This is what you need to run nitrous - LOOK HERE!
02-06-2008, 11:42 AM
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This is what you need to run nitrous - LOOK HERE!
There are alot of questions here about what you need to run nitrous on your car. There are many, many topics on this already but people somehow fail to find them. 
So I thought I would create a thread for 2.0, 2.4, and 2.2 users to cut down on the repeat posts...
1) WET Nitrous Kit - Recommended but not required
You can run a dry nitrous kit but it is hard to tune for unless your current tuning option has the ability to switch between a "street" and "nitrous" tune and/or make fuel/timing adjustments at the time the activation switch is turned on. ie: GM Stage 3 ECU
Popular Nitrous Kits:
Zex Wet Nitrous Kit (P/N - 82021)
NX (Nitrous Express) Wet Nitrous Kit (P/N - 20919)
NOS (Nitrous Oxide Systems) Wet Nitrous Kit (P/N - 05134NOS)
Dynotune Wet Nitrous Kit (P/N - 604)
2) Window Switch - Recommended but not required
A window switch controls the point in which nitrous is activated and deactivated. For example, if you set your window switch to open at 3200RPM and close at 6300RPM then the nitrous will ONLY activate in between this RPM range and when you are WOT (assuming you have a WOT/TPS switch). This provides a little extra security when spraying to prevent you from bounching off the rev limiter while spraying or spraying too early.
Popular Window Switches:
Dynotune Window Switch (P/N - 711)
Zex Window Switch (P/N - 82085)
MSD Digital RPM Window Switch (P/N - 8969)
3) Bottle Warmer - Highly Recommended
Probably one of the most important nitrous accessories you can have. This will keep your bottle pressure constant to ensure that you are getting the most power from your nitrous system. When making back to back pulls under nitrous, your bottle pressure will drop which will effect the strength of the shot. Using a bottle heater will prevent this from happening by warming the bottle until the desired pressure is reached. Typically you will want to spray with a bottle pressure between 900-1100psi to ensure optimal power.
When purchasing a bottle heater, stay away from temperature controlled bottle warmers. These bottle warmers are inconsistent and do not help maintain an optimal bottle pressure. You will want one that is pressure controlled.
Popular Bottle Warmers
Dynotune Bottle Warmer (P/N - 100)
NOS Bottle Warmer (P/N - 14169NOS)
4) Pressure Gauge - Highly Recommended
A nitrous pressure gauge will allow you to see the current pressure of your bottle. Without one of these, you are basically spraying in the dark. You have no way of telling whether your bottle pressure is too high or too low and if it IS too high can lead to a blown motor if you decide to spray. This is also required for setting the pressure switch with a pressure controlled bottle warmer. These can be mounted on the bottle or remote mounted, anywhere that you can keep an eye on it is recommended.
Popular Pressure Gauges:
Zex Bottle Mounted Pressure Gauge (P/N - 82005)
NX Bottle Mounted Pressure Gauge (P/N - 15509)
NX Remote Mounted Pressure Gauge (P/N - 15531)
Dynotune Remote Mounted Pressure Gauge (P/N - 007)
5) 1 Step Colder Spark Plugs - Required
When running nitrous, you must run colder spark plugs in combination with 91/93 octane. This is a safety measure to prevent the chance of detonation under spray. Most 2.0 guys here are likely running 1 step colder plugs anyway if you are running some form of a stage tune.
Popular 1 Step Colder Plugs - 2.0:
NGK BKR7E (P/N - 6097)
Autolite 3922 (P/N - 3922)
Popular 1 Step Colder Plugs - 2.2/2.4:
NGK LTR6IX-11 (P/N - 6509)
6) Nitrous Purge - Optional
A nitrous purge is intended to be used to keep fresh nitrous in the lines to guarantee a strong shot. Whether this is something you would like to invest in is up to you. I personally only use this to empty my lines after use.
Popular Purge Kits:
Zex Nitrous Purge Kit (P/N - 82010)
NOS Nitrous Purge Kit (P/N - 16030NOS)
Dynotune Nitrous Purge Kit (P/N - 301)
7) Nitrous Blowdown Tube - Optional
If for some reason your bottle pressure reaches a high enough pressure to rupture the safety disk on the bottle (ie: leaving the bottle heater on), this tube will route the nitrous outside of the vehicle. SOME race tracks require these if your bottle is in the passenger compartment, check with your local track first to verify.
