I'm new
 

Attachment 61844Attachment 61845Hello, I'm new here. In October of 2017 I bought a Red 2009 Cobalt SS turbo 4 door LNF F35 with 64,000 miles on it. I found it on the internet in Orlando Fl and bought unseen and had it shipped to Delaware. I love it. It's the fastest car I have owned, not that I have owned any fast cars, but all that matters is it makes me happy. It can break loose at 40mph in 2nd with 25psi boost. It had some mods when I bought, but all I can tell is the intake and exhaust mods. It would seem that 25 psi is much more than stock so I assume the calibration is different.

welcome

Very clean, welcome. Yes 25 would be a tune from somewhere.

Welcome

The hot side charge pipe is aftermarket with added BOV. Take a better picture of the turbo, might be able to tell which turbo is on there.

Welcome!

I need to put a clutch in it, I emailed ZZP customerservice but they haven't replied...I can only wonder why, I'm but not happy about it. Money isn't my first concern, durability is. Got any recommendations? Is the Excedy clutch worth the money? Will it need the TOB spacer from ZZP? I like Fidanza flywheels...would that with a stage 4 South Bend clutch be a good combo?

I ran a Fidanza a 86 Dodge Lancer turbo 2.2 and loved it.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cob...d782579f3.jpeg

I have no idea what turbo this is.

pics of my turbo to help ID it.
 

Does anyone know what turbo this is?

Hard to tell but looks stock to me

I second this assessment

Yep, me three
Do yourself a favor and get rid of those way too big worm style clamps and get T bolts on that charge piping. Factory intercooler?

Aftermarket Bpv on turbo or a block off for a Bov on charge pipe

Never mind I see other picture lol

I don't know what the stock intercooler looks like, the one on it seems big, and it blocks the lower drivers side radiator bolt. I found that out when I replaced the leaking stock radiator with the ZZP aluminum one.

clutch
 

I need to buy a new clutch, any recommendations?

GMPP clutch

I download the GM performance catalog and couldn't find it. What is the part number for GMPP clutch that fits an LNF F35, or who sells it? Being new and not knowing about these cars I am thankful for all the help.

Crateneginedepot will have it (last I heard the where on backorder) it will show it's for the LSJ but will work with your car LNF

Welcome to the site!
I also recommend the GMPP upgraded clutch

Fidanza and SB stage 4
 

Any opinions on the ZZP South Bend Stage 4 clutch? I bought that one based on ZZP recommendation and I added the Fidanza flywheel. It just arrived and hopefully by the end of the week I'll have time to put it in. It's been a busy month and no free time. How long should it take a 1st timer, Not my first clutch (I've done many over the years) but my first Cobalt and first time dropping a sub frame. Is a day enough time? I have a lift and screw jack to support the engine. Is it possible to bleed the clutch from the bleed screw with a rubber hose in a jar of DOT 3?

Clutch update
 

I finally got around to installing the new clutch & flywheel. I compared the flywheel thickness and found .090 difference. The steel flywheel that came out was .090 thinner than the new flywheel. That explains why I had a disengagement issue; the TOB didn't have enough travel for that much difference, furthermore besides the disengagement it would also inch forward despite clutch fully down, and the instant I started lifting my foot the clutch was grabbing. The old disk & pressure plate looked like they have many more miles left on them. My logic in buying the aluminum flywheel was to be able to replace the screw on friction plate with each clutch job and never loose thickness of the flywheel to avoid this problem. although the alum one cost twice as much money that will be offset with each future clutch job because the fiction plate is only $60 vs. $150 for a new steel flywheel. Anyway I've put about 40 miles on the new Fidanza and Southbend stage 4 and it works great. I have about and inch of pedal lift before it starts to grab and it doesn't bite very hard (easy to drive). It disengages great (with wheels in the air they stop turning in a couple seconds). And I found some Amsoil GL4 75w80 at the local Napa to protect the syncros. It shifts very smooth now too, no more issues with any gear. This was my first time dealing with a hydraulic TOB and it was a good learning experience and TOB travel limits. Never stop learning. Also, to bleed the clutch I used a glass jar half full of dot 3 and a rubber hose from the bleed screw to the jar - this worked good for me.

I do not recommend using any transmission fluid beside the OEM. I would recommend flushing that out and replacing with OEM fluid.

x2 on oem fluid. Not recommended to run anything else in these.

Do you know if anyone has any viscosity data and the additive or lack of additive package on the OEM fluid?

GL4 and GL5 oils
 

I called my local GM dealer and they only have GL5 fluid, we need GL4 in our transmissions. GL5 will wear away the brass syncros faster than GL4 because of the phosphor content. GL5 is for hard metals like a rear axle; while GL4 is for softer metals like brass syncros. GL5 bonds so well that when the parts move across each other and shear the oil off the GL5 pulls bits of brass with it. GL4 has about half as much Phosphor and shears more easily leaving the brass alone. The reason for 2 different specs is soft metals and hard metals.

Where in Delaware are you? I'm up in Bear.