nitrous tuning ???
 

so, lets say i'm gonna get a wet shot of nitrous goin with a remote bottle opener. aaaaand, lets say for the sake of running in no/e, that i've got it wired up to the cc switch at the top of the clutch pedal. so, foot off the clutch, switch is on and nitrous is spraying. push the clutch in, switch is off and nitrous isn't spraying. is there a way to change to tune only when the ecu reads 100% from the tps to adjust for the nitrous??

its gonna work like this. pull up to the staging lights. bottle still closed. light the prestage bulb, hit the button and open bottle while clutch is all the way in and purge the system getting nitrous up to the solenoid. ease forward and light stage bulb and brake keeping the clutch in foot. first of the three yellow .500 light comes on. wide open on the two step. green light, off the clutch, switch is depressed, nitrous sprays. take off, shift...push the clutch in for a NLS, nitrous stops spraying. put it in second and let the clutch out, nitrous sprays again, same for 3rd gear.... end of the run going through the traps stay in the gas past the 1320 mark and hit the botton to close the bottle while letting off the gas. nitrous is now off and tune is back to normal cause i'm not at WOT.

sound good? now i just need to figure out a way to tune it for nitrous only at WOT

also. im going to run a switch inline with the cc switch. so it would be like a switched switch haha. but that way when the car is off or i'm in gear and just normal driving, not at the track and wide open, i can have the cc switch turned off. that way the solenoid isn't open EVERY time the clutch is engaged, just when i'm at the track.

You don't need to tune only WOT for nitrous if you are only running it at the track...

Just tune as you would normally, then switch back over to a non-nitrous tune for street duty.


In reality, the only difference is slightly less timing on bottle. 2-3 degrees should be all you need. A/F's you want the same as off bottle, because you can adjust your a/f's while spraying through jetting.

I would keep it switched off until you are at least on the 2-step, you don't want to slip and let the clutch out too much while staging and blow it up. People in line hate when you oil down the staging pad.

Also, you WILL have wheelspin problems with the immediate spray, or you will break shit. Either way, good luck.

:twothumbs

sounds very complicated and hptuners probably doesnt support it, are you trying to cheat exsoccer? lol

don't worry. i won't be spinning :) hahaha and no i'm not cheating. a lot of guys running nitrous in no/e class use pedal position to control their nitrous. the rules say you can't use a nitrous controller. but it doesn't say you can't control the nitrous ;)

just race at the track for the hell of it. stop trying to mod ur car around the rules of a class. do it for ur power goals.
also u will spin like no other if u spray in 1st

gotcha, but from what i understand you want the ecu to switch tunes at wot and im almost positive hptuners wont support that. BUT vince said back in july he was going to start writing code on a select a tune feature for the lsj's, im not sure if he has or even will write the code but getting in contact with him would be your best bet. On the other hand why dont you just get a wot switch for the nitrous along with a window switch?

you kind of HAVE to build the car around the rules if you're going to be racing in a class.... i finished 3rd in points in '09 in a class where 12.50 and slower was the ET break. this year i'll be racing in no/e where the ET is 9.99 and faster in the 1/8.

cause the class is no/e (no electronics). nitrous controllers, delay boxes, throttle stops, etc aren't allowed. you can either run it with a button. or use the loop hole in the rules and run the switch off one of your pedals. and if you're a clutch car its best to do it on the clutch, that way you're not spraying while shifting

just go to the next class. who cares about winning the class just beat ur own times.
thats just me tho, i think doing class racing seriously is just retarded

hmm interesting im reading the rules for no/e on cdraonline and it says two and three step limiters are prohibited but on a clutch driven car a single stage limiter is allowed, what does that mean exactly? isnt the wot box you have a 2 step?

the N2mb launch control is not actually a two step. a two step is a high and low side ignition limiter. low side being a launching rpm and high side being a normal redline. this is to prohibit the use of msd 6al, 7al2, etc type ignition systems in a no/e class. the n2mb launch control is just a one stage, or step, limiter and has no effect on any other rpm controls.

btw drew...heads up racing is fun and all. but the real money is in bracket racing. it doesn't cost much to compete, and if you know where to go you can find payouts of around $250 for just making it to the quarters.
and the "next class" is superpro. and i really don't feel like racing tube chassis cars and dragsters with more money invested in their suspension and electronics than my car is worth.

when i go i just compete against myself and other ppl there with the same car. but if thats wat u like to do more power to u. u still going turbod

i go and compete against myself too. but i also like to win some money. i profited about 3k last year just racing. and i say profit because thats after i deduct all the entry/gate fees, methanol, and gas to get to the track. :)

this year should be more.

thanks for the explanation soccer goodluck man win some races so you can go turbo already lol

haha yeah hopefully i'll be able to. last year only 19 guys competed in no/e. and in throphyII the class i was in, there were about 15 people on any given race day. and i still managed 3rd.

well those are some good odds then, whats the average payout in no/e?

Entry Fee $55, Buy Back $20
Payouts:

0 - 20 cars: Winner, Runner-up and Semis will be paid percentage of entry fees as follows: 55% Winner, 25% RU, 10% to each in Semis

20 - 39 cars: $500 winner, $200 runner-up, $65 semis, $40 qtrs.
40 cars+: $750 winner, $300 RU, $125 semis, $65 qtrs., $25 eighths

thats for my local track. i'll also be following CDRA and maybe some trips up to heartland park topeka.

payouts are hpt are:
Entry Fees: Super Pro $60.00, Pro $50.00, Sportsman $45.00, Street $25.00, Pro
Pro: Win $1100.00 RU $400.00 Semi. $150.00 Quarters $50.00

pro at HPT is the same rules as no/e

thats some good money if you can at least be runner up at each one and heartland has some damn good payouts for winners

yeah. reason for that though is because hpt has sooooooo many fuckin sponsors haha.
the sportsman class there, which is basically a bracket race for your average daily drivers has payouts as follows:
Sportsman: $500.00 RU $200.00 Semi. $100.00 Quarters $40.00

for only a $40 entry

how far is that place from where you are it sounds more like the promise land then the heart land lol

its about 3.5 hours from me. in topeka, ks. i'm in bartlesville, ok. the local track is about 45minutes from me

well that blows, i got firebird about ten minutes away ill have to look into bracket racing there

I don't agree with the OP's plan. Too complicated. Use a simple WOT switch and don't activate the arming switch until you get into 2nd gear @ WOT. Basing it off the clutch will lead to a mistake and an unpleasant boom.

I called it.

read the thread chris. haha

you guys are so scared of nitrous its funny lol. i'm not asking for questions about my system. i'm asking about the tuning.

theres only three switches in my system. one of which is an on/of switch..for a switch. one switch is the bottle opener. and the other control the solenoid. thats it....

I didn't read shit haha. I ran spray.. I'm not scared of it.. Just my honest opinion. Who knows? Good luck w/ it. I'd just never run it that way.

bump for how to TUNE for it. not for how to set it up

titties.