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Interior: Install Subs and Amp without splicing existing wires

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Old Apr 1, 2011 | 01:09 AM
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Install Subs and Amp without splicing existing wires

First off, I know there is already two or three post on how to install subs and amps using the stock head unit. Second, I didn't really want to cut in to the existing wires as I personally feel that the sound system is great as it is. It just didn't have enough bass for me.

For my set-up, I have a Dual XOBP12D Subs and a Dual XIA3145 amp. You will also need the following parts:
Scosche Line out converter FIA-3A
Scosche 680 Watt 8-gauge amp wiring kit
16-gauge wire
22-gauge wire
Alligator clips with sheathing, preferably a red and black setup
Illuminated Switch
Subs
Amps
Two (2) 8-mm nuts i think. Local hardware store called them M6 nuts because it's metric
Mechanics wire
Electrical tape

Here is a picture of all the parts I used.



1) Cut 4 3 feet of the 16-gauge wire and splice both ends. On one end, connect the alligator clips to it.

2) Now connect the other end of the wires to the line out converter. OBSERVER POLARITY AND CHANNELS! A5 and A6 are the left channel. A7 and A8 are the right channel. A5 and A7 are positive. A6 and A8 are negative. Here is the line-out converter.




3) I used mechanics wire to hold the line-out converter to the rear seat release as this was the best location for me to have it out of the way and not hanging around anywhere.

4) Connect the left channel from the line-out converter to the metal tabs on the speaker. This is so you don't have to cut in to the original speaker wires. On the left speaker, yellow is positive. On the right speaker, teal or light blue is positive. Also turn down the gain on the input of the converter so you don't blow your speakers when you first turn on the subs.




This is the entire setup of the line-out converter. I took the pictures and wrote this after getting everything in.




Now on to the amp

5) Splice the ends of the positive and negative wires for the amp. OBSERVE POLARITY and connect them to the amp. Red positive, black negative. Depending on the amp kit you got, you may need to connect the battery terminal rings to the other end. This is a good time to do it.

6) Now connect the negative wire to the negative terminal of the battery. Then connect the positive wire to the positive terminal of the battery. This is where the two nuts come in handy. It saves you from having to unscrew the existing nuts on the terminal. It's also best to remove the carpet so you have an easier time working




Since the carpet is already removed, now is a good time to wire up that switch and the remote wire.

7) The remote wire that came with my kit was 12 feet so cut 12 feet of the 22-gauge wire. The wire I am using is speaker wire that I had around the house. Splice both ends. Connect one end with a terminal ring, and the other end with a flat male terminal (I think that is what it is called) that can fit over the switch terminals for a more secure connection. See the image below for what I mean and how to connect this switch. Your switch may be different. An illuminated switch is best so you know if the amp is on and don't end up with a dead battery. Use some masking tape or something to know which wire is the positive wire for the switch. Electrical tape the switch terminals it to keep it from shorting or shocking you



8) Place the switch in the center console by the e-brake. You may chose a different location though. Tuck the wires under the passenger side of the center console up to the back seat, then around the seat, behind the seat back pivot point, and in to the trunk.




9) Connect the positive wire to the positive terminal of the battery, then the negative to the negative, and the third wire (blue one in my case) to the remote of the amp. Your amp may look something like this.



10) Now route the RCA wires from the amp to the line-out converter. You may chose your own route. It's recommended that you keep the RCA wires away from the power wires to avoid noise.

11) Put the carpet back in making sure that no wires get tangled up or pulled. Also make sure that the amp is not underneath the carpet otherwise it may over heat.

12) Put your subs in, wire up the wires from the amp to the sub.

13) Turn on your radio and then turn the volume up to about 3/4 of the way.

14) You may notice that your subs are not working. Remember we turned down the gain on the converter earlier? Now go back to the converter and turn up the gain for both the left and right speakers. Starting to notice the bass now right? It's gonna be hard to judge, but turn up the gain to about 3/4 also to avoid distortion.

15) Roll down the windows, turn the radio up and enjoy. PM me with any questions.

Here are my subs.