Popular Blowdown Tubes:
Dynotune Blowdown Tube (P/N - 909)
Nitrous Outlet Blowdown Tube (P/N - 860-010345)
8) Remote Bottle Opener - Optional
These openers connect to the top of your bottle and allow you to open the bottle via switch. Pretty self explanitory.
Popular Remote Bottle Openers:
Dynotune Bottle Opener (P/N - 400)
NOS Remote Bottle Opener (P/N - NOS-16058NOS)
Zex Remote Bottle Opener (P/N - 82009)
Okay so now you have a complete list of what you have available for a complete nitrous kit. If you are buying everything brand new, expect to spend around $1000 for a setup.
Also, just to add to this post...I have read alot of posts on here about "how much can I spray?" For the 2.2 and 2.4, anything 75 shot and below is considered safe and has been done many times over. You could probably get away with a 100 shot on a progressive setup and pulling a couple degrees of timing but how long that will last I cannot answer.
On the 2.0, it all depends on your current pulley setup...I have seen up to a 75 shot on a 2.7" pulley on a stock motor. I would consider anything 50 shot and below w/ 2.8" or larger pulley safe for the 2.0. One thing you may want to think about if you're considering nitrous is how many degrees of timing you are running off the bottle. If it is fairly advanced, you may want to step back to stock timing just to be on the safe side and work your way up (or down, depending on shot size) from there...aka, do some fine tuning.
Now, if you still have questions about your setup after thoroughly reading this then feel free to post.
You're Welcome
So I thought I would create a thread for 2.0, 2.4, and 2.2 users to cut down on the repeat posts...1) WET Nitrous Kit - Recommended but not required
You can run a dry nitrous kit but it is hard to tune for unless your current tuning option has the ability to switch between a "street" and "nitrous" tune and/or make fuel/timing adjustments at the time the activation switch is turned on. ie: GM Stage 3 ECU
Popular Nitrous Kits:
Zex Wet Nitrous Kit (P/N - 82021)
NX (Nitrous Express) Wet Nitrous Kit (P/N - 20919)
NOS (Nitrous Oxide Systems) Wet Nitrous Kit (P/N - 05134NOS)
Dynotune Wet Nitrous Kit (P/N - 604)
2) Window Switch - Recommended but not required
A window switch controls the point in which nitrous is activated and deactivated. For example, if you set your window switch to open at 3200RPM and close at 6300RPM then the nitrous will ONLY activate in between this RPM range and when you are WOT (assuming you have a WOT/TPS switch). This provides a little extra security when spraying to prevent you from bounching off the rev limiter while spraying or spraying too early.
Popular Window Switches:
Dynotune Window Switch (P/N - 711)
Zex Window Switch (P/N - 82085)
MSD Digital RPM Window Switch (P/N - 8969)
3) Bottle Warmer - Highly Recommended
Probably one of the most important nitrous accessories you can have. This will keep your bottle pressure constant to ensure that you are getting the most power from your nitrous system. When making back to back pulls under nitrous, your bottle pressure will drop which will effect the strength of the shot. Using a bottle heater will prevent this from happening by warming the bottle until the desired pressure is reached. Typically you will want to spray with a bottle pressure between 900-1100psi to ensure optimal power.
When purchasing a bottle heater, stay away from temperature controlled bottle warmers. These bottle warmers are inconsistent and do not help maintain an optimal bottle pressure. You will want one that is pressure controlled.
Popular Bottle Warmers
Dynotune Bottle Warmer (P/N - 100)
NOS Bottle Warmer (P/N - 14169NOS)
4) Pressure Gauge - Highly Recommended
A nitrous pressure gauge will allow you to see the current pressure of your bottle. Without one of these, you are basically spraying in the dark. You have no way of telling whether your bottle pressure is too high or too low and if it IS too high can lead to a blown motor if you decide to spray. This is also required for setting the pressure switch with a pressure controlled bottle warmer. These can be mounted on the bottle or remote mounted, anywhere that you can keep an eye on it is recommended.
