Cobalt SS Network - aftercooler pump rebuild

Considering that a new aftercooler pump is around 100 dollars, I just wanted to share how to get your pump working like new for between free and say..5 bucks. After I realized finally that my pump wasn't working, I ordered a new one. But in the mean time, I tore into my old one just for the heck of it. I quickly found that it was very simple to rebuild the pump and took me all of 30-45 minutes.Needless to say, i cancelled my order.

Just about the ONLY thing that can go bad in them is the brushes and here is my experience with going about replacing them.

1)The pump is basically a one time use/throw away pump and is not screwed together(at least on the concerning end). There are tabs on the main casing that are bent to overlap the "cap" and hold it down, the cap being the side the harness plugs into. Take a screw driver and pry the tabs back out. work the cap off with a screw driver as it is held in place still with the sealing o-ring. The more worn out the brushes are , the easier it is to slide the cap off.

2) Snip lead wires from the brushes and remove. you should be able to see here that you need a set of brushes approximately 1/4 inch *1/4 inch* 1/2 inch. Find some old generater/ alternator brushes of at least that size(you can find them in say your garage or ebay or from various electrical companies that may exist in your town). It is best to have found a set that has the lead wire molded into a corner rather than the rear/top/bottom. Flatten the face of the brush with the side of a bench grinder wheel then continue to knock the dimensions down using the bench grinder until you are satified with the fit. (they grind easily/takes very little time)

3)Slide a brush in and hold it back. take a drill with a bit about the size of a paper clip and drill through the casing and slightly into the brush. Slide paper clip into hole to keep the brush held back(this is needed so the brushes can clear the shaft bearing while re-installing the cap).Do the same for the other brush.

4) Resize both the new lead wire and the stub of the old lead wire to a size that allows just enough travel for the brush to slide forward as it wears. Solder the leads together. make sure the wires protrude very little from the cap as the motors moving parts will be close by once assembled. Do for both brushes.

5)Lube the o-ring and push the cap back onto the motor casing while taking care that the paperclip retainers stay in. After the cap is pushed on, pull the paperclips to release the brushes.

6) press tabs back over the cap, apply a dot of sealant to your drilled holes and reinstall.

hope this is useful to someone. it is very easy to do and I have about a month on my rebuilt pump still showing no signs of near future failure. After all, a brush is a brush and life expectancy should be comprable to that of a new pump

intercooler, aftercooler, pump, rebuild, not working