Sh3itskees

No I'm not shooting in auto, I'm in manual. No offense taken, that's the kind of criticism that I'm looking for. Do you have any recommendations as to what I'm doing wrong? I generally tinker with ISO depending on lighting and tend to not mess with aperature. Is that something I should change? I generally like to shoot around ISO 400 or so... Like I said, any recommendations would be geratly apprecaited. I also have considered getting a circular polarizer, I just don't know which one to get. I think they're great for effect, and it's a great way to protect the lense as well. Do you have any recommendations on which polarizer to get?

I did that with some of them on purpose because I liked the way they look. I just edited on iPhoto, I don't have PS or anything like that yet. What are the things you normally alter when you're editing photos?

Rissa

Wheels may not be everyone's cup of tea, but they are nooooooooooooooooooooot cheap.

ULWizSS

iTrader: (5)

A decent one will cost you around 80 and up. Most shoot in 100-200 outside since its less noise the higher you get. I would attempt to bracket shoot the same picture on a tripod and go through your ISO range. Then take a peek at them in processing so you can see the difference between them all. ISO is only a way to compensate for a lack of light so outside in the sun 100-200 will generally be where you want to be. Each shooting situation is different though.


Are you shooting in RAW over JPG as well?

Sh3itskees

Sharp as in good, or sharp as in eyesore sharp?

Ok that's what I've heard, but I've also heard people saying that the $20 ones will work just as well and blah blah blah. In other words, I didn't want to waste my money and get ridiculed for it lol. Yeah I will definitely give that a shot. So shooting at ISO 100-200 is optimum then? I always thought less noise=better... I obviously still have some learning to do. I'm assuming you just mess with aperature and shutter speed then at ISO 200?

I was shooting in RAW but my mac is a piece of **** and doesn't read RAW images, it'll only let me edit the .jpg files so I just started shooting in the highest quality .jpg the d5100 will shoot in. I figured if I can't edit the .nef file I may as well stop taking up all of that space on my SD card.

RKRamos

iTrader: (11)

I usually leave ISO as low as possible when shooting. The lower the ISO the less noise you have in pictures. Bumping your ISO up at night will help keep your shutter speed up, but you run the risk of having noise in your pictures. Usually when I post edit I will adjust my exposure. I try to leave the temperature of the picture alone. I'll sometimes mess with the clarity and vibrance of my photos also.

Gelladuga69

iTrader: (4)

I think he got mixed up and meant it's more noise the higher the ISO you use. Yes, generally less noise = better.

iPhoto is able to do RAW editing. What version of iPhoto are you using? I edit in Aperture, the next step up from iPhoto.

http://support.apple.com/kb/PH2417

deebsr6

when you drive a lambo I dont think you can get away with cheap wheels.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/deebsr6/8378876606/http://www.flickr.com/photos/deebsr6/8378876606/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/deebsr6/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/deebsr6/8377798197/http://www.flickr.com/photos/deebsr6/8377798197/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/deebsr6/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/deebsr6/8378859852/http://www.flickr.com/photos/deebsr6/8378859852/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/deebsr6/, on Flickr

ULWizSS

iTrader: (5)

Editing JPG vs RAW is nowhere close to the same as well. I would suggest you get Lightroom or CS6. And a 20 polarizer id def not the same as a expensive one.

Sh3itskees

Yeah I try as well, as low as possible. I just normally end up setting it on 400 or so and leaving it and messing with ISO to adjust brightness of the picture. I'll change that though. I was always under the impression that the higher the ISO the worse the noise would get and figured 400 was a good setting to be at. I'll go lower though and see what I can do down in that range as well.

I was under this impression as well. Maybe just a typo or something.

That's funny that you linked it to iPhoto '11. I always get those popups when I open up iPhoto about iLife '11 and ignore it because I didn't think it would offer anything different aside from a different skin for the app and make me pretty much have to relearn all of the settings. I'll check it out when I get home though. I'm also planning on upgrading to snow leapord so I can get PS Lightroom.

ForsakenOutlaw57

Sharp's never an eyesore in my book .

As far as shutter, with digital cameras, ISO 200 is the sweet spot. Once you get a program like Aperture or Lightroom that'll read the NEF files. You could, in the meantime, switch the camera to RAW + FINE JPEG this way you get both and you can go back and edit when the time comes that you have the software.

Sh3itskees

I realize editing a .jpg isn't the same as editing RAW. I wasn't aware that iPhoto could edit RAW so I didn't use it. It never let me do it berfore, but apparently there's an update I don't have that allows it. Editing RAW actually edits the characteristics of the photo and doesn't just add a filter to it, if I've understood the information I've read correctly. I plan on getting Lightroom. I don't want CS6 yet, I don't think I need it. About the polarizer, I have no personal experience with it so I was going off of word of mouth and I don't like spending my money off of "word of mouth", so I did without. Now that I've heard from multiple sources that it's not the same, I will invest my money in a nice polarizer.

Gelladuga69

iTrader: (4)

Check out like Hoya or B+W. I have a couple of those in various filter sizes.

Sh3itskees

Ok, I'll definitely remember that, ISO 200. I'll set my camera on there and keep it there unless I HAVE to change it.

As far as the bold text, which is an all around better program? I would like to only have to get 1 and not have 2 programs that do the same thing. Personal experience with both would be greatly appreciated as well lol.

ULWizSS

iTrader: (5)

Yep I use both hoya and B & W They have my vote for sure.

Sh3itskees

Ok will do. Thanks for the recommendation!

ULWizSS

iTrader: (5)

Lightroom for me along with CS6. The other IMO are not something professional photographers use.

Gelladuga69

iTrader: (4)

On your Mac, I would go with Aperture and Pixelmator for a real cheap alternative to Adobe products.

I use Aperture and Photoshop CS6, but I barely use PS. Only for heavy editing.
Pixelmator is a real nice and cheap alternative to Photoshop.

I used Lightroom CS6 on my Mac and I wasn't fond of it. I like the flow of Aperture a lot better.

Sh3itskees

That's the same way I felt about it, I'll have to get myself a copy of Lightroom ASAP then. Or maybe I'll try aperature first. I'll do some more research before pulling the trigger. I'm not going to get CS6 just yet. Do you use it for anything other than removing booms from the photos?

ULWizSS

iTrader: (5)

I use lightroom more than anything.

kdub1492

iTrader: (8)

My buddy just downloaded C6 and Lightroom, is going to put it on my computer in the next couple days...very excited to start playing with it!

ForsakenOutlaw57

Lightroom is my primary but I use a bunch of stuff by Nik Software so I can't say that I use only one. As for your ISO setting don't be afraid to go lower or even a little higher. Once you get past ISO 400 though you'll start seeing grain and definitely past ISO 800.

Sh3itskees

Ok for sure, I will keep that in mind when I'm taking shots. Thanks for all of the valuable info guys, I really appreciate it.

DSmastery

iTrader: (5)

cleannn

07MetallicSC

iTrader: (16)

deebsr6 more pictures of your car, i could look at it all day.

Pedobear

iTrader: (37)