get what you need dented a bit to lower it, fill it with bondo, smooth it again with metal glaze, sand to perfection with grits mentioned at each phase, primer only the areas needing paint, sand primer into existing body work with wet sanding, hit the fix areas with sealer blending out as you go along into existing body work, hit with color over needed areas blending as you go along into existing body work, hit entire area with 3 coats of clear to bring all of your hard work together and make the paint deep. 10 hours between a novice and a pro, most tools were provided by me the novice except the paint gun and body working hammers. So its very doable with time and patience. Thank you Arturo, you are an artist and a patient man my friend.
Moderator
07-01-2012, 04:38 PM
#6
It was early in the morning today when I put the trunk and bumper on, still have a few things to button up but you get the idea. I will have better pics in my build thread when I get the car finished. I still need to detail cut and buff the paint.
07-02-2012, 08:23 AM
#10
Better pic from this morning on my way to work. Still needs washed, it has primer dust all over it.
Last edited by c130aviator; 07-02-2012 at 11:25 AM.
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