Popular Pressure Gauges:
Zex Bottle Mounted Pressure Gauge (P/N - 82005)
NX Bottle Mounted Pressure Gauge (P/N - 15509)
NX Remote Mounted Pressure Gauge (P/N - 15531)
Dynotune Remote Mounted Pressure Gauge (P/N - 007)
5) 1 Step Colder Spark Plugs - Required
When running nitrous, you must run colder spark plugs in combination with 91/93 octane. This is a safety measure to prevent the chance of detonation under spray. Most 2.0 guys here are likely running 1 step colder plugs anyway if you are running some form of a stage tune.
Popular 1 Step Colder Plugs - 2.0:
NGK BKR7E (P/N - 6097)
Autolite 3922 (P/N - 3922)
Popular 1 Step Colder Plugs - 2.2/2.4:
NGK LTR6IX-11 (P/N - 6509)
6) Nitrous Purge - Optional
A nitrous purge is intended to be used to keep fresh nitrous in the lines to guarantee a strong shot. Whether this is something you would like to invest in is up to you. I personally only use this to empty my lines after use.
Popular Purge Kits:
Zex Nitrous Purge Kit (P/N - 82010)
NOS Nitrous Purge Kit (P/N - 16030NOS)
Dynotune Nitrous Purge Kit (P/N - 301)
7) Nitrous Blowdown Tube - Optional
If for some reason your bottle pressure reaches a high enough pressure to rupture the safety disk on the bottle (ie: leaving the bottle heater on), this tube will route the nitrous outside of the vehicle. SOME race tracks require these if your bottle is in the passenger compartment, check with your local track first to verify.
Popular Blowdown Tubes:
Dynotune Blowdown Tube (P/N - 909)
Nitrous Outlet Blowdown Tube (P/N - 860-010345)
8) Remote Bottle Opener - Optional
These openers connect to the top of your bottle and allow you to open the bottle via switch. Pretty self explanitory.
Popular Remote Bottle Openers:
Dynotune Bottle Opener (P/N - 400)
NOS Remote Bottle Opener (P/N - NOS-16058NOS)
Zex Remote Bottle Opener (P/N - 82009)
Okay so now you have a complete list of what you have available for a complete nitrous kit. If you are buying everything brand new, expect to spend around $1000 for a setup.
Also, just to add to this post...I have read alot of posts on here about "how much can I spray?" For the 2.2 and 2.4, anything 75 shot and below is considered safe and has been done many times over. You could probably get away with a 100 shot on a progressive setup and pulling a couple degrees of timing but how long that will last I cannot answer.
On the 2.0, it all depends on your current pulley setup...I have seen up to a 75 shot on a 2.7" pulley on a stock motor. I would consider anything 50 shot and below w/ 2.8" or larger pulley safe for the 2.0. One thing you may want to think about if you're considering nitrous is how many degrees of timing you are running off the bottle. If it is fairly advanced, you may want to step back to stock timing just to be on the safe side and work your way up (or down, depending on shot size) from there...aka, do some fine tuning.
Now, if you still have questions about your setup after thoroughly reading this then feel free to post.
You're Welcome
Last edited by IonNinja; 03-19-2008 at 12:39 PM.
02-07-2008, 04:10 PM
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I am currently converting to a fuel line return setup because I want to run a 75 wet setup along with my 2.6 and 60's and have it dyno tuned.... do you think I will be safe? I plan on getting all of the "highly recommened" things plus a little more Thanks!
Mike
Mike
02-07-2008, 04:23 PM
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sorry when writing that I was thinking about stage 2 only guys without smaller pulleys...which I know there are a handful of guys here running.
I guess I'll update that to stock timing just to be on the safe side...
I guess I'll update that to stock timing just to be on the safe side...
02-07-2008, 04:27 PM
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Considering how many guys have blown their motors on blower alone at that pulley size (forgetting possible tuning errors) I would stay away unless you are running a built motor or have plans to build one.
