Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

I never did that on any of mine. I broke the block before rings butted/pistons broke.

patooyee

How much boost?

Since propane goes in as a homogeneous mix with the air, I'm not sure I'll be able to get the cooling effect of deliberately running rich AFR. I feel like it's a good use of time. Once I have the head off I'm just an oil pan away from doing it. I wasn't going to do it before I was changing heads but it seems like cheap insurance now.

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

I ran up to 21PSI boost on a stock LE5.

patooyee

I bet that was fun! How much hp you estimate that was putting out?

Any other pointers, tips, tricks, or products I should put in while I have it apart? Pistons? Trying to keep this budget-friendly but maybe there's something affordable?

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

I dynod on 20PSI twincharged and it made 324whp/349wtq but I believe It was pulling ignition timing on the dyno although I wasnt logging.

If you wanted to freshen it up you could order stock rings for $100 and do a ball hone on the cylinders. Im sure youll be replacing the rod bearings...

patooyee

I hadn't planned on replacing any bearings. My block only had 75,000 miles on it when I pulled it and it was running great. Trying to get out of this for as little as possible ...

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

Rod bearings are cheap insurance but do as you wish. I was just suggesting things you could replace while youre in there.

patooyee

Is there a specific brand that is trusted? I will look into cost ...

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

I use ACDelco, clevite would be fine too.

patooyee

Did not realize they were so cheap. Yeah, I'll probably do those, too.

patooyee

Are the rod bolts studs / bolts TTY like everything else or can I re-use?

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

I think GM claims TTY. Theres an arp bolt I think will fit stock rods but ive never tried it.

patooyee

LNF gap is bigger than LE5 gap according to Alldata. I guess I'll just open my rings to LNF specs.

patooyee

Getting back on this after a long break. When boosting, what am I supposed to do with the small PCV orifice between the middle intake ports? I looked back where we discussed this once but we didn't seem to come to a conclusion. In stock form there would be vacuum on that port from the intake, so it's a controlled PCV burn. But under boost you would be charging the PCV system through it, which I don't think is a great idea? Block it off? Don't worry about it?

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

In the past, I never worried about it and it always seemed fine. When I get my car running again, im going to have the orifice blocked off and run an external pcv line with a check valve so the boost cannot enter the crank case.

patooyee

I'm trying to order some parts and forgot to measure the size of the coupler required at the turbo charger outlet. Does anyone happen to know? Do you stay that size with the charge piping to go larger to the TB?

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

Youre using the k04 right? I believe the outlet is 2" or 2.25" and most people run 2.5" charge pipes.

patooyee

It's a GT2871R made by BNR Supercars.

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

Probably best to just give them a call. I dont want to tell you the wrong thing.

patooyee

I measured it. It's 2". The inlet measures 2.36" though. So do I get a 2.25" or 2.5" coupler for the inlet?

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

If it measures OD 2.36, I would use a 2.25. It will be right but it's better from a holding boost perspective.

patooyee

The 2.36 measurement is the turbo inlet. No boost there.

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

i think stretching a 2.25 would seal better than trying to clamp down a 2.5" IIRC, I used a 2.25" on the k04 inlet. I know youre not usig a k04, but I think your turbo is based off of one.

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

Missed that, assuming your running MAF pre turbo you still want a good seal

patooyee

Haha, so I know ya'll are going to think I'm insane, but here's the plan I'm working on right now. I've already got the 2.2 head swapped onto the 2.4 block to eliminate VVT along with everything buttoned back up and engine reassembled. I will be running a propane mixer at the turbo inlet (It's similar to a carburetor, works at any angle, doesn't have a throttle body.) I've had BNR put a carbon seal in my turbo so that running fuel through it won't contaminate my oil. I'll be using Microsquirt to control ignition as well as a Ford 5.0 IAC just to be cool. (I don't really need computer-controlled idle, but it's something that will be neat to incorporate into the propane system, which does have a tendency to idle lower when the engine is cold. If I can't get it to work or hate it for some reason, I'll just disconnect it and rely on the old-school idle screw.) I'll fab an adapter plate to mate the Ford 5.0 TB to the 2.4L intake and run a BOV pipe to between the turbo and mixer. I never wanted to run an intercooler because it is just more crap to cram into a tiny package and I don't ever drive long distances, so I've decided to run Snow Performance water injection as well to keep the pistons cool. Right now I have the stock injectors and rail in place with nothing connected to simply to plug the holes in the head. I may someday do something different there, I don't know. It's a simple solution that works but also a mental hang-up. All this work to eliminate injection, still have the injectors on there.

There will be no MAF sensor. Microsquirt will utilize the stock cam sensor, (Only for sequential ignition. If I wanted to run batch ignition I could eliminate it.), stock crank sensor, the stock coils, stock ECT sensor, and a wideband O2.