VQ35DE

I also use the 7082 NAPA Filter and it is the best I have found for these engines to use with Mobil 1.

CobaltCpe

oh cool i used the same filter on my car and my car is running good now.

Dman

nope...takes about 6.5 qts of mobile 1.

oldCobaltNewb

So the bolt to drain it is 15mm??? when you look at the bolt its lefty loosey, right? i tried that and i couldn't get that stupid bolt off, i think i rounded it off now....FFFFFFF..........rustration

this seems easy as crap since im little and i can get to the oil filter easy.....any easy tips for getting that bolt out??????? again....... F

rnjmur

Yes it is counter clockwise when facing the bolt. if getting the bolt off from the front (facing the rear of the car) you will turn it clockwise (counterclockwise if you were facing the front of the car and looking at the bolt).

If you rounded it out you will need to get one of those tools for getting rounded bolts out otherwise you are going to have to take it somewhere to have it drilled out.

Yes, the bolt is a 15mm head. On my first oil change I bought the oil drain plug from CED that has the magnetic tip on it which is a 13mm head.

zillaguy07

hell with that noise....go to GM or wherever and get a repacement plug.....then just put a damn pair of vise-grips on the old one and spin it out....I've never heard of drilling out an oild drain plug...good luck to whoever gets that **** job, its not fun to try and drill thru a bolt, and then dig the remaining threads out...and then re-tap the hole.....on an aluminum oil pan....

tony2toness/sc

anybody know where i can get a gallon of 5w30 synt of royal purple for cheap i tried searching for it and i keep getting 15w40 synth whats the difference with the numbers

zillaguy07

different numbers are different viscosity (resistance to flow) basically, the higher the number, the greater its resistance to flow. the number before the "W" is the oils winter grade, or flow rate below zero. 5W30=5 weight at 0 degrees, 30 weight at normal engne temp. Straight 30 weight (usually 30 HD on the bottle) is 30 weight no matter what, but it gets even thicker at cold temps, since its not split viscosity

15W40 is diesel truck oil, i wouldnt put that in my car if I had to

395 plus

iTrader: (1)

Dont waist your time with royal purple. Get AMSOIL synthetic it has been proven the best in many independant tests and beside you can then go extended oil changes up to 1 year or 25000 miles and dont laugh I have an old 72 GTO with 175,000 mile running amsoil an no issues. I use it in every vehicle I have owned since and always get better fuel economy with it in.

For me each year:
It 2 napa gold filters and 5 quarts of AMSOIL 5w30

2 filters $9.66
5 quarts $40

total for a year 49.66

bbbevans89

i put 6.5 in my car and it didnt read so i put 7 in and it was at max so i guess im ok if not im not doing it again lol

07MONTECARLO_SS

you push the wrench towards the passenger side tire.

bbbevans89

yea that's how i loosened mine and yes its a 15mm

j.ho7

ok... for those people that say that you can go over 15,000 km per oil change... you better make sure you get an oil filter that is made for that. Regular oil filters are only rated to 5000km approx. i have taken oil filters off that people have had on for 15,000 and the filter has totoally degraded and is in little peices on the bottom of the filter, which means that the filter peices have potential of gettin into the motor plus the oil is no longer gettin filtered. so if your going to run synthetic for 15,000 kms. change the oil filter at 7000 km intervals is my recommendation. just thought i would put that out to everyone. and just so everoyne knows. both motors i took those degraded oil filters off of ran amsoil for 15,000 aprox. one motor is still running. the other isn't cause the camshaft seized.

eurochevy

ppl that think that it can do 15000 km are retarded...btw go to the regional sectoin i see ur from bc

and for gods sake plz no one listen to this guy . seriously god help u 25000 MILES for 1 oil change...wow

rnjmur

They have done studies showing that using a group 4 base stock you CAN go 20K - 25K km without changing your oil with no loss in viscosity or particle contamination. Of course you do have to change the filter every 5K - 7K km.

