Detailing: Polishing 101 (How-To)
03-22-2008, 08:37 PM
#77
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I'm proud to say that the sanding.. or what I'm gonna do of it.. is done! Pictures will be up sometime tonight.
I've just gotta polish 'er up with the tripoli, white rouge, and liquid polish.. which I've still gotta find in a store haha.
After sanding to 2000 (220, 400, 600, 1000, 2000):
After tripoli and white rouge:
^^not very deep... yet
I've gotta run to the store to get the liquid polish. Be back with more pics shortly!
I've just gotta polish 'er up with the tripoli, white rouge, and liquid polish.. which I've still gotta find in a store haha.
After sanding to 2000 (220, 400, 600, 1000, 2000):
After tripoli and white rouge:
^^not very deep... yet
I've gotta run to the store to get the liquid polish. Be back with more pics shortly!
Last edited by NOS2006; 03-22-2008 at 08:41 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
03-22-2008, 09:47 PM
#79
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Here she is completely finished. Definitely not perfect nor near the depth of BlilBT's, but I don't think it's too bad for a first try. How can I get more depth, BlilBT?
03-22-2008, 10:42 PM
#80
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how do yall do the white rouge and tipoli? cause there like crayons do you just kinda color it on the metal or what i pratciced ona motor mount that i took out a while back today it was ok i can tell i didnt sand near enuff but anyway how do yall do the compounds?
03-23-2008, 12:46 AM
#82
Clean the poishing wheel off, run it across an edge, it will get out the old polish and ****. Then apply some rouge to the wheel while its spinning.
I've become quite good at this in the last week, I'm working at a machine shop and I have been polishing a lot of stainless steel, its much harder than the aluminum so the sanding/buffing takes longer, but it really looks like chrome when I'm done. Fun ****, but nasty work.
You aren't polishing enough, it will get plenty hot and you will see the fine scratches go away, giving you that nice chrome look. If you start to see scratches getting shiny and not going away, you need to go back and sand them out then work back down to at least 600 grit or finer.
I've become quite good at this in the last week, I'm working at a machine shop and I have been polishing a lot of stainless steel, its much harder than the aluminum so the sanding/buffing takes longer, but it really looks like chrome when I'm done. Fun ****, but nasty work.
You aren't polishing enough, it will get plenty hot and you will see the fine scratches go away, giving you that nice chrome look. If you start to see scratches getting shiny and not going away, you need to go back and sand them out then work back down to at least 600 grit or finer.
Last edited by ItalianJoe1; 03-23-2008 at 12:46 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
03-24-2008, 02:03 AM
#86
Sorta, but both buffers I use are kinda high speed, so I just touch the rouge to them for a bit and then go back to work on the metal. The rouge is what cuts the material, so you want plenty of it on the buffing wheel. Then you use the wheel to work it into the surface you are polishing. Hope that makes sense.
03-24-2008, 02:24 PM
#88
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you only need 1800 to 2800 total thats all my baldor buffer spins! Use the sewn cloth wheel to remove the surface scratches & then repolish with white rouqe!
By the way it looks really good for your 1st time!
Sorry took so long to reply been busy.I can make my Valve cover just as shinny with a drill or Baldor Buffer>> You just need a little practice!
look at the rpms of the buffers eastwood sells & you will see what I mean!
03-27-2008, 11:07 AM
#89
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Well, I should probably add this here.
If you are one of those people that is pissed off with having sore fingers from sanding the hard to reach spots in some of your projects (ie; the ribs on the M62), or don't like the complexity of sanding a hatched cylinder head.... check out something called greaseless compound. It's used just like the finer compounds for finishing, but packs a nasty bite!
It's available from 80 to 400 grit. I bought my kit from Caswell for $25.
Even if your not into using the greaseless compound, having a look into Caswell's website is great (they are even a VHT dealer!).
http://www.caswellplating.com/
If you are one of those people that is pissed off with having sore fingers from sanding the hard to reach spots in some of your projects (ie; the ribs on the M62), or don't like the complexity of sanding a hatched cylinder head.... check out something called greaseless compound. It's used just like the finer compounds for finishing, but packs a nasty bite!
It's available from 80 to 400 grit. I bought my kit from Caswell for $25.
Even if your not into using the greaseless compound, having a look into Caswell's website is great (they are even a VHT dealer!).
http://www.caswellplating.com/
03-27-2008, 12:11 PM
#90
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Thread Starter
Well, I should probably add this here.
If you are one of those people that is pissed off with having sore fingers from sanding the hard to reach spots in some of your projects (ie; the ribs on the M62), or don't like the complexity of sanding a hatched cylinder head.... check out something called greaseless compound. It's used just like the finer compounds for finishing, but packs a nasty bite!
It's available from 80 to 400 grit. I bought my kit from Caswell for $25.
Even if your not into using the greaseless compound, having a look into Caswell's website is great (they are even a VHT dealer!).
http://www.caswellplating.com/
If you are one of those people that is pissed off with having sore fingers from sanding the hard to reach spots in some of your projects (ie; the ribs on the M62), or don't like the complexity of sanding a hatched cylinder head.... check out something called greaseless compound. It's used just like the finer compounds for finishing, but packs a nasty bite!
It's available from 80 to 400 grit. I bought my kit from Caswell for $25.
Even if your not into using the greaseless compound, having a look into Caswell's website is great (they are even a VHT dealer!).
http://www.caswellplating.com/
06-21-2008, 02:27 PM
#92
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07-09-2008, 07:18 PM
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07-09-2008, 09:27 PM
#99
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