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New Rotated Trans Mounts
These new mounts rotate the engine and trans to align the axles. This does two things, it eliminates wheel hop and it helps your axles/trans case survive. Unlike poly mounts these are far less harsh. You will have 3 options when ordering.
Stage 1 will use a rotated front mount with a spacer under the stock rear mount. This is for sub 300whp cars. There will be no vibrations from the mounts. Stage 2 will be the same as stage 1 but it will use a lnf rear mount with spacer inplace of the lsj mount. stage 3 will use both a front and back rotated mount setup and still use the spacer. This is for the avid drag racer, these will have slightly more vibration then stock but nothing close to poly. Pricing stage 1. stage 2. stage 3. There will also be a core charge on these of $100 a mount. These have to be sold installed as shown because the mounts are precisely clocked. Rear mount http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5.../mounts008.jpg Both mounts with spacer http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...ntsarms001.jpg Both mounts with spacer under mount http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...ntsarms002.jpg These will be ready to ship for NOV.24 |
i dont get it :lol: my polys rock.
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Originally Posted by mkulrey13
(Post 3101580)
i dont get it :lol: my polys rock.
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Originally Posted by mkulrey13
(Post 3101580)
i dont get it :lol: my polys rock.
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so i dont get where they mount to. the 3 triangle pattern
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so if I don't have mounts that I can send to you and want the stage 3 then you are talking about 600 before tax right?
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I've had these mounts in my car for a months now, and no other traction modification out there can compair to them. At my shop I now have a nice big circle laid out rubber that I'm quite proud of and I know for a fact would not be possible without them. Having been modifing my '04 Redline since well before the majority of people had any idea it existed, I've tried just about everything, so, I know far better than most what is out there and how well it works. This is the BEST solution to wheel hop out there. Hands down. It should be, as these cars are the guys GM had address the problem on the Cobalt Cup Race cars, afterall. John's knowledge and Josh's backing make for a easy buy from a great group of guys.
Thus my rating is A+ |
Originally Posted by Dead Zen
(Post 3101601)
so i dont get where they mount to. the 3 triangle pattern
Originally Posted by Deathscythe
(Post 3101613)
so if I don't have mounts that I can send to you and want the stage 3 then you are talking about 600 before tax right?
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here is a vid of the mounts installed with a 4k launch on 235 wide tires, had i still been using my poli mounts i would most likely have broken something at my power levels.
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/w...ion_199247.htm |
so your using front lower control arm bushings in the mount and the only real difference is the spacer?
so really the guys with poly just need the spacer? correct? |
no the mounts are offset.... ditch the poly... I got my set last week, just don't have time to install sine I have to take a bunch of shit out of the way to get to the rear mount
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Originally Posted by crazybrew609
(Post 3101650)
so your using front lower control arm bushings in the mount and the only real difference is the spacer?
so really the guys with poly just need the spacer? correct? |
ok say i have a press and can rotate the mount my self, then all i would need is the spacer for the rear mount?
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you guys keep coming out with new stuff that actually works. I'll wait for these to come out and it should be awesome if they actually cut down on the vibes throughout the car. Paul, you need to hurry up and tell me about these so I can get a set next month.
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Originally Posted by crazybrew609
(Post 3101650)
so your using front lower control arm bushings in the mount and the only real difference is the spacer?
so really the guys with poly just need the spacer? correct? |
Originally Posted by 06blackg85ss
(Post 3101652)
no the mounts are offset.... ditch the poly... I got my set last week, just don't have time to install sine I have to take a bunch of shit out of the way to get to the rear mount
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ahhhhh ok i see now so the front one is off set... so your only doing the 2 mounts.. the top mount doesn't get affected by the movement?
it worries about the amount of power those lower control arm bushings can handle... i see those things break everyday at work but the kit deff looks pretty well made.. 300+ tho seems a little steep but deff seems to be something useful for sure |
So Josh, do these work well with lowered cars?
I assume the stage 3 are for those of us with heavily modified cars? |
so with stage 1 is it just a front mount and the spacer for the rear mount??? what is the difference between an lsj rear mount and an lnf mount??? i do like the fact that your using a smaller solid rubber bushing instead of poly. is that actualy a control arm bushing??? if so i guess that works great as if its ever damaged the bushing isnt hard to get.
ive been loking at rotating the engine by building different mount brackets, i never thought of doing it this way as i dont have the machining capabilities to do that. my only concern is what about the upper mounts??? will the upper engine mount and tranny mount survive being twisted??? what about aftermarket upper mounts??? with a urethane upper mount unable to twist, it this going to put too much stress on the mount brakets or the tranny case??? one other question, how much difference does this make with the height of the axle off a given point??? im interested to know how much closer my driveline angle will be to what it was stock.
Originally Posted by crazybrew609
(Post 3101691)
it worries about the amount of power those lower control arm bushings can handle... i see those things break everyday at work
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Too much $. I'll stick with my polys.
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Originally Posted by Sharkey
(Post 3101721)
so with stage 1 is it just a front mount and the spacer for the rear mount??? what is the difference between an lsj rear mount and an lnf mount??? i do like the fact that your using a smaller solid rubber bushing instead of poly. is that actualy a control arm bushing??? if so i guess that works great as if its ever damaged the bushing isnt hard to get.
ive been loking at rotating the engine by building different mount brackets, i never thought of doing it this way as i dont have the machining capabilities to do that. my only concern is what about the upper mounts??? will the upper engine mount and tranny mount survive being twisted??? what about aftermarket upper mounts??? with a urethane upper mount unable to twist, it this going to put too much stress on the mount brakets or the tranny case??? one other question, how much difference does this make with the height of the axle off a given point??? im interested to know how much closer my driveline angle will be to what it was stock. |
Originally Posted by uwishuhdmyecotec
(Post 3101674)
ok say i have a press and can rotate the mount my self, then all i would need is the spacer for the rear mount?
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Originally Posted by Smarty Art
(Post 3101739)
Too much $. I'll stick with my polys.
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Originally Posted by Sharkey
(Post 3101721)
so with stage 1 is it just a front mount and the spacer for the rear mount??? what is the difference between an lsj rear mount and an lnf mount??? i do like the fact that your using a smaller solid rubber bushing instead of poly. is that actualy a control arm bushing??? if so i guess that works great as if its ever damaged the bushing isnt hard to get.
ive been loking at rotating the engine by building different mount brackets, i never thought of doing it this way as i dont have the machining capabilities to do that. my only concern is what about the upper mounts??? will the upper engine mount and tranny mount survive being twisted??? what about aftermarket upper mounts??? with a urethane upper mount unable to twist, it this going to put too much stress on the mount brakets or the tranny case??? one other question, how much difference does this make with the height of the axle off a given point??? im interested to know how much closer my driveline angle will be to what it was stock. i myself arent concerned about the bushings breaking. ive used controll arm bushings for mounts before. in this application the bushing always have a load across the whole bushing. in a controll arm they have a lot of twisting forces on them and thats why they rip. |
Fast, I threw you a PM.. Cobalt 2.4's?
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