25,000 miles is a bit much. The highest they were able to run oil (including Amsoil) was about 15,000 miles before the oil viscosity began to break down. Going 25,000 is almost double that. I would say that to be safe, if you are going to run a synthetic oil more then 10,000 miles you should send it off to a lab to be tested every 1000 miles after 10,000 to check contamination and viscosity or else you are risking engine damage.

tomtom72

Hi. I know I'm a noob & don't post much. So this is a fwiw from a novice 08 Cobalt sport owner.

I would just like to offer up an observation on the 08/2.4 sport.....the #4 cyl intake runner is in the way of using a 1-1/4" shallow socket on the filter housing/retainer nut. You will have to use a 1-1/4" crow's foot to do your filter change.
I suppose that there is some special tool that you can buy; but if your are careful you can get away with the crow's foot till you track down said tool.

I'm not fluent in Cobalts, and I'm on the 'waiting list' at HelmInc.com for my FSM set, so I don't know if this applies to any other motor in the line up.....but for sure on an 08/2.4 you can't get the shallow socket on the filter retainer nut.

Cheers
Tom

MP81

iTrader: (2)

Hey! Thanks for the tutorial!

Just changed my oil, and this guide was very helpful!

Ahh, the joys of having a vehicle lift....

outtamymind

the shallow socket works on all the ecotecs.

MP81

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, you only need it to loosen the oil filter cartridge "holder" (for lack of a better term - I just got home from work, it's 1AM), then you can loosen it completely by hand.

blue06

great how to and very easy to do. Saved me time and money.

YellowBalt06

i was told by the dealer to only put 6 quarts of oil in my 2006 ss sc.. So do we do 6.5 or 6 quarts?

nghisus

Ok, so here's the deal on oil.

Amsoil, Mobil 1, and I believe a certain brand of valvoline use a real synthetic oil. Whereas everybody else like Pennzoil, Syntec, or Quaker State uses a hydrocracked oil.

The easiest way to check your oil is to do 1 thing. A TBN test, which tests to see if your oil neutralizes the contaminants in your oil. You do a base TBN reading, Amsoil for example starts at 12, the average value is 8. You check the oil TBN maybe monthly, once the value starts to drop below a certain threshold, your oil is no longer neutralizing the acids introduced into your system and you need to change the oil. I think the guys at work change there's around 3. That's really the advantage of a true or full synthetic is that it's more resilient to acidic contaminants.

Also, a nice test is the wear particle test allows you to see how many particles are floating around in your oil. It checks to see what size particles and how much of it is floating around in your oil. Pass a certain threshold, you need to change your filter.

The best part about a TBN is it's extremely easy to do. And if you change your filter regularly you don't have to waste a lot of money arbitrarily draining out all of your oil.

A word on filters. The lower the micron size you can filter out the longer your bearings will last period. GM used to put in a filter that only took out 10 microns and published a report in the same breath noting that 5 micron particles lead to premature bearing wear. The even showed a nice little graph showing how long an engine lasted based on the size of the wear particles. I think the engine with 5 micron particles had bearings that lasted a good while longer then the 10. It wasn't something arbitrary, it was 2-3 times I think, my memory gets fuzzy at times. I'll find the report and post it one of these days.

My next car I'm getting an Amsoil pre-oiler with the filter relocater and high filtration bypass filter. It's supposed to get stuff up to 3 microns. On top of that it eliminates dry starts by pre-lubing your engine before start up. They say the most damaging wear comes from dry starts which occurs between 200-300 times a year.

I love work. You learn so much

rnjmur

6.2 quarts

j.ho7

good info nghisus, thanks for the lesson

dasudevil

Awesome Found the post. I just did my first oil change on my '08. 16k miles. HELL YEA! Now thats what im talking about.

Ok i bought it used with only 10k miles on it. Changed the oil at 40% left.

Anyways, I was at AutoZone bout ready to purchase and remembered i need an Oil filter. Sales guy showed me the filter and thats when I basically returned everything. All I know is I was getting an oil change that day and did not have the net to find out what to do and that was not a normal filter i was used too.

That was a costly day. 60 bucks for Mobile 1 syn at walmart. Not too bad but really how professional are they???

This will be printed in color and posted in the garage for next time.

Thank you for this wonderful detailed post.