02-07-2008, 04:29 PM
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you don't need a bottle heater.
i know of a local company that can supply you with a kit that can use 99% of the nitrous in the bottle, maintain 1000psi all the time. and use ice bags in the summer to maintain pressure
i know of a local company that can supply you with a kit that can use 99% of the nitrous in the bottle, maintain 1000psi all the time. and use ice bags in the summer to maintain pressure
02-07-2008, 04:34 PM
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lol thats the misconseption of most people running nitrous...slap it on and call it good..then they wonder why there watching there car burn on the side of the freeway
02-07-2008, 04:38 PM
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where is this magical kit?
his wasn't tuning related though, he just had some very very bad luck with a window switch
i'm running his EXACT setup right now actually...*knock on wood*
Last edited by IonNinja; 02-07-2008 at 04:38 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
02-07-2008, 04:45 PM
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Just a quick question on running Nitrous on a 2.2...
If anyone knows, running lets say a 50 wet shot on a stock motor, how many runs do you think it wil take before you are replacing or fixing anything on the block?
Cuz I am curious about running Nitrous, and I wanna rule out all the factors before I ruin my car! haha
If anyone knows, running lets say a 50 wet shot on a stock motor, how many runs do you think it wil take before you are replacing or fixing anything on the block?
Cuz I am curious about running Nitrous, and I wanna rule out all the factors before I ruin my car! haha
02-07-2008, 05:24 PM
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I've Seen It before but can't find it. It's a Kit that attaches to the Nitrous and adds Hyrdogen/Nitrogen to keep a constant persure and Eliminate drop off.
Any Idea's?
Any Idea's?
02-07-2008, 05:27 PM
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the only thing that can not be had is the check valve. this concept has been around for years. just no one but him went to market with it in a kit form for the end user to get a hold of
02-07-2008, 05:56 PM
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i don't really get how it works other than it seems like a bottle pressure regulator that makes sure you get every drop of nitrous out of your bottle.
that would be nice though, I don't I don't get that now
Just a quick question on running Nitrous on a 2.2...
If anyone knows, running lets say a 50 wet shot on a stock motor, how many runs do you think it wil take before you are replacing or fixing anything on the block?
Cuz I am curious about running Nitrous, and I wanna rule out all the factors before I ruin my car! haha
If anyone knows, running lets say a 50 wet shot on a stock motor, how many runs do you think it wil take before you are replacing or fixing anything on the block?
Cuz I am curious about running Nitrous, and I wanna rule out all the factors before I ruin my car! haha
i really doubt you will have to ever worry about your motor on a 50 shot honestly unless something goes wrong with your setup. regular nitrous use isn't likely to effect your motor anytime soon...
i've been running a 75 shot on a stock motor since nov/dec 05
Last edited by IonNinja; 02-07-2008 at 05:56 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
02-10-2008, 09:53 PM
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Quick question. I have the GM stage 3 and you did not mention the dry shot from Dyno tune. Anyway Can I run the 50 dry shot and the 100 octane mode at the same time or just the 93/94 octane mode and the nitrous. Because I heard somewhere that it's not good to advance the timing that the ECU does to compensatre for the 100 octane and run the nitrous?
02-11-2008, 07:23 AM
#23
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uses compressed air, or co2. a local guy came up with many moons ago. lots of people in kc run it because he is local to us.
the only thing that can not be had is the check valve. this concept has been around for years. just no one but him went to market with it in a kit form for the end user to get a hold of
the only thing that can not be had is the check valve. this concept has been around for years. just no one but him went to market with it in a kit form for the end user to get a hold of
02-12-2008, 02:49 PM
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Quick question. I have the GM stage 3 and you did not mention the dry shot from Dyno tune. Anyway Can I run the 50 dry shot and the 100 octane mode at the same time or just the 93/94 octane mode and the nitrous. Because I heard somewhere that it's not good to advance the timing that the ECU does to compensatre for the 100 octane and run the nitrous?
I guess the first question would be how different is the timing between 93 octane and 100 octane mode? its never really recommended to advance timing under nitrous but if you've got higher octane I would assume you've got a little room to play with.
wouldn't hurt to try it right?
(except for the possible blown motor)