Last edited by TommyP; Oct 6, 2012 at 09:22 AM.
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Old Apr 1, 2011 | 09:08 PM
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approved. wish i had this like 3 months ago lol
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Old Apr 2, 2011 | 12:24 AM
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Originally Posted by 07_silver balt
approved. wish i had this like 3 months ago lol
I'm sorry. At least you know now. Plus if anyone come to you asking how to do this, you can point them here.
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Old Apr 2, 2011 | 12:47 AM
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pmd i dont get what step 7 has to do with anything or what it even is
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Old Apr 2, 2011 | 12:53 AM
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Originally Posted by heathkidder
pmd i dont get what step 7 has to do with anything or what it even is
Sorry about that. I have fixed step 7 for you. It was to wire the remote wire to the switch so the amp would turn on. I have the stock head unit, which is why this step is needed.
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Old May 5, 2011 | 06:53 AM
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I cant find the converter, i found this Car Stereo Output Converter im guessing thats just a newer version of it?
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Old May 5, 2011 | 12:42 PM
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From: Altus AFB, Ok
so i would need a switch to turn on the amp?
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Old May 5, 2011 | 12:45 PM
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no you can run the remote wire from the amp to an empty fuse slot on the BCM power block that only has power when the key is turn to the on or accessory position.
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Old May 5, 2011 | 01:41 PM
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From: Altus AFB, Ok
thats what i thought. thanks
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Old May 9, 2011 | 12:41 AM
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Originally Posted by kgg5
I cant find the converter, i found this Car Stereo Output Converter im guessing thats just a newer version of it?
That is pretty much the exact same converter. You can use that one.

Originally Posted by 06cobalt racer
so i would need a switch to turn on the amp?
You can do it that way or how outtamymind suggested. I personally prefer the the switch so if you get tired of the bass, you can just turn it off without having to adjust the bass level on the radio.

I will have to update my posting because I found a wire that came with the amp. It allowed me to bypass the need for the converter box, plus it gets a lot more kick than with the converter box. I will update this when I get take pics of this method, plus a video comparison. I'm really happy that I had taken a video with the converter box before I returned it.
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Old Aug 21, 2011 | 09:48 PM
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From: bellevue ne
hey i did same set up with scosche 80wattt 2 channel lineoutput converter and it doesn't work. and i hooked it up to too 10s and an 1800watt amp any ideas
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Old Aug 27, 2011 | 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by 19scobalt
hey i did same set up with scosche 80wattt 2 channel lineoutput converter and it doesn't work. and i hooked it up to too 10s and an 1800watt amp any ideas
You might have to move the switch on the side of the converter to be at Line out. Also check all of your wiring as well making sure everything is well connected and seated. The converter could also be faulty. Post pics of your setup on here and I can see what might be wrong. If you want you can email me too at z062003vette@gmail.com if it is easier.
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Old Sep 20, 2011 | 11:22 AM
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UPDATE TO THIS!!!

Updated parts list:

Scosche Line out converter FIA-3A - (Not needed if your amp has a line converter built in) ((This is the same one, just a different model number. Could not find any great difference between the two: Car Stereo Output Converter))

Scosche 680 Watt 8-gauge amp wiring kit (Maybe be different depending on the type of AMP you have).

Illuminated Switch - This will be used to turn the AMP on and off. I recommend the switch since you will be able to have more control of when you want the bass. (Advance users: You may tap the wire in to another source, like the wipers since they will only come on with the car.)


Updated steps between step 1 and 2:

******************************
Your amp may have come with small adapter that will connect to the amp and have 5 wires. Two will be use for the right channel, positive and negative. Two for the left channel, again positive and negative. One ground wire which can be used to reduce noise. I do not have pictures of this, but look at the picture at step 9 and you will see a small plug to the right of the RCA wires. If you have an amp with this and the wire, you DO NOT need the Scosche Line out converter FIA-3A. You can skip to step 5 if your amp has a built in line converter, otherwise continue to step 2.
******************************
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 10:22 PM
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love your subs! where did you buy them and for how much?
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Old Sep 29, 2011 | 10:18 AM
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DUALS dude?? REALLY??

buy some real subs
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Old Sep 30, 2011 | 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Greek
love your subs! where did you buy them and for how much?
Got them from Best Buy back in 2006 on Black Friday. $300 total for the system and the install.

Originally Posted by BartSS
DUALS dude?? REALLY??

buy some real subs


The subs and amp aren't the point of this how-to dude. The wiring of it is the real point. Plus, I got what I could afford back in 2006, and I've been happy with them. Not gonna go spend the money on new subs. I just bought a 95 Vette anyway, all stock, an way louder that my sub system or any other one. Plus too much Bass at a young age is just gonna make you go deaf. Something I'm not looking to do